In your journey towards flawless skin, you may have come across the term skin purging. It’s a concept that often raises eyebrows and generates more questions than answers. In this guide, we take a deep dive into the most common questions. These include what causes purging, whether it is helpful or harmful, and how to deal with it.
What is Skin Purging and How Long Does it Last?
Skin purging is a term often used to describe the skin’s response to certain active ingredients that speed up skin cell turnover. These ingredients remove the surface layer of dead skin cells and bring the new cells underneath up to replace them. However, this faster regeneration can temporarily cause irritation. It can also bring up existing microcomedones (the tiny, early stages of breakouts) to the surface more quickly. This usually gives rise to temporary acne lesions such as closed and open comedones (blackheads and whiteheads). It can also produce papules, pustules and even cysts. For all intents and purposes, purging looks like you are breaking out.
Skin purging typically lasts anywhere between four and six weeks. That is roughly how long it takes for your skin cells to turn over naturally. During this phase, your skin might seem to get worse, but it should settle and improve once this period passes. If your breakouts persist beyond six weeks, it may not be a purge but a reaction to the product. Either way, consult your doctor at the first sign of purging. They can then advise you on how to manage it.
What Causes Your Skin to Purge?
The main culprits are active ingredients like Retinoids such as Retinol, adapalene or tretinoin. Exfoliating acids like alpha or beta hydroxy acids can also cause it. These ingredients can be quite irritating, and they increase skin turnover, which often triggers a purge. Other ingredients that can sometimes cause skin purging include vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid and even chemical sunscreens. People with sensitive or acne-prone skin have the highest risk. So do those who have never used active products before.
How to Tell Purging from a Breakout
It can be hard to tell the difference between skin purging and a regular breakout, since they tend to look the same. However, purging generally starts soon after you introduce a new active product. It usually subsides after a few weeks of continued use. Acne breakouts, on the other hand, tend to be pre-existing. Various factors trigger or worsen them, including hormonal fluctuations, stress or certain skin products. They tend to be long-standing, and they may persist even after you remove the trigger.
Preventing Purging Skin
It might not always be possible to prevent skin purging entirely. This is because potent active ingredients like exfoliating acids, tretinoin and other Retinoids work in a way that makes purging almost unavoidable. This is especially true for people who are prone to acne breakouts. However, there are a number of things you can do to reduce the risk, severity and duration of purging:
- Perform a patch test to check for an allergic reaction.
- Introduce the new product slowly (for example, once a week if it is tretinoin or an acid exfoliant), then build up the frequency as your skin tolerates it.
- Start with a low strength and build it up gradually over time.
- Support your skin’s barrier to reduce irritation, by boosting hydration and moisturisation.
- Protect your skin from sun damage and further inflammation with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
- Avoid starting too many active products at once. Instead, stagger them so your skin can adapt to each one.
How to Deal with Purging
So, even if you have diligently followed the tips above, there is still a chance you can get skin purging. First of all, remember that purging is a sign the products are working, so do not quit or give up. You can definitely manage this often daunting phase, and it will be worth it.
The tips below should help you safely navigate most purging. However, if you are experiencing severe discomfort, or the purge seems to be lasting longer than expected, you should consult a dermatologist or other skincare professional. If tretinoin purging or another prescription product is behind your breakouts, contact your treating doctor straight away. They will advise you on how to adjust your skincare routine to overcome it.
Doctor’s Top Tips
Here’s how you can get through tretinoin purging. It also works for purging caused by other Retinoids, exfoliating acids, vitamin C and other skincare:
- Do not pick or squeeze the spots, because this can lead to inflammation or scarring.
- If this is tretinoin purging, or purging due to a beta hydroxy acid (for example salicylic acid) or another retinoid, then you do not need to do anything else, because these already treat acne breakouts.
- If you are getting hyperpigmentation from breakouts caused by a beta hydroxy acid, tretinoin or another retinoid, then do not worry, because these products will treat that too.
- Use a gentle, hydrating skincare routine to help repair your skin and calm inflammation during the purging phase. Load up on humectants and rich, nourishing moisturisers to protect and reinforce your skin’s barrier.
- Try reducing the frequency of the product you are using, then gradually increasing it once your skin settles.
- If you are on the slowest frequency and lowest dose, try applying a thin layer of moisturiser, then apply your product on top. This slows absorption and reduces irritation.
Is Purging a Necessary Evil?
In a way, yes and no. Skin purging is generally a sign that the product is working. However, your skin has not yet adapted to tolerate it well. It doesn’t happen to everyone, and when it does, it only lasts a short time. Unfortunately, if you want to use the product, you have to push through this phase. There are no shortcuts, I’m afraid, but you can do a few things to reduce the chances of purging, or at least lessen its severity and duration. By using a “start low and slow” approach, your skin will adjust to the new product and you will lessen the severity of any purging. As always, if you are concerned about purging or starting a new product, contact a dermatologist or other skin specialist.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our doctors offer safe and effective custom treatments using ingredients like tretinoin, azelaic acid, hydroquinone and niacinamide where appropriate, through our online clinic. Our doctors treat acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma, rosacea and skin ageing through bespoke compounded treatments designed around you. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any health concerns or questions you might have.
