Obagi Guide

Obagi Medical is one of the most known medical skincare brands in the world. Founded by Dr Zein Obagi in the 1980s, the range is built around a small number of scientifically-backed actives. These are delivered through structured multi-product systems. In the UK, the brand is available through aesthetic clinics, pharmacies and authorised online sellers depending on the product.

We used to provide Obagi systems through our old physical clinic. Whilst this remains one of the most premium brands, we’ve since moved to offering personalised compounded skincare instead to give our patients better targeting at a lower cost. However, Obagi remains a legitimate and effective option for many people. This guide explains how each of the main Obagi systems works, what’s in them, who they suit and alternatives. Please note, we no longer use Obagi products. We’ve kept this guide updated as we believe the public deserve clear, evidence based information about all of their options.

What is Obagi Skincare?

Obagi is a collection of skincare systems (multi-product routines) each designed around a specific skin concern. They also provide a number of standalone supporting products that you can use alongside these systems or your own skincare routine. The brand’s reputation rests on three things. These are the use of prescription-strength actives like tretinoin and hydroquinone in some systems, the step-by-step protocol the patient follows and professional supervision. Broadly speaking, the Obagi range breaks down into three multi-product systems and a set of separate products. The three Obagi systems are:

  • Obagi Nu-Derm (Rx and Fx versions): This is their flagship hyperpigmentation and anti-ageing system. Built around either prescription hydroquinone (Rx version) or arbutin (Fx version) as the brightening agent alongside acid exfoliation.
  • Obagi C System (C-Rx and C-Fx versions): This is the antioxidant and brightening range. Built around L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) with either prescription hydroquinone (C-Rx) or arbutin (C-Fx) as the brightening component.
  • Obagi Clenziderm M.D.: This is the acne system which centres around salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.

Whilst you can buy individual products from each system on their own, the recommendation from Obagi is to use the whole kit. Obagi also produce a range of standalone products that you can use on their own or layer alongside the main systems. The most popular examples of these are:

  • Obagi Tretinoin and Retinol: Always sold as separate products which you purchase alongside the kits. Obagi Tretinoin Cream is the prescription retinoid (and comes in 0.025%, 0.05% or 0.1% strength). Obagi Retinol comes in 0.3% or 1% strengths and is the over the counter alternative for milder skin renewal.
  • Obagi Professional-C Serums: Standalone vitamin C serums available in 10%, 15% and 20% L-ascorbic acid strengths, with versions designed for sensitive skin and skin of colour.
  • Obagi Elastiderm: This features as an eye cream and serum as well a face and neck product. The key feature of the Elastiderm range is that it contains a bi-mineral complex to target fine lines, elasticity and crepiness.
  • Obagi Hydrate and Hydrate Luxe: Daily moisturisers which you can layer into any skincare routine. Hydrate is the standard daily option and Hydrate Luxe is the richer cream for dry skin or overnight use.
  • Obagi Nu-Cil: A lash and brow conditioning serum using peptides and biotin. It is distinct from prescription bimatoprost containing lash serums like Latisse.

Beyond the main systems and standalone products, Obagi also have a number of newer launches and clinic only treatments that round out the range. These include the recently launched Nu-Gen Cellular Renewal Serum, the Rebalance Skin Barrier Recovery Cream, the premium Suzan Obagi MD sub-range, the Nu-Cil BioStim Scalp Serum for hair density, a dedicated sun protection range and a Lip Therapy Duo. For in-clinic use, Obagi offer the Blue Peel Radiance, a chemical peel based on lactic, salicylic and glycolic acids. They also offer the Skintrinsiq facial treatment platform which combines exfoliation, extraction and infusion of Obagi serums.

Across all of these, the common thread is that Obagi delivers familiar dermatology actives through standard formulas and protocols. What differs is the active ingredient, the structure of the protocol and whether the product is for at home use as part of a system, on its own or as an in-clinic treatment.

Obagi Nu-Derm System

The Obagi Nu-Derm System is their most famous range and probably what most people mean when they refer to “Obagi”. It targets hyperpigmentation, melasma, age spots, dullness, redness and the early signs of skin ageing. Nu-Derm comes in two versions in the UK:

  • Nu-Derm Rx (POM): Contains prescription 4% hydroquinone as the brightening agent. Available in the UK by prescription only, through authorised Obagi clinics that offer it after consultation with a doctor, dentist or nurse prescriber.
  • Nu-Derm Fx: Contains non-prescription arbutin as the brightening agent. Available over the counter through one of the Obagi UK partner clinics and registered online sellers.

Both systems can be used to treat the same concerns and the kits contain seven products. The Rx version is more potent and tends to be used for moderate to severe hyperpigmentation and melasma. Initial results may be visible from 6 to 8 weeks. The Fx version is gentler and better for sensitive skin, but typically takes 16 to 24 weeks to deliver noticeable results.

The full Nu-Derm protocol involves seven products applied twice daily over 12 to 24 weeks. The exact formula varies depending on whether your skin type is normal/dry or normal/oily, but the core routine typically includes:

  • Cleanser: Gentle Cleanser for dry skin or Foaming Gel for oily skin.
  • Toner: Prep step that balances skin pH after cleansing.
  • Clear (Rx) or Clear Fx: The brightening step containing hydroquinone (Rx) or arbutin (Fx), used morning and evening.
  • Exfoderm or Exfoderm Forte: The exfoliating step using phytic acid (Exfoderm) or lactic acid (Exfoderm Forte).
  • Blender (Rx) or Blend Fx: A second hydroquinone or arbutin containing brightening step used in the evening.
  • Hydrate: The daily moisturiser for mornings and evenings.
  • Sun Shield Matte SPF50: For daily UV protection.

Patients are also typically also started on a separate retinoid (either retinol or tretinoin) by their clinician to layer alongside Blender or Blend Fx in the evening routine. The retinoid is not part of the Nu-Derm kit so you have to buy it separately.

In practice, Nu-Derm works because of three things happening at once. The retinoid speeds up skin cell turnover and increases collagen production. Hydroquinone or arbutin suppresses melanin production through inhibition of the enzyme that makes it. The exfoliants speed up the resurfacing process. As such, Nu-Derm is best for:

  • Moderate to severe hyperpigmentation (Rx version) including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, age spots and sun damage.
  • Mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and early ageing (Fx version) for people who can’t or prefer not to use hydroquinone.
  • Melasma as part of a structured short-term treatment course (typically Rx).
  • Photoaged skin with combined hyperpigmentation, fine lines and texture concerns.
  • Patients prepared to commit to a 12-24 week protocol with multiple steps morning and evening.

That said, Nu-Derm has some real limitations. The protocol is complex (seven products as well as a retinoid applied in a specific sequence twice daily). The hydroquinone strength is fixed at 4% in the Rx version regardless of your skin type, tolerance or response. The combined cost of all the full sized products plus the retinoid is typically £500-700 for the initial course, with maintenance products needed afterwards. As the formulas are fixed, there is little flexibility to adjust the routine mid-course to accommodate your skin’s response without buying additional or different products.

Obagi-C System

The Obagi-C System is the brand’s antioxidant and brightening range that is built around L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C). The kit only contains 5 products but like Nu-Derm, it comes in two versions in the UK:

  • Obagi-C Rx System: Contains prescription 4% hydroquinone plus L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C). Available by prescription only through partner Obagi UK clinics.
  • Obagi-C Fx System: Contains 10% L-ascorbic acid plus arbutin. Available over the counter through authorised sellers.

The protocol follows the same general structure as Nu-Derm (cleanser, toner, active serum (mornings) or lotion (evenings) and sunscreen (mornings). The vitamin C day serum and night lotion which also contain either hydroquinone (Rx) or arbutin (Fx) do all the heavy lifting. Almost always, retinol or tretinoin is also added as a separate product to boost the benefits. The Obagi-C System is best for:

  • Early to moderate skin ageing with mild hyperpigmentation, dullness or fine lines.
  • Patients who want antioxidant protection as a core part of their routine.
  • Stepping up from over-the-counter skincare to a structured skin care routine.
  • Maintenance after Nu-Derm to extend results without the intensity of the full protocol.
  • Patients who want hydroquinone-based brightening (Rx version) without the seven step Nu-Derm complexity.

Like Nu-Derm, the C System has the same fundamental constraints. Firstly, the protocol is fixed and so the vitamin C and brightener strengths do not adapt to the patient. A full course of either version and the retinoid typically costs between £400-500.

Obagi Clenziderm M.D. System

The Clenziderm M.D. System targets acne. It is a three product system available by prescription through authorised Obagi UK clinics. It is built around salicylic acid (a BHA that exfoliates and unclogs pores) and benzoyl peroxide (an antibacterial that kills P. acnes bacteria and reduces inflammation). The Clenziderm protocol involves three steps applied morning and evening:

  • Daily Care Foaming Cleanser: A light foam wash containing 2% salicylic acid plus menthol to clear pores and exfoliate the skin.
  • Pore Therapy: A toner containing 2% salicylic acid to further refine pores and increase exfoliation. Applied with a cotton pad after cleansing.
  • Therapeutic Lotion: A lightweight acne treatment containing their solubilised form of 5% benzoyl peroxide for deeper follicular penetration.

For optimal results, Obagi recommend using the Clenziderm system alongside a separate prescription retinoid (such as tretinoin or adapalene) for at least 8-12 weeks. Some users may see significant reduction in breakouts and oiliness within 2-4 weeks of regular use. In general, Clenziderm is best for:

  • Mild to moderate inflammatory acne with congested pores and inflamed spots.
  • Oily and combination skin that can tolerate benzoyl peroxide.
  • Patients who want a structured acne system with only the most essential actives.

However, Clenziderm has notable limitations as a complete acne treatment. The system itself does not include a retinoid, so patients seeking the full benefit need a separate prescription. There are no anti-inflammatory antibiotics like clindamycin, which can make a meaningful difference for inflammatory acne. Nor is there an anti-androgen agent like spironolactone or clascoterone for hormonal acne. The protocol is also rigid with the same three products regardless of whether your acne is comedonal or inflammatory. It also doesn’t address scarring, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or erythema.

For mild to moderate inflammatory acne in oily skin, Clenziderm can work well, particularly when combined with a retinoid. It is less effective for more complex acne, including hormonal acne, post acne dark marks or acne needing multiple treatment angles.

Alternatives to Obagi

Obagi is far from the only good skincare option for hyperpigmentation, ageing and acne. If you’re considering Obagi but want to weigh up other approaches, the main alternatives in the UK fall into five broad camps:

  • Off-the-shelf prescription products: Branded or generic prescription medicines like tretinoin (Retin-A, Aknemycin Plus), adapalene (Differin), tazarotene, Treclin (clindamycin + tretinoin), Duac (clindamycin + benzoyl peroxide), Epiduo (adapalene + benzoyl peroxide), Tri-Luma (hydroquinone 4% + tretinoin 0.05% + fluocinolone) and Pigmanorm (hydroquinone 5% + tretinoin 0.1% + hydrocortisone). These are off-the-shelf single prescription products. They are typically cheaper than Obagi systems and very effective for the specific concerns they’re licensed for. However, as they’re standard products it is not possible to customise the treatment for your skin. Also, several of these (e.g. Tri-Luma, Pigmanorm) are short term treatments for 3-6 months at a time and not long-term solutions. All these treatments are also usually only available through dermatologists or private GPs.
  • Personalised compounded prescription skincare: Custom-made creams and gels that combine prescription-strength actives (e.g. tretinoin, hydroquinone, arbutin, tranexamic acid, niacinamide, clindamycin and spironolactone) into a single product or two-step routine tailored to your specific skin. The combination of actives, strengths and protocol are all tailored for each individual patient. Treatments are then made by a compounding pharmacy. This option offers greater personalisation and often at a lower price-point than Obagi. These are generally available from private dermatologists who compound prescribe or specialist telemedicine platforms like City Skin Clinic.
  • Other luxury skincare brands: Brands like SkinCeuticals, ZO Skin Health (founded by Dr Zein Obagi after he left Obagi Medical), Environ, AlumierMD and Medik8 all offer over the counter products at a similar price and quality to Obagi’s non prescription items. Most share Obagi’s strengths such as proven actives backed by clinical research. They also share similar limitations including fixed-strength, multi-product routines and premium pricing.
  • Subscription skincare services: Dermatica, Skin + Me and a few other UK platforms offer once a day compounded prescription creams through a monthly subscription model. They usually offer greater flexibility and a lower price point than Obagi. However, there isn’t the personal one-to-one clinician patient relationship you get with some Obagi partner clinics, private dermatologists or other telemedicine platforms.
  • In-clinic procedures: Chemical peels, microneedling, laser treatments and skin boosters can address some of the same concerns as Obagi systems. However, they require clinic visits and don’t replace daily topical skincare.

Each of these has a place. The right path for you depends on what concerns you’re treating, how bespoke you want the approach to be, your budget and how much complexity you’re willing to take on day to day.

At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about custom skincare. We offer safe and effective custom skincare treatments using ingredients like tretinoin, hydroquinone, azelaic acid, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, clindamycin, spironolactone and others where appropriate through our online skin clinic. Our doctors treat acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma, rosacea and skin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.

This article is for informational purposes and does not constitute medical advice. Treatment decisions about prescription-strength skincare should be made in consultation with a licensed medical professional after a full skin assessment. Always use SPF 50 sunscreen daily when using prescription actives like tretinoin and hydroquinone and discuss any pre-existing conditions, allergies or medications with your doctor before starting any new skincare regimen.

Frequently asked questions

It depends on the system. The Rx versions of Nu-Derm and Obagi-C contain 4% hydroquinone and are prescription only (POM) in the UK, available through authorised Obagi stockist clinics after consultation with a doctor, dentist or nurse prescriber. The Fx versions of Nu-Derm and Obagi-C and the Clenziderm M.D. System are non-prescription and can be purchased through Obagi UK partner clinics and registered online sellers. Tretinoin, when used alongside Nu-Derm, is always prescription only.

The Rx version contains prescription-strength 4% hydroquinone as the brightening agent and is more potent. The Fx version contains non-prescription arbutin as the brightening agent and is gentler. Both can treat the same concerns, but the Rx version is more effective for severe or stubborn pigmentation and tends to produce visible results within 6 to 8 weeks. The Fx version is more suitable for sensitive skin and typically takes 16 to 24 weeks to produce noticeable results.

The Nu-Derm kit itself does not include tretinoin. Tretinoin (or another retinoid) is prescribed separately by your doctor and added to the evening routine. Accessing the full Nu-Derm protocol typically involves both the Obagi products and a separate retinoid prescription.

The non-prescription Obagi products (Nu-Derm Fx, Obagi-C Fx, Clenziderm M.D., standalones) can be purchased through licensed Obagi UK partner clinics and registered online sellers. The prescription Rx versions and any separately prescribed retinoid require consultation with a prescriber. Always check for Genuine Obagi verification, as counterfeits do circulate.

A full Obagi Nu-Derm course typically runs 12 to 24 weeks. The C System is usually used for 12-16 weeks before transitioning to a maintenance phase. Clenziderm M.D. typically produces visible results within 1 to 2 weeks but is intended for ongoing use to prevent recurrence.

It comes down to personal preferences and individual needs. The ingredients are effective and the protocols are well-structured. However, the rigidity of the fixed-strength multi-product systems is a real limitation. Personalised compounded prescription skincare uses the same active ingredients but adapts them to your specific skin, often delivers better results, is simpler to follow and costs significantly less.

Yes, with proper supervision. Obagi has specifically designed its clinical research protocols to cover all six Fitzpatrick skin types, which is a real strength of the brand. However, hydroquinone-containing systems (Nu-Derm Rx, Obagi-C Rx) carry a risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation if used incorrectly, particularly in darker skin tones. Treatment should be doctor-supervised. Compounded prescription skincare allows for safer customisation, including the use of tranexamic acid, arbutin and azelaic acid tailored to individual skin tone.

Nu-Derm is the more intensive system, used alongside a separately prescribed retinoid for moderate to severe pigmentation and ageing. The C System is built around vitamin C and is designed for milder concerns or for maintenance. Both come in Rx (hydroquinone) and Fx (arbutin) versions.

Yes. Particularly Nu-Derm Rx can cause significant initial irritation, redness, peeling and dryness during the first 4-6 weeks as the skin adjusts to tretinoin and hydroquinone. This is expected. Severe or prolonged irritation should be discussed with your prescriber. The Fx versions tend to be gentler. Compounded prescription treatments allow the strength of actives to be customised from the outset to reduce irritation while maintaining efficacy.