Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation treatment. It uses a sterile blade to shave away dead surface skin and the fine vellus hair known as peach fuzz. This leaves the skin instantly smoother and brighter, which is why it has become such a popular facial before weddings, events and red-carpet appearances. It is also one of the few clinic treatments people now attempt at home. In this article, we explain what dermaplaning does, what it can and cannot treat, how it compares to other treatments and whether it is safe to try at home.
Please note, we are an online skin clinic so we do not offer dermaplaning or any in-clinic facials. We have written this article because we believe people deserve clear, honest information about all of their options.
What is Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is a form of physical exfoliation. A trained practitioner holds a sterile surgical blade at an angle against the skin. They then gently scrape away the uppermost layer of dead cells, along with the soft vellus hair on the surface. Unlike a chemical peel, which uses acids to dissolve those dead cells, dermaplaning removes them mechanically. The result is immediate. Skin looks smoother and more radiant, and makeup and skincare sit more evenly on the surface. Clinics and spas offer it as a professional clinical facial, and a growing number of people now attempt it at home with purpose-made blades.
Where Did Dermaplaning Come From?
Dermaplaning is newer in name than in practice. Scraping the skin to smooth and brighten it is an ancient idea. In the mid-20th century, dermatologists and plastic surgeons refined a version that used a sterile surgical blade. They often used it to prepare the skin before or after facial surgery. It moved into aesthetic clinics through the 1980s and into spas by the 1990s. The arrival of at-home blades has since made it one of the most widely tried exfoliation treatments around.
What are the Benefits of Dermaplaning?
The appeal of dermaplaning is that the results are instant and need no recovery time. Clearing the build-up of dead cells and peach fuzz makes the skin look smoother, brighter and more even, and it gives a flawless base for makeup. Dermaplaning can reduce the appearance of shallow acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles and dull skin. Clearing the surface also lets serums and moisturisers absorb more easily.
The benefits are real, but they do not last. Because dermaplaning only works on the surface, the effect is temporary. Skin renews itself roughly every month, and the vellus hair grows back at its normal rate. As such, most people repeat the treatment every 4 to 6 weeks to keep the smoothness and glow.
How Does Dermaplaning Compare to Other Treatments?
Dermaplaning is one of several ways to exfoliate and refresh the skin, and it sits at the gentlest, most superficial end of the range. The main rivals to dermaplaning are:
- Microdermabrasion: This also exfoliates the surface, but with a machine using a diamond tip or fine crystals rather than a blade. Unlike dermaplaning, it does not remove vellus hair. Both are surface treatments with no downtime.
- Peels: Enzyme and chemical peels use acids or biological agents instead of a blade to lift away dead cells. Stronger peels reach deeper into the skin. They are more effective for hyperpigmentation, acne and ageing, but they often need a course and can involve a few days of peeling and flaking.
- Lasers: Laser resurfacing removes deeper layers and stimulates collagen, which makes it far more powerful for deep wrinkles and scarring. It also carries more downtime and, on deeper skin tones, a higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. For a quick, no-downtime refresh, dermaplaning is the gentler choice. For stubborn pigment or scarring, a laser usually does more.
- Microneedling: This creates controlled micro-injuries to build collagen, so it works on scars, fine lines and texture over a course of sessions rather than instantly. Dermaplaning does not build collagen, but it pairs well with microneedling and other treatments by clearing the surface first.
The main thing to understand is that whilst offerring a quick skin refresh, dermaplaning only smooths the surface. It does not treat the cause of acne, pigment or skin ageing. So you need to have a good skincare routine with targeted actives including vitamin C and retinoids like tretinoin to treat concerns and optimise your skin skin.
Can You Do Dermaplaning at Home?
At-home dermaplaning tools have made the treatment far more accessible. If used carefully, they can give some of the same surface smoothing. However, to reduce risk of injury there a few sensible precautions worth following.
First, make sure dermaplaning suits your skin. Avoid it if you have active acne, rosacea, eczema or any inflamed or broken skin, as scraping the surface can make these worse. Darker skin tones are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so take particular care and consider professional advice first. Pause any retinoids or exfoliating acids for a few days before and after to avoid irritation. Otherwise, the procedure is simple and basic steps include:
- Cleanse and fully dry the skin first.
- Hold the skin taut with one hand to create a smooth surface.
- Hold the blade at roughly a 45-degree angle to the skin.
- Use short, light strokes, and never drag over active spots or irritation.
- Rinse with lukewarm water, then apply a hydrating serum, moisturiser and sunscreen.
- Keep your tools clean. Disposable blades are safest. Any reusable tool should be sanitised after every use.
What are the Side Effects & Risks?
Dermaplaning is generally low-risk when done properly. Most people notice some redness and sensitivity straight after, which usually settles within a few hours, and the occasional small whitehead a day or two later. The main everyday risk is nicking the skin if you mishandle the blade, which can cause minor cuts. Done badly, or on the wrong skin, the risks are more serious. Poor technique or unclean tools can lead to infection, scarring or lasting changes in skin colour. This is why an honest skin assessment matters as much as the technique itself.
Whilst we’re still here, there are two persistent myths also worth correcting. Dermaplaning does not make hair grow back thicker or darker. The fine vellus hair simply returns at its natural rate and texture. It is also not a fix for deep acne scars. The deeper, surgical form of the procedure uses a dermatome to smooth pitted scarring but this is a professional skin treatment. The gentle and common dermaplaning facial cannot do this. In any case, stubborn scarring is usually better treated with treatments to laser, microneedling, TCA cross peels or surgery.
Dermaplaning is a quick, low-risk way to smooth and brighten the skin, and it makes a genuinely good base for makeup before an event. Its limits matter just as much. The effect is temporary and only skin deep, so it works best as an occasional polish rather than a treatment for acne, pigment or ageing. For those concerns, the lasting results come from consistent prescription skincare, with facials and exfoliation as a complement. If you have a skin condition, or you are simply not sure whether dermaplaning suits you, it is best to get advice from a skin professional first.
At City Skin Clinic, we don’t provide dermaplaning or any in-clinic facials. We do however offer personalised prescription skincare that works on the causes of dull, uneven and ageing skin rather than just the surface. Our doctors treat concerns like skin ageing, hyperpigmentation and acne using actives like tretinoin, azelaic acid and niacinamide where appropriate. To get started, book a video consultation or complete our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
