Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, is a popular treatment for improving skin texture and tone. It uses a device covered in fine needles to create tiny, controlled punctures in the skin. These trigger a natural healing response that stimulates fresh collagen and elastin. It can be carried out professionally in a clinic or, with a gentler device, at home. More recently, microneedling has also become a popular way to support hair growth. In this article, we explain how microneedling works, the different devices used, what it can treat on the skin and scalp and the difference between professional and at-home treatments. We also review how to do it safely at home.
Please note, we are an online skin clinic so we do not offer microneedling or any in-clinic procedures. We have written this article because we believe people deserve clear, honest information about all of their options.
What is Microneedling and How Does it Work?
Microneedling works by creating a series of microscopic punctures in the surface of the skin. As the needles pass over the skin, they create tiny channels that heal within a day or two. This controlled injury triggers a release of growth factors, which prompts the skin to produce new collagen and elastin.
Collagen and elastin are the proteins responsible for the skin’s firmness and elasticity. As such, increasing them helps the skin look smoother, firmer and more refreshed. The strength of the effect depends mostly on how deep the needles reach, which is where the different devices come in.
What are the Different Microneedling Devices?
A few different tools all do the same basic job, which is why the names are often used interchangeably. The differences come down to how they are powered, how deep they reach and how precise they are. The main tools for microneedling are:
- Rollers: Dermaroller is the original and best-known device. It is a handheld wheel covered in dozens of fine needles that you roll across the skin. The needles are a fixed length and enter at a slight angle, so a roller is simple and affordable but less precise. The shortest rollers, with needles under 0.5mm, are the type sold for home use, where they mainly boost product absorption and give a gentle glow.
- Stamps: Dermastamp is the most famous brand for these and they works on the same principle as rollers. However, stamps move straight up and down rather than rolling. Because the needles go in vertically, it is more precise and gentler on the surface, which makes it useful for treating small or awkward areas such as individual scars.
- Pens: Microneedling pens like Dermapen or Skinpen are motorised electronic devices that work similarly to a stamp. They come with a disposable needle cartridge that moves up and down very quickly. The depth can be adjusted. This precision and the adjustable depth are why professionals tend to prefer it, particularly for scars, deeper lines and delicate areas like around the eyes.
One thing to note is that Dermaroller, Dermastamp and Dermapen are all brand names but due to their popularity are often used interchangeably as names for these device types. Radiofrequency microneedling is a further step up from of these and we cover it separately in another article. The needles deliver heat into the deeper skin as well as creating the channels which helps give more pronounced skin tightening.
What Can Microneedling Treat?
Because it works by stimulating collagen, microneedling is most effective for concerns related to texture and tone. A 2018 review in Dermatologic Surgery found the strongest evidence for its use on scars, stretch marks and fine lines. It is particularly useful for acne scars, where new collagen gradually fills and softens the indentations. It can also improve wrinkles and fine lines, refresh dull or crepey skin ageing and firm thin or lax skin on the body. By thickening the skin around the pores, it can make large pores appear smaller. The microscopic channels also allow active ingredients to penetrate more deeply, so many people use microneedling to boost the results of targeted serums.
Microneedling can also help with some forms of hyperpigmentation, particularly the marks left behind by acne. However, it requires caution in melasma and on deeper skin tones. Here, overly aggressive treatment can sometimes worsen hyperpigmentation rather than improve it.
Can Microneedling Help with Hair Loss?
In recent years, microneedling has become a popular treatment for hair loss. The same controlled injuries that stimulate collagen in the skin appear to stimulate dormant hair follicles and improve blood supply to the scalp. They also help topical treatments absorb more effectively. The evidence is promising. A 2013 randomised trial found that combining weekly microneedling with topical minoxidil produced significantly more hair growth than minoxidil alone over 12 weeks.
For this reason, people increasingly use microneedling alongside established treatments for female and male pattern hair loss, rather than in their place. On its own, it is not a substitute for medical therapy. However, as an addition to agents like minoxidil or finasteride, it can be a useful way to improve results. If you decide to try it on the scalp, only use short needles, treat the area gently and allow any topical treatment time to absorb.
What’s the Difference Between Professional and At-Home Treatments?
Professional and at-home microneedling work in the same way but reach different depths, which is why they suit different goals.
Professional treatments use longer needles and a powered device, so they penetrate more deeply and produce faster results. They are better suited to established scars, deeper wrinkles and more significant texture, particularly with radiofrequency microneedling. A typical course involves a session every 6 weeks until you reach the result you want. Maintenance then follows every 6 to 12 months. Treatments start from £100 upwards per session depending on size of area and device. Some clinics combine them with a chemical peel for greater resurfacing. The results are long-lasting, although ageing continues over time, so you will need maintenance to preserve and build on them.
At-home microneedling is gentler, more affordable and slower to work. The shorter needles make it safe for unsupervised use but limit how deeply it can act. As such, it suits general texture, mild fine lines and overall radiance better than deep scarring. A good starter kit typically costs between £130 and £200. In general, professional treatments produce faster and more dramatic results, whilst home dermarolling is better for gradual improvement and maintenance. Many people combine the two, using home treatments between professional sessions.
How to Microneedle Safely at Home
At-home microneedling is safe when done correctly but can cause harm if done carelessly. The most important consideration is needle length. Always choose a reputable brand with needles shorter than 0.5mm. Avoid cheap, long-needled devices, which can tear the skin and cause scarring.
Begin by cleansing the skin, then roll gently over each area in vertical, horizontal and diagonal directions. Use light, even pressure and stop if you notice any bleeding or pain. Afterwards, apply a gentle, soothing product such as a hyaluronic acid serum. It is best to avoid stronger actives like Retinoids and vitamin C immediately afterwards especially when you’re first getting started as freshly needled skin absorbs them more intensely and can become irritated. Clean the device with an antibacterial solution and allow it to dry before storing it. Two to three sessions a week is usually sufficient, and most people see results after 8 to 10 weeks of regular use. Avoid microneedling altogether if the skin is broken, sunburnt or experiencing an active flare of acne, eczema or rosacea.
What Works Best Alongside Microneedling?
Microneedling works best as part of a wider skincare routine rather than on its own. For scars and ageing, prescription actives that build collagen over time are an ideal complement. Tretinoin and other retinoids increase cell turnover and thicken the skin over several months. Niacinamide helps to calm and strengthen the skin barrier, and daily sunscreen protects the new collagen. For the marks left behind by acne, gentler fading actives such as azelaic acid and tranexamic acid can help without any needling at all.
On the scalp, the principle is similar. Microneedling can enhance results, but the main effect still comes from established topical treatments such as minoxidil. Used together over time, they tend to be more effective than either one alone.
Microneedling is not a quick fix, and it rewards consistency more than anything else. For deep scarring or more advanced ageing, a course of professional treatments alongside good skincare will produce the fastest results. If you mainly want gradual improvement and maintenance, careful dermarolling at home is a gentler and more affordable option. For hair loss, it works best as a way to enhance treatments that already work. Whichever route you choose, results take time, so patience and a consistent routine matter most.
At City Skin Clinic, we don’t provide microneedling or any in-clinic procedures. We do however offer the personalised prescription skincare and hair treatments that work so well alongside it. Our doctors treat concerns like acne and scarring, hyperpigmentation and skin ageing using actives like tretinoin, azelaic acid and niacinamide where appropriate. They also design bespoke hair loss treatments for men and women with ingredients like minoxidil, spironolactone and finasteride where appropriate. To get started, book a video consultation or complete our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
