Enzyme exfoliation is not as well known as acid exfoliants but it remains a great choice for a more gentle yet effective way to get ultra smooth glowing skin. There are a number of different products on the market, professional treatments and even at home recipes that can safely give you the benefits of enzyme exfoliants. In this article, we’ll explore what enzyme exfoliation is and what it does for skin, the types of enzyme exfoliants and how to use them in your skincare routine for maximum benefits.
What Are Enzymes & What Do They Do for Skin?
Enzymes are naturally occurring proteins that speed up chemical reactions in the body. They are an essential part of all biological organisms and so are found in humans, animals and microbes. In skincare, enzyme exfoliation involves using an exfoliant or peel to slough away dead skin cells. These products harness the power of fruit or plant-derived enzymes to refine the skin’s texture and appearance. The enzymes work to break down the keratin protein in the outer layer of the skin. This gently dissolves dead skin cells and promotes cell turnover. Enzyme exfoliation can leave the skin smoother and brighter. Unlike abrasive scrubs which physically remove dead skin or acid exfoliants which use acids to break down the bonds between cells, enzymes gently “digest” dead skin to unveil fresh skin. As such, enzyme exfoliation offers a gentler alternative particularly for people with sensitive or reactive skin.
Types of Enzyme Exfoliants
There are actually many different types of enzyme exfoliants. The source of the enzymes is usually from fruits or other natural sources. Each of these works slightly differently to target dead skin cells and improve skin health. The main most widely used enzymes in skincare include:
- Papaya Enzymes (Papain): Derived from papaya fruit, papain is a proteolytic enzyme that breaks down proteins in dead skin cells. It’s known for its mild exfoliating properties and is suitable for acne-prone skin though it can dry our or irritate sensitive skin.
- Pineapple Enzymes (Bromelain): Found in pineapple, Bromelain is another popular enzyme used in skincare. It offers anti-inflammatory benefits in addition to exfoliation. This makes it ideal for calming redness and irritation.
- Pumpkin Enzymes: These are rich in vitamins A and C, as well as antioxidants. Pumpkin enzymes exfoliate while nourishing and hydrating the skin. As such pumpkin is a favourite in enzyme peel formulations for dull, dry and tired looking skin.
- Fungal, Yeast or Bacterial Enzymes: Some enzyme exfoliants use lab-derived enzymes from natural fungal or bacterial sources. These are highly controlled and offer consistent results across all skin types.
- Kiwi and Fig Enzymes: These less common enzymes are also effective exfoliators. They contain proteolytic properties similar to papain and bromelain but are often included for their additional antioxidant benefits.
Benefits of Enzyme Exfoliation
Using an enzyme exfoliant offers a host of benefits for the skin if used correctly and appropriately. The main benefits of enzyme exfoliation include:
- Gentle Exfoliation: Enzyme exfoliation may be of greater benefit for those with sensitive or reactive skin as well as skin of colour. They work by gently removing dead cells without causing micro-tears or irritation.
- Improve Skin Texture: Regular use of enzyme exfoliants can smooth rough patches, refine pores and reduce uneven texture.
- Brighten Complexion: By removing dead skin cells, enzymes can help unveil a brighter and more radiant complexion.
- Clearer Skin & Fewer Breakouts: Enzyme exfoliants help unclog pores and reduce inflammatory acne lesions by preventing the buildup of dead cells and excess oil.
- Tackle Skin Ageing: Enzymes smooth the skin and stimulate cell turnover. This can minimise the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation from sun spots over time.
- Boost Skin Health: Many of the popular enzyme exfoliants in skincare contain additional antioxidants and vitamins that can nourish and protect the skin.
Potential Risks & Side Effects
Although enzyme exfoliation is generally safe and gentle, some individuals may experience mild irritation, dryness or in worst cases allergy, purging or barrier damage. This is especially likely if you overuse the product or have extremely sensitive skin. For here are some of the key precautions to take to try and reduce these risks:
- Always patch-test a new enzyme exfoliant on a small area before applying it to your face.
- Avoid enzyme exfoliants if you have open wounds or severe active acne.
- Do not use enzymes immediately after chemical peels or laser treatments.
- Protect your skin with sunscreen as it can become more sensitive to UV rays.
Generally, enzyme exfoliants are considered safe during pregnancy. However if you are pregnant, breast feeding or have an underlying health condition, you should consult with your doctor before using.
Who Is Enzyme Exfoliation Best For?
Enzyme exfoliation is suitable for a wide range of skin types. That being said, some people will benefit more than others. As such it is important to also compare enzyme exfoliation with acid exfoliation to choose the best method for you. The main skin types where enzyme exfoliation works best are:
- Sensitive Skin: Many enzyme exfoliants are gentle enough for those prone to redness or irritation.
- Dry Skin: Some enzymes can exfoliate without the skin of stripping natural oils. They can also nourish and hydrate the skin.
- Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: Clears clogged pores to help minimises breakouts.
- Combination Skin: Provides exfoliation across dry and oily areas.
- Mature Skin: Stimulates cell renewal to smooth fine lines and counteract dullness without irritating mature skin which tends to be thinner and dryer.
How to Choose the Best Enzyme Exfoliant For Your Skin
So not all enzyme exfoliants are the same. Even though they all offer exfoliation, from the earlier section its obvious that some provide additional benefits or may have greater risks compared with others depending on your skin type. Look for products tailored to your skin concerns. Below is a quick overview for finding are the best enzyme exfoliants based on your skin type and needs:
- Sensitive Skin: Opt for products with bromelain as the primary enzyme as it is gentle and soothing. Kiwi enzymes also offer mild exfoliation with antioxidant benefits to calm and protect.
- Oily & Acne-Prone Skin: Choose enzyme exfoliants that also target excess oil production like Papain. Bromelain has anti-inflammatory properties which help reduce redness and calm breakouts. Fungal-derived enzymes can effectively target clogged pores and excess oil.
- Dry Skin: Pumpkin enzymes exfoliate while delivering hydration and essential vitamins. Pineapple enzymes are also gentle and effective at removing flaky skin without stripping natural oils.
- Combination Skin: Bromelain balances exfoliation in both oily and dry areas. Alternatively, enzyme blends (e.g., papaya and pineapple) can target multiple skin concerns simultaneously.
- Dull or Uneven Skin Tone: Select products containing pumpkin enzymes as these are packed with vitamins A and C which brighten the skin. Papain also helps fade pigmentation and promote even skin tone.
- Mature or Ageing Skin: Pumpkin and bacterial-derived enzymes can help stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity. This reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as sun spots.
How to Use Enzyme Exfoliants in Your Skincare Routine
If you’re ready to start enzyme exfoliation, there are a few easy steps you can take to maximise your chances of success. The first step after figuring our which type of enzyme peel is best for you, is to choose the right type of product. Different formulations of enzyme exfoliants cater to varying skin types, lifestyles and concerns. Here’s how to choose the best one for you:
- Peels: Enzyme peels are ideal for deeper exfoliation and are particularly effective at addressing specific concerns like dullness or uneven skin tone. They work best for normal, combination or oily skin types and are ideal if you need a less regular treatment.
- Masks: These are a great option for dry or sensitive skin. Masks often include hydrating and soothing ingredients alongside the exfoliating enzymes.
- Cleansers: These are are perfect for daily use or as a gentle introduction to enzyme exfoliation. Cleansers are suitable for all skin types and are particularly beneficial for those cautious about over-exfoliating, as they provide mild, consistent exfoliation with each use.
- Powders or Granules: Powdered enzyme exfoliants are versatile products activated with water. They allow you to control the intensity of exfoliation. These are especially good for experienced users with combination or oily skin that want a customisable treatment.
- Serums, Essences or Toners: These are lightweight formulations designed to be left on the skin. They are often enriched with additional active ingredients for targeted benefits like brightening or hydration.
Once you have chosen the right product for you, it is important to use it correctly and regularly. Here are our top tips for getting the maximum benefits of enzyme exfoliation:
- Prep Your Skin: Always start with clean dry skin to ensure good penetration. If your enzyme exfoliant is a cleanser then make sure you remove any dirt, sunscreen or makeup first using a cleansing balm, oil or micellar water before using it.
- Apply the Enzyme Exfoliant Evenly: Follow the product instructions to the letter. If it is a leave-on product then ensure it has dried before applying the rest of your routine. If it requires rinsing off then make sure you monitor the time carefully and do not over exceed.
- Follow with Hydration: Use a soothing serum or moisturiser to replenish hydration.
- Sun Protection: Always apply SPF during the day, especially after exfoliation.
- Avoid Over-Exfoliation: This depends on the product but for most skin types, 2-3 times a week is the maximum. If you’re using a stronger peel or mask then you might need to use it less frequently. If ypu’re using a cleanser then you may be able to use it more frequently. The frequency also depend on how sensitive your skin is and if you’re using other actives.
- Layer Sensibly: Avoid using multiple exfoliants (e.g., combining enzymes with AHAs or physical scrubs) on the same day to prevent irritation or damage. You should also use at a different time of day to Retinoids or use on different days depending on how sensitive your skin is.
- Listen to Your Skin: If you notice redness, sensitivity, or dryness, scale back usage to allow your skin to recover.
- Storage Matters: Store your enzyme exfoliant in a cool, dry place to preserve its potency. This is because enzymes can degrade when exposed to heat and moisture.
How to Make Your Own Enzyme Peel
You can also make your own enzyme peel if you prefer a natural DIY way to revive your skin. This is because many fruits and cooking ingredients are rich in natural enzymes that can gently exfoliate, brighten and nourish your skin. The most popular ingredients for making your own enzyme peel or mask are papaya, pineapple or pumpkin as they’re readily available and easy to use. Honey, Avocados and live Yoghurt also provide a nice base to mix with your fruit derived enzyme pulp to add extra hydration, soothing and nutrition. It is however important to proceed with caution and do a patch test before you apply your enzyme mask peel to your face. Also only use fresh ingredients and follow the same tips as for using commercial products above to avoid over exfoliation and protect your skin.
Professional Exfoliating Enzyme Peels
We’ve largely covered at home enzyme exfoliant skincare products as these provide a cost effective way to reap the skin benefits of enzymes. Professional enzyme peels are stronger and typically performed in a clinic or spa setting often as part of a facial. They offer a deeper and more customised exfoliation for skin using potent enzyme blends, combined with other active ingredients. They can target specific concerns such as hyperpigmentation, acne scars or fine lines but they’re also great if you want a quick skin boost. The results can be impressive but often require regular treatments and we think they’re best used alongside a good skincare routine that also includes a regular exfoliant.
Enzyme exfoliation is an effective and gentle way to get smoother, brighter and fresher looking skin. The key to success is choosing the best enzyme exfoliant for your skin type and correctly using it in your skincare routine. You’re spoilt for choice in terms of enzyme exfoliating products and professional peels. There are also DIY options if you’re keen for a natural way to get the benefits of enzyme exfoliation. As with anything in skincare (and life), the key to getting best results is consistency and sensible use.
At City Skin Clinic, we are fanatical about personalised skincare. Through our online skin clinic, our doctors offer safe and effective treatments using ingredients like Tretinoin and Hydroquinone where appropriate. We treat a range of skin conditions including acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
