Although inflammaging has still not yet entered the mainstream, this concept is driving many of the upcoming trends in skincare. The term links inflammation with ageing. It suggests that inflammation underpins a lot of the changes in the function and appearance of skin over time. More importantly, this theory offers a target for preventing and treating signs of skin ageing by tackling underlying inflammation. Expect to hear a lot more about inflammaging in the coming years as brands develop and market longevity skincare products. However, although inflammaging is a real concept, can it really prevent and reverse skin ageing? In this article we explore the science behind skin longevity and review its benefits and limits in skincare.
What Exactly is Inflammaging?
Inflammaging is a term scientists use to describe a process seen in ageing all over the body. It refers to a state of chronic, low-grade inflammatory signalling that develops over time. Crucially, this occurs even in the absence of an infection or injury.
The main cause is likely old “senescent” cells which over time stop dividing but do not die. Instead, these “zombie cells” accumulate and cause low-grade background inflammation. Over time, this ongoing low-level signalling causes tissue ageing. Skin is very vulnerable to this because it faces constant exposure to outside stressors like UV radiation and pollution. These can cause repeated irritation and skin barrier disruption. This results in low-grade inflammation which can build up and influence how skin behaves. Inflammaging can make skin slower to recover, more reactive and less resilient. Damage to the skin barrier can also make it less able to protect itself from UV damage which is the main external cause of skin ageing.
Without doubt, this is a new and exciting area of science. Unfortunately, the term inflammaging, just like skin longevity or skinspan, is often used incorrectly or too broadly. Too often it has become a way to explain almost any age-related skin change. This ranges from dryness and redness to hyperpigmentation and texture changes. Worse still, at times it is used to suggest that inflammation is the primary driver of all visible ageing. This confusion has consequences. One is that it can lead people to avoid active skin treatments like retinoids altogether. They assume that anything potentially harsh can cause or worsen it. Furthermore, inflammaging is a scientific concept and not a medical condition. It is important not to confuse it with inflammatory conditions like rosacea, eczema or acne. These can occur alongside inflammaging but require specific management.
How Does Inflammaging Differ from “Normal” Ageing?
Normal skin ageing is due to a mixture of genetics, hormonal changes and external factors like sun damage. All of these can lead to structural changes such as reduced collagen, irregular skin barrier function and abnormal pigment deposits. Together, these add to skin ageing. These changes cause the main signs of ageing like thin skin, wrinkles, laxity, dryness, large pores and age spots. The ability of the skin to repair and protect itself may also reduce. Inflammaging describes one layer of this process but not the entire mechanism. It is still a new concept. The idea is that low-grade inflammation builds up over time due to ageing skin cells. This leads to changes in the skin’s behaviour. It struggles to repair and protect itself. The end result is that it becomes less able to regenerate ageing tissues. It also grows more sensitive to outside damage, which speeds up skin ageing.
One important thing to note is that a lot of the studies on inflammaging are basic lab studies. They are not large-scale high quality clinical trials. As such, they do not model the complex signalling pathways in the human body. This is why there is still a gap in our understanding of how inflammation and skin ageing are linked, and how much it matters. What we can take from this is that inflammaging cannot be switched off with a single ingredient or routine. As such, there is unlikely to be a topical product that eliminates background inflammatory signalling entirely.
What are the Signs of Inflammaging?
In general, inflammaging tends to manifest as patterns rather than isolated symptoms. These changes often appear gradually, which is why they are easy to miss or attribute to something else. There is of course also a huge overlap between inflammaging and the normal signs of skin ageing. As such, it is hard to accurately diagnose, but potential signs you might have inflammaging include:
- Skin may tolerate products it once handled easily far less well.
- Redness may linger longer after minor triggers.
- Skin may be more prone to hyperpigmentation.
- Recovery from in-clinic treatments or injuries may take longer than expected.
- Skin is consistently dry and may look duller.
- Loss of plumpness and firmness of the skin.
- Recurrence of existing reactive conditions like acne or rosacea.
- An increase in fine lines and wrinkles.
What Are the Best Skincare and Treatments for Inflammaging?
Before we go further, remember that inflammaging comes from ongoing background inflammatory activity. This plays out over a long time. This means it is not something that can be switched off with a single product or treatment. However, there are a number of lifestyle measures, skincare ingredients and professional treatments that can help:
- Lifestyle: ongoing stress, processed and sugary foods and contact with irritants can all drive inflammaging. Try to sleep better, eat a healthy diet, drink plenty of water and protect your skin from outside damage. There is also evidence that intermittent fasting approaches can help reduce inflammation and repair damaged cells.
- Skincare: use sun protection and avoid irritating your skin in order to help limit background inflammatory activity. Anti-inflammatory ingredients such as azelaic acid and niacinamide help here. So do barrier-supporting compounds like peptides and ceramides, which support the skin barrier and lower inflammation. Antioxidants like vitamin C can also reduce oxidative stress and inflammation. Do not be tempted to get rid of all your actives in the name of preventing it. Doing so will cheat yourself out of properly treating your skin concerns. You can still use retinoids like tretinoin or retinol, as well as pigment-fading ingredients like hydroquinone. Just use them in doses and frequencies that do not irritate your skin.
- Professional Treatments: the concept of inflammaging is often used to argue against the value of aesthetic procedures, particularly in mature skin. This is another oversimplification. Although aggressive or poorly chosen treatments can certainly worsen inflammation, there is no need to avoid treatments that help improve form and function. For example, Botox can help prevent dynamic muscles from becoming ingrained. Meanwhile, skin boosters and microneedling can boost collagen to firm and hydrate the skin. These are carried out in person rather than online.
Inflammaging is a real process that helps explain why skin changes with age. It also shows why inflammatory control matters more over time. However, it is a new area of research. There are still a lot of questions about how much of the lab data translates to human skin and skincare. Nonetheless, the term can still be helpful. Just like everywhere else in the body, inflammation is an important factor in skin ageing, though not the only or even the main one. This should help you find lifestyle and skincare ways to reduce it as part of a wider beauty, health and wellness routine.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online clinic offers safe and effective treatments using ingredients like tretinoin and hydroquinone where appropriate. Our doctors treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin or treatment options.
