Ergothioneine rarely features in mainstream skincare discussions despite being a super interesting antioxidant. Although it is often grouped loosely with more famous antioxidants like vitamin C, ferulic acid or resveratrol, it behaves differently. In this article we’ll explore what exactly ergothioneine is and the evidence for its skin benefits. We’ll consider whether it’s worth adding to your routine. We’ll also review how it compares against other antioxidants and how to use it.
What is Ergothioneine?
This is a naturally occurring sulphur-containing vitamin found naturally in certain foods. Mushrooms are a particularly rich source of ergothioneine but you can also get it from eating beans, garlic and oat bran. The human body absorbs this nutrient through a specific transporter known as OCTN1 (SLC22A4) which then allows ergothioneine to accumulate in various tissues including the skin. Here ergothioneine likely plays a role in protecting cells from ongoing oxidative stress due to UV damage and environmental stressors. It is also possible to synthesise ergothioneine in the lab. This has attracted the attention of skincare companies who are increasingly putting out serums and other products containing ergothioneine.
What are the Benefits of Ergothioneine for Skin?
Ergothioneine has a number of potential skin benefits. These mainly relate to antioxidant protection rather than repair or correction. So in skincare, it is best to think of ergothioneine as a supportive ingredient rather than an active treatment for conditions like skin ageing, acne or hyperpigmentation. Its key benefits for skin include:
- Protection Against Oxidative Stress: Ergothioneine has been shown in laboratory studies to reduce oxidative damage caused by UV exposure and environmental pollutants. These are major drivers of premature skin ageing.
- Skin Barrier Support: By limiting oxidative stress, ergothioneine may support barrier function. This helps skin cope better with daily environmental insults.
- Helps Fade Hyperpigmentation: Ergothioneine may help tackle pigmentary skin problems like hyperpigmentation and melasma. It can indirectly reduce excess melanin production, suppress inflammation and reduce oxidative stress.
- Calms Skin: Research shows that ergothioneine has some anti-inflammatory properties which can potentially help reduce irritation and inflammation in reactive skin conditions like acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
How Does Ergothioneine Compare with Other Antioxidants?
Despite its interesting and distinct mechanism of action, ergothioneine is often grouped together with more common antioxidants. However, these ingredients are not interchangeable and have different uses:
- Vitamin C: This is the OG of antioxidants. Vitamin C and its derivatives have a long-standing track record for protecting against oxidative stress and stimulating collagen production. These actions help improve skin quality, protect against photo-ageing and brighten the skin. Ergothioneine does not replace vitamin C, but it can boost its actions by providing additional antioxidant protection.
- Ferulic acid: This is mainly used to stabilise other antioxidants like vitamin C and enhances photoprotection. Although ergothioneine plays a more direct protective role within cells, it does not have the same stabilising function as ferulic acid.
- Resveratrol: Like ergothioneine, resveratrol has enough laboratory research data to support its potential value as an antioxidant. However, neither ingredient has substantial evidence to fully support their use alone for significant clinical outcomes. Instead, both are likely to be more useful as supportive ingredients.
- Niacinamide: This boosts skin barrier function, reduces inflammation and helps fade hyperpigmentation. Whilst ergothioneine does provide similar benefits, its main function is as an antioxidant and does not provide the same level of anti-inflammatory or pigment-fading properties as niacinamide.
So the big takeaway is that ergothioneine has some overlapping benefits to other more common antioxidants. However, it works best to use it alongside these better known antioxidants rather than as a substitute.
How Do You Use Ergothioneine in Your Skincare Routine?
Ergothioneine is a protective skincare product and not an active treatment. It does not yield instant or dramatic results and is best to think of it as something that will help boost your skin’s health long term. Here are our top tips for incorporating ergothioneine into your skincare routine:
- Leave-on Formulations: Ergothioneine is best used as a leave-on product. Serums or moisturisers allow ongoing exposure to help deliver its protective antioxidant benefits.
- Complementary Ingredients: Remember that ergothioneine is a supporting ingredient. It works well alongside vitamin C, ferulic acid and niacinamide. You can either layer it with products containing these or, to make life easier, find a formula that contains ergothioneine and at least one of these other ingredients.
- Morning Use: Antioxidants are most useful during the day to help protect against UV-induced and environmental oxidative stress.
- Don’t Forget the Basics: There’s no point in using antioxidants or any other anti-ageing or pigment-fading products if you don’t take care of the biggest cause of these problems. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30.
- Actives Still Matter: Ergothioneine is not going to do much by itself. For best results use it as a supporting ingredient alongside stronger actives. These include retinoids like tretinoin, pigment suppressors like hydroquinone or arbutin and exfoliating acids. Together these tackle conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation and skin ageing.
- Steady Wins the Race: This is not generally an ingredient that needs cycling or escalation. For best results use ergothioneine regularly and consistently as part of your overall skincare routine.
Is Ergothioneine Safe?
Ergothioneine is generally well tolerated. Whilst irritation is uncommon, it can still occur, particularly in people with very reactive or compromised skin. Always perform a patch test before using a new skincare product and if you have sensitive skin, avoid formulations that also contain irritating ingredients. As with most skincare ingredients, there is not much safety data during pregnancy and breastfeeding. As such, it is safest to avoid it during these periods and opt for a pregnancy safe skincare routine.
Ergothioneine is an interesting antioxidant with an emerging role in protecting the skin against environmental stress and oxidative damage. Despite the growing buzz around it, it is not a stand-alone ingredient and is unlikely to produce dramatic visible changes on its own. It is also probably not useful as an antioxidant by itself given that stronger ones exist. The best use of ergothioneine is as a supporting ingredient in a routine alongside other protective and active skincare ingredients.
At City Skin Clinic, we are beyond passionate about personalised skincare. Our virtual skin clinic offers safe and effective bespoke skin treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as tretinoin, hydroquinone, azelaic acid and tranexamic acid to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Start your online consultation today. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
