Volufiline is gaining considerable attention as a topical alternative to fillers, not just for the face but also the breasts and even the buttocks. This is in no small part down to social media, and particularly TikTok, with endless videos showcasing supposed volume changes from simple at-home use. It is exciting, but is there anything to back up these bold claims? In this article we explore what Volufiline actually is and probe the evidence for whether it works. We also review the best way to use it and how it compares with existing alternatives.
What is Volufiline and How Does it Work?
Volufiline is a cosmetic ingredient developed by the company Sederma and patented in 2013. Sederma created it as a topical option for a fuller look in areas like the breasts, buttocks or face without procedures. At the time, cosmetic injectables were still relatively inaccessible. It did not unseat injectables or surgery, though, and largely faded from view. There has since been a social media revival, likely in response to falling interest in injectables in favour of a more “clean girl” aesthetic. Creators are again suggesting that Volufiline can deliver visible volume changes from daily application.
Volufiline itself is a blend of a lightweight moisturising base and an extract from the Anemarrhena asphodeloides plant. This extract contains sarsasapogenin, which gained early attention in laboratory studies for its potential effect on fat cells. These studies suggested it might encourage fat cells to store more lipids and so get bigger. This fuelled the narrative that a topical cream could create a gentle filler-like effect. However, critics argue that real skin biology makes this hard to believe. The key issue is that cosmetic ingredients like Volufiline generally cannot travel beyond the surface, because the skin barrier is very effective at keeping things out. Without reaching the dermis or the fat beneath it, a product cannot affect fat cells or create structural volume.
What Does the Evidence Show?
Despite the hype, there is very little clinical evidence for Volufiline. The most cited study is impossible to find, even after searching individual databases and the manufacturer’s website. Everyone in the blogs and magazines references it but never links to it. This suggests it was not peer reviewed and was instead published as a white paper. Based on circulating accounts, the study was funded by the manufacturer and looked at breast application in a small group of participants. It found that a cream containing 5% Volufiline produced a modest 2.2% increase in breast volume after 56 days compared with the untreated side. That is not a meaningful change and certainly does not support the claims.
Other studies have since shown improvement in lip plumping, skin ageing and under-eye hollows. The limitation of most of these is that their size and design weaken the strength of their findings. This aligns with the known limitations of cosmetic topical treatments, which simply cannot penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. Based on the evidence available, Volufiline is unlikely to meaningfully influence structural tissues in the face or body. As with hyaluronic acid, any improvement in wrinkles, brightening or skin quality from Volufiline is far more likely to come from hydration. This gives skin a softer feel and smoother appearance.
What is Volufiline Used For?
You can find Volufiline in face and body serums or creams, mainly positioned as shaping and plumping treatments. As the evidence shows, though, it remains a cosmetic ingredient that cannot create structural changes. Any effects are limited to surface hydration and softness rather than actual volume. Its main marketed uses are:
- Breasts: Brands sell it as a cream for subtle breast enlargement.
- Buttocks and hips: Brands market shaping creams to increase contour and augmentation.
- Face: Serums containing Volufiline target cheek plumping and wrinkle smoothing.
- Under eyes: Serums and creams use it to plump under-eye hollows and brighten dark circles.
- Lips: You will find Volufiline in plumping balms.
Who Might Benefit from Volufiline?
If you accept that Volufiline does not do what the marketers claim, and is instead a superficial, temporary skin booster, then there are some benefits. The best way to use it is as a moisturising product to boost hydration. In hydrating masks, creams or serums, it can give skin on the face, neck or hands a quick pick-me-up. This makes it look smoother and more radiant whilst providing a smooth base for makeup. It is also useful in lip-plumping products to improve the appearance of the lips. Where it is probably a waste of time and money is if you are looking to augment or contour your face or body.
Who Should Avoid Volufiline?
Due to its limitations and lack of adequate research, Volufiline is not suitable for everyone. It is probably not worth your while if you fall into any of these groups:
- Sensitive or reactive skin that may be prone to irritation.
- Pregnancy or breastfeeding, due to insufficient safety data.
- People expecting noticeable volume enhancement from a topical product.
- Anyone trying to treat structural issues such as hollowing or contour loss.
How Do You Use Volufiline?
If you decide to try Volufiline, it is best to think of it as a supportive ingredient rather than a stand-alone treatment for volume loss. As a general rule, apply it to clean, dry skin. Avoid using it on irritated or broken skin, and stop if redness or sensitivity develops. Most products recommend once or twice daily application, but this varies with strength and the rest of your skincare routine.
Volufiline is a moisturising product, so layer it mindfully with the rest of your routine. As a general rule, it pairs best with ingredients that improve hydration or surface texture:
- Hyaluronic acid: Enhances hydration and smoothness.
- Humectants: Ingredients like glycerin or panthenol increase water retention and soften the skin.
- Ceramides or squalane: Ceramides support the skin barrier whilst squalane improves suppleness.
- Peptides: Can help boost hydration and firmness over time.
What are the Alternatives to Volufiline?
As we keep saying, although Volufiline can soften and hydrate the skin, it cannot change its structure. The treatments below act directly on the skin cells and tissues responsible for support and shape:
- Hyaluronic acid dermal fillers: These injectables can temporarily restore or enhance volume and contour features.
- Biostimulatory treatments: Injectable skin boosters and microneedling encourage collagen production for gradual improvement in firmness and elasticity.
- Retinoids: Over-the-counter products and stronger prescription retinoids strengthen the skin, smooth wrinkles and improve texture.
- Niacinamide: Helps improve skin barrier function and brightens the skin.
- Antioxidants: Protect the skin, boost collagen production and improve brightness.
- Surgery: If significant body contouring or shaping is needed, procedures like liposuction, fat transfer, implants and face lifts may be the only option.
Is Volufiline Safe?
Volufiline is generally well tolerated, but long-term safety studies are lacking. Its main distributor sells it wholesale to beauty companies, so the consumer product comes from a variety of brands. The biggest concern is that many products containing it are sold through online marketplaces and small retailers with variable quality control, where concentrations are rarely disclosed. Worse still, some formulations may not contain genuine Volufiline, which makes results and safety hard to anticipate. If you do wish to use it, it is worth taking a few precautions:
- Purchase from a reputable brand.
- Read the product label for usage instructions and potential side effects, which may include allergy and irritation.
- Patch test first, especially if you have sensitive skin.
- Avoid applying these products to broken or irritated areas.
- Seek medical advice before using it if you have an underlying skin condition like eczema, rosacea or psoriasis.
The idea of Volufiline is appealing, but the scientific evidence does not support the dramatic claims circulating online. That does not mean it is useless, though. In the right circumstances it can subtly soften skin and improve hydration. What it cannot do is structurally change the skin and underlying soft tissues. Luckily there are evidence-based ingredients and in-clinic treatments that can help increase collagen production, tighten and plump the skin. As always with beauty, take all claims with a pinch of salt, do not expect miracles, and know that the best path comes from using the right products for your skin consistently.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skincare treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as tretinoin and hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
