Acne

Acne is one of the most common skin conditions in the world. It affects most teenagers at some point, and a growing number of adults, especially women. Acne happens when pores become blocked with oil and dead skin cells, which leads to spots, blackheads and whiteheads. It is an inflammatory condition, so it can range from the odd breakout to widespread, painful spots that risk scarring. Acne is treatable, though the right approach depends on the type and how severe it is. In this guide we explain what acne is, what causes it, the different types and what triggers it. We also cover the most effective acne treatments from everyday skincare through to prescription and professional procedures.

City Skin Clinic is an online skincare clinic. We provide custom medical skincare and do not offer in-clinic procedures such as chemical peels, laser treatment or energy-based devices. However, we have explained all the options below because we believe the public deserve clear, evidence-led information without commercial bias.

What is Acne?

This is a common inflammatory skin condition that centres on the pores. In your skin each pore contains a hair follicle and an oil gland (sebaceous gland). When a pore becomes blocked with excess oil and dead skin cells, it forms a spot. This can show up as a blackhead, a whitehead, a red bump or a deeper, painful lump.

Acne can appear anywhere the skin has lots of oil glands. It is most common on the face and neck, but it can also appear on the back (often called bacne), chest, shoulders and limbs. Whilst acne itself is not dangerous, it can be painful and persistent. It can also leave acne scars and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation once spots heal, which is why treating it early matters.

What Causes Acne?

This is a complex condition that develops through a combination of things happening in the pore. First, the skin cells lining the pore make too much keratin and do not shed properly. At the same time, the oil glands produce too much oil (sebum), usually driven by hormones. These two changes together block the pore. The trapped oil then lets a normally harmless skin bacterium, Cutibacterium acnes (formerly known as P. acnes), overgrow. This triggers inflammation, which produces the redness, swelling and pus of a spot. If the inflammation is deep or the pore wall bursts, it can damage the surrounding skin and lead to scarring.

What are the Different Types of Acne?

In general, acne is graded as mild, moderate or severe, based on how many spots you have and what type they are. Most people have a mix of different types at the same time. The main types of acne lesions are:

  • Comedonal: These are blackheads (open blocked pores) and whiteheads (closed blocked pores). This is the mildest form and is not inflamed.
  • Papules: These are small, red, tender bumps where the pore has become inflamed.
  • Pustules: This is the classic pimple, a red bump with a white or yellow head of pus.
  • Cysts & Nodules: These are the most severe types and most likely to scar. Cysts are deep, painful, pus-filled lumps. Nodules are large, hard, painful lumps deep under the skin.

What Triggers Acne?

Acne is driven mainly by genetics and hormones. Genetics determine shedding of skin that lines the pores. Androgens (sometimes called male hormones, though everyone has them) make the oil glands larger and more active. This is why acne is so common during puberty, when androgen levels rise. It also explains why many women get acne around their period, during menopause or with polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS). In adult women, hormonal acne often appears as deep spots along the jawline and chin. Some medicines, including steroids, testosterone and lithium, can trigger acne too. Diet and stress do not cause acne. However, high-sugar diets and stress can make it worse. There is also no good evidence that wearing make-up causes acne, though removing it properly each day helps keep pores clear.

How is Acne Treated?

The right acne treatment depends on the type and severity. Mild acne often responds to a good skincare routine, whilst moderate to severe acne usually needs prescription treatment. The main treatment options are:

Skin clinics may also use professional treatments like chemical peels, microneedling and laser, mainly for scarring and texture. These need care in deeper skin tones, where they can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. They also tend to complement rather than replace skincare and prescription acne treatments.

Whatever the approach, acne takes time to treat and requires long-term maintenance. Most treatments take at least 2-3 months to start to work. Retinoids and other actives can also sometimes cause an initial flare or purging. So it is worth sticking with treatment for at least 2-3 months before judging whether it is working.

Can You Prevent Acne?

You cannot generally prevent acne, especially when it is hormonal or runs in the family. However, you can reduce how often you break out and limit the marks acne leaves. A simple, gentle routine helps. Cleanse twice a day, avoid harsh scrubbing and choose non-comedogenic products that will not block pores. Treating spots early, and resisting the urge to pick or squeeze, reduces the risk of scarring. A daily sunscreen protects healing skin and stops marks darkening. Where acne is hormonal or linked to a medicine, it is worth reviewing this with your doctor to tackle any underlying triggers.

At City Skin Clinic, our doctors create personalised skincare to clear acne and the marks it leaves. Where appropriate, we use actives like tretinoin, azelaic acid, spironolactone, hydroquinone and clindamycin. Every plan starts with an online consultation and is built around your skin and goals. Start your online consultation today. The journey towards great skin starts here.

This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin or treatment options.

Frequently asked questions

Acne and rosacea can look similar, but they are different conditions. Acne is caused by blocked pores and shows up as blackheads, whiteheads and spots, and it can affect any age. Rosacea is mainly redness and flushing with small bumps, has no blackheads and usually starts after 30. Confusingly, one type of rosacea (papulopustular, sometimes called acne rosacea) looks a lot like acne, so it is worth getting a proper diagnosis.

For many people it does. Acne often settles in the late teens or early twenties as hormones become more stable. However, adult acne is increasingly common, especially in women, and it can carry on or even start for the first time in your thirties or forties.

No. Acne is not caused by dirty skin or by eating any particular food, and over-washing can actually make it worse. High-sugar diets and stress can aggravate existing acne, but they do not cause it. Gentle, consistent skincare matters far more than scrubbing.

Hormonal acne tends to appear as deep, tender spots along the jawline, chin and neck, and it often flares with your menstrual cycle. It is common in adult women and in those with PCOS or going through menopause. Treatments like spironolactone, which targets the hormonal driver, often work well for this pattern.

It is worth seeing a doctor if over-the-counter products are not working, if your acne is moderate to severe, if it is leaving scars or marks or if it is affecting your confidence. Prescription treatment is much more effective for these cases and can prevent lasting scarring.

There is no permanent cure, but acne can be cleared and kept under control. Many people grow out of it, and for those who do not, the right treatment keeps breakouts at bay. Because acne is driven by ongoing factors like hormones, maintenance treatment is often needed to hold the results.

There is no single best treatment, since it depends on the type and severity. Mild acne usually responds to skincare actives like benzoyl peroxide and retinoids. Moderate acne often needs prescription topicals, whilst severe or hormonal acne may need oral medication such as antibiotics, spironolactone or isotretinoin. Daily sunscreen helps fade the marks acne leaves behind.

Authored by:

Dr Amel Ibrahim
Aesthetic Doctor & Medical Director
BSC (HONS) MBBS MRCS PHD
Founder City Skin Clinic
Member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England
Associate Member of British Association of Body Sculpting GMC Registered - 7049611

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