Polynucleotide injections, sometimes labelled salmon sperm facials in the headlines, have become one of the most talked-about treatments in aesthetic medicine. Despite the silly nickname, they are not facials at all but injectable skin boosters. The appeal is the promise to revive and repair the skin from within, and they are even used on tricky areas such as under-eye wrinkles and dark circles. So do they actually live up to the hype? In this article, we explore the science behind polynucleotides, how they work, their safety and what to expect.
What are Polynucleotides?
Polynucleotides are naturally occurring chains of nucleotides, the basic building blocks of DNA and RNA. In skincare, they are usually sourced from the DNA of salmon tissue because it is highly compatible with human tissue. These molecules are thought to support skin repair and regeneration by stimulating cell activity. Their main mechanism is to switch on fibroblasts, the cells that produce collagen, elastin and the other components of the skin’s extracellular matrix.
Fibroblast activity tends to decline with age and with rapid changes in metabolism. This decline drives the visible signs of ageing, such as wrinkles, sagging and loss of elasticity. The theory is that polynucleotides reactivate these cells, which in turn boosts collagen and helps repair damaged tissue. The result, over time, is firmer and more youthful-looking skin. Polynucleotides also attract and hold water, which improves hydration and gives a plumping effect. For this reason they are often used in areas prone to dryness such as the under-eye region. It may sound too good to be true, and there is some research suggesting that polynucleotide injections can improve elasticity, texture and hydration. However, a recent systematic review found only nine studies of low to moderate quality, so the evidence is still limited and not conclusive.
In aesthetic medicine, polynucleotide injections deliver a strong dose of these molecules straight into the dermal layers of the skin. Once injected, they may activate fibroblasts and, over time, support tissue repair and improve skin structure. The main reported benefits are:
- Improved hydration and a plumper look.
- Better elasticity and firmness.
- Softer fine lines and wrinkles.
- A more even, brighter skin tone.
- Targeted treatment of specific areas, such as under the eyes.
These treatments are non-surgical and usually involve minimal downtime, which makes them appealing to people who want gradual change without an invasive procedure.
How Do Polynucleotides Work as Skin Boosters and Under-Eye Treatments?
As skin boosters, polynucleotides treat broader zones such as the face, neck or décolletage. Unlike traditional fillers, which add volume to a specific spot, skin boosters aim to lift overall skin quality through hydration, elasticity and firmness. They have also grown popular for the delicate under-eye area, where they regenerate thin skin and soften dark circles and fine lines. The main qualities that drive this use are:
- Biocompatibility: Polynucleotides come from natural sources and are generally well tolerated by the body.
- Gradual, long-lasting results: Because they improve the skin’s own function rather than simply adding volume, the results may last longer than temporary treatments.
- Minimal downtime: This is a minimally invasive procedure, and most people have only mild swelling or redness afterwards.
- Natural-looking improvements: Since the effect comes from the skin’s own regeneration, the changes tend to look subtle.
Polynucleotides are biocompatible and biodegradable, so the body gradually absorbs them whilst the skin continues to heal and renew. Most people notice improvement within a few weeks, with the best results after a course of sessions.
What Happens During Polynucleotide Treatment?
Polynucleotide treatment should only be carried out in a clinical setting by a trained healthcare professional. After a thorough consultation to assess the skin, the practitioner injects the polynucleotides into the target areas with a fine needle.
The procedure usually takes 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the area. Some people feel mild pain, though a topical numbing cream can ease this. Temporary swelling or redness at the injection sites is common, but it usually settles within a few hours to a day.
How Many Sessions Do I Need and When Will I See Results?
You will need more than one session for the best results. Many practitioners suggest three to four treatments spaced a few weeks apart, depending on your skin and your goals. Results tend to build gradually, with improvements in texture, hydration and elasticity becoming clearer over several weeks or months. How long they last varies with skin type, lifestyle and the specific protocol. Some people therefore choose maintenance treatments to keep the benefits going.
What Are the Risks, Side Effects and Contraindications?
Polynucleotide skin boosters are generally considered safe and well tolerated, but there are still risks and side effects to know about. The main ones are:
- Temporary redness, swelling or bruising at the injection sites, which usually fades within a few hours to a few days.
- Mild pain during or after the procedure, though this is normally minimal.
- Rarely, an allergic reaction to the solution, particularly in people sensitive to the ingredients.
Polynucleotide injections are not appropriate in some situations, including pregnancy, breastfeeding and active skin infection or inflammation in the treatment area, especially around the eyes. Anyone with an autoimmune condition or a tendency to keloid scarring should also check with their medical provider first. As with any clinical procedure, a thorough in-person consultation is essential. It confirms the treatment is right for you and weighs any risks against your medical history.
What Are the Alternatives to Polynucleotides?
Several other treatments target similar concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles and texture. Most are in-person procedures and include the below:
- Hyaluronic acid fillers: Dermal fillers add volume and hydration. In the right hands they can plump the skin and smooth fine lines, especially around the eyes and cheeks.
- Skin booster injections: Hyaluronic acid boosters such as Profhilo and Volite encourage fibroblasts to make more collagen, which helps with hydration and ageing. You can read more in our skin boosters guide.
- Microneedling: Microneedling uses tiny needles to create micro-injuries that prompt collagen production. Both traditional and radiofrequency versions can improve texture and soften scars and fine lines.
- PRP (platelet-rich plasma): This uses a small sample of your own blood to encourage healing and regeneration, which can brighten tone and soften lines.
- Chemical peels: Chemical peels remove the outer layer of dead skin cells which helps with texture, uneven skin tone and fine lines.
- Laser resurfacing: Laser treatment stimulates collagen and resurfaces the skin to soften wrinkles, scars and uneven tone.
- Botox: Botox reduces dynamic wrinkles by temporarily relaxing the facial muscles that cause them.
- Retinoids: Topical over-the-counter and prescription Retinoids such as tretinoin speed up cell turnover and collagen production. Over time this improves texture, softens lines and helps with hyperpigmentation.
Polynucleotide skin boosters are an emerging option for people seeking non-invasive ways to improve skin quality and treat delicate areas like the under eyes. By increasing collagen, boosting hydration and driving cell renewal, they may offer real benefits. The evidence so far is promising but limited, however, and there are risks. A face-to-face consultation with a qualified provider who offers many different treatment options is the best way to star. They will then help you decide what is the best treatment for you.
Please note, we are an online skin clinic so we do not offer polynucleotide injections or other injectable treatments. We have written this article because we believe people deserve clear, honest information about all of their options.
At City Skin Clinic, we are big fans of personalised skincare. Many of the concerns polynucleotides target, from skin ageing to under-eye texture, also respond well to topical skin treatments. Our doctors design bespoke skincare treatments using ingredients such as tretinoin and hydroquinone where appropriate. We also treat acne and scarring, hyperpigmentation and melasma. To start, book a video consultation or complete our online consultation form. Your journey towards great skin and hair starts here.
This article is intended for general education purpose only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
