What Does Niacinamide Actually Do?

Niacinamide is one of the most hyped topical skincare ingredients and a consistent darling of the skincare world. It is also known as nicotinamide and is a form of vitamin B3. Its rumoured benefits include tightening lax skin, brightening the complexion and the holy grail of shrinking pores. In this article, we explore what niacinamide is, to separate fact from fiction. We also figure out why dermatologists are raving about it. We review the actual proven benefits of niacinamide for healthy skin and how to use it in your skincare. Here’s everything you wanted to know about niacinamide but were too afraid to ask.

What is Niacinamide?

Commonly known as vitamin B3, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that plays a vital role in skincare. It’s a powerhouse ingredient known for a wide array of benefits. These include improving the appearance of enlarged pores, evening the skin tone, softening fine lines and reducing dullness. Niacinamide is often found in serums, moisturisers and toners. It works with the natural substances in your skin to enhance its appearance. Unlike skincare acids and retinoids, which have similar effects, niacinamide doesn’t exfoliate the skin. Rather, it strengthens the skin’s barrier and helps lock in moisture. It suits all skin types, and you can use it alongside other skincare ingredients for a comprehensive routine.

Niacinamide, niacin and nicotinamide are closely related terms that people often wrongly use interchangeably in skincare and health. Niacin is also a form of vitamin B3 and is actually the parent compound of niacinamide. When taken orally, your body can convert niacin into niacinamide. Their effects on the body can also be quite different. For instance, niacin might cause skin flushing, which is not typically seen with niacinamide. On the other hand, nicotinamide is simply another name for niacinamide.

What Does Niacinamide Do for Skin?

The benefits of niacinamide are extensive in dermatology. It is a multifaceted B vitamin that works through several mechanisms to rejuvenate the skin. Below are the main niacinamide benefits for skin:

• Strengthens the skin barrier and hydration: niacinamide aids the production of ceramides, a type of lipid that helps form the skin’s barrier and retain moisture. This increased ceramide production leads to better hydration and protection against environmental irritants.
• Regulates oil production: niacinamide can regulate sebum (oil) production by modulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. This helps minimise oiliness and reduce acne breakouts.
• Reduces the appearance of pores: niacinamide’s effect on pores and fine lines comes partly from its ability to support collagen production. By boosting collagen, it helps maintain the skin’s elasticity. Combined with oil regulation, this leads to a smoother complexion and less visible pores.
• Calms redness: niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce redness and irritation. This makes it popular for sensitive skin and potentially useful for some people with rosacea.
• Fades hyperpigmentation: niacinamide inhibits the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells. This can help reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, brightening the complexion for a more even tone.
• Supports skin ageing: niacinamide stimulates cells to make more collagen, which plumps the skin and softens signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles. Its ability to hydrate the skin and fade dark spots from sun damage further boosts this anti-ageing effect.

More broadly, vitamin B3 plays a critical role in the body’s cellular metabolism. It is involved in over 400 enzymatic reactions that convert carbohydrates, fats and proteins into energy. This helps maintain the health of your cells and allows them to function optimally. As a result, niacinamide can help support your skin cells too.

How Do You Use Niacinamide?

Integrating topical niacinamide into your routine is a straightforward process, thanks to its compatibility with various skin types and other ingredients. It is also available in a wide array of products. Here’s how to use topical niacinamide to get the most of its skin benefits:

1. Identify your skin concerns: determine what you’re hoping to achieve with niacinamide. For example, are you looking to address hyperpigmentation, redness, pore size or skin ageing? Also, will you be using it on your face or other parts of the body?
2. Choose the right product: niacinamide is available in various formulations. The most common is a serum, but it’s also available in cleansers, moisturisers, eye creams and toners. Select a product that fits your skin type and concerns. For example, if you have oily skin you might prefer it in a toner. Very dry skin, on the other hand, might do better with a hydrating serum or rich moisturiser. Look for products containing 2% to 10% niacinamide, as studies show this range is most effective. If you have sensitive skin or skin of colour, start with a lower concentration and build up as your skin tolerates it.
3. Apply it correctly: use niacinamide after cleansing and toning (unless you’re using it as a toner) but before heavier moisturisers and oils.
4. Use sunscreen: although niacinamide can help protect the skin barrier, it does not replace the need for sunscreen. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 during the day. This protects your skin from UV damage and skin cancer.

Which Products Pair Well with Niacinamide?

Niacinamide complements and boosts the skin benefits of ingredients like hyaluronic acid, peptides, ceramides and antioxidants such as vitamin C. You can use it with retinol or prescription retinoids as well, but apply them at different times of the day to reduce irritation.

How Long Does it Take to See Results?

The time it takes to see results can vary. It depends on your skin type, the specific concern, the concentration in the product and your overall routine. Here’s a general overview of what you can expect:

1. Immediate effects: you might notice immediate hydration and a slight improvement in skin texture within the first few days of using niacinamide.
2. Short-term results: within 2 to 4 weeks of consistent use, you might start to see benefits. These include reduced redness, improved skin barrier function and a reduction in the appearance of pores.
3. Long-term results: for more significant changes, such as a reduction in hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, you usually need consistent use over 8 to 12 weeks. Some stubborn concerns take even longer to show noticeable improvement.

What Are the Side Effects of Niacinamide?

In general, most experts consider niacinamide safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin. However, as with any skin product, there may be potential side effects:

1. Irritation: some people might experience redness, itching or irritation. This is particularly likely with a high concentration of niacinamide. It can also happen if you combine it with other actives like exfoliating acids or retinoids.
2. Allergic reaction: though thankfully extremely rare, an allergic reaction is possible. Symptoms might include swelling, rash, hives or difficulty breathing. If any of these occur, stop using the product and seek medical attention.
3. Niacin flush: this is more likely with niacin rather than niacinamide. The reaction can cause the skin to become warm, red and tingly. The flush is usually temporary and harmless. Seek medical help if you experience it, as it can sometimes be difficult to distinguish from an allergic reaction.

To reduce the risk of side effects, always perform a patch test when trying a new product, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. If you are concerned about potential side effects, existing skin conditions or interactions with other products, consult a skincare professional.

The benefits of niacinamide in skincare are clear. Whether you’re dealing with ageing skin, large pores, uneven skin tone or just want a healthy glow, niacinamide can help. It isn’t a silver bullet though. You might need to use it alongside other actives such as tretinoin or hydroquinone to treat more serious cases of acne, scarring, hyperpigmentation or skin ageing. Skincare is also highly personal, and results vary from person to person. Factors like your skin’s overall health, how consistently you follow the routine and the use of complementary products can all influence the benefits. If you have specific concerns, or aren’t seeing the results you want after consistent use, see a dermatologist or skin specialist. They can tailor a routine to your skin’s unique needs and goals.

At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online clinic offers safe and effective treatments using ingredients like tretinoin, niacinamide and hydroquinone where appropriate. Our doctors treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.

This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin or treatment options.