Salicylic acid is an absolute juggernaut of a beauty ingredient, and we’re not just talking about the skin. Beyond its normal uses as an exfoliant in skincare, salicylic acid has a number of benefits. These can help improve the health and appearance of your skin, hair and scalp. In this guide, we explore how this famous beta hydroxy acid (BHA) benefits your skin and hair. We also review the best ways to use it in your skincare and hair care routine.
What is Salicylic Acid?
This is an oil-soluble BHA that can penetrate deep into the skin’s layers. It works by dissolving the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together, which causes exfoliation. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water-soluble and mainly work on the skin’s surface. By contrast, salicylic acid can get into pores and unclog them. This makes it a good choice for oily or acne-prone skin types. In addition, it has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which make it useful for skin, scalp and hair care.
| Salicylic acid | At a glance |
|---|---|
| Type | oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid (BHA) |
| Best for | oily and acne-prone skin, congested scalp |
| Skin benefits | clears acne, controls oil, smooths texture, calms redness |
| Hair benefits | exfoliates the scalp, reduces dandruff and build-up |
| Typical strength | 0.5% to 2% over the counter |
| How often | start 1 to 2 times a week, then build up |
| Avoid if | pregnant, breastfeeding, or allergic to aspirin |
Benefits of Salicylic Acid for Skin
Salicylic acid has a long history as an exfoliant in skincare and is a popular staple in many beauty routines. Below are the biggest benefits of salicylic acid for skin:
- Clearing acne & blemishes: one of its primary uses in skincare is as an acne treatment. By breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, it prevents clogging in the pores. Its antimicrobial actions can also help tackle acne-causing bacteria. These actions can clear blackheads and whiteheads, and help reduce inflammatory acne lesions.
- Controlling oil production: salicylic acid can also help regulate sebum (oil) production, which is a driver of acne breakouts.
- Tackling dullness, texture & wrinkles: the exfoliant action of salicylic acid helps make skin smoother and brighter. It can treat texture as well as fine lines and wrinkles.
- Reducing inflammation & redness: salicylic acid’s anti-inflammatory properties can help people with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin. It can help calm redness and skin irritation.
- Minimising the appearance of pores: although pore size is largely genetic, clogged pores can often appear larger. By keeping pores clear and regulating oil, salicylic acid reduces their visibility.
Benefits of Salicylic Acid for Scalp & Hair
Salicylic acid is also good for scalp and hair health. It can be a real game-changer, especially if you’re struggling with excess oil, dandruff or limp hair. The main benefits of using salicylic acid for the scalp and hair include:
- Exfoliating dead skin & dandruff: salicylic acid exfoliates the scalp, helping to remove dead skin cells and reduce flaking. This exfoliating action and its antimicrobial effects can also help treat dandruff.
- Reducing sebum & oil build-up: excess oil on the scalp can lead to greasiness, seborrhoeic dermatitis and scalp acne. Salicylic acid reduces this oiliness to keep your scalp cleaner for longer.
- Enhancing hair growth: salicylic acid helps unclog hair follicles and cleans the scalp through its exfoliating, oil-regulating and antimicrobial effects. Its anti-inflammatory properties also soothe scalp irritation. These actions support a healthy scalp and create a better environment for hair growth.
- Reducing product build-up: with frequent use of hair products, build-up can occur on both the scalp and hair strands. This leads to dullness and weighed-down hair. Salicylic acid helps dissolve this build-up. As such, it leaves hair feeling lighter and looking more voluminous.
- Improving hair texture & shine: when the scalp is free of excess oil and flakiness, hair naturally appears shinier and more manageable. As such, salicylic acid can make hair look and feel softer, smoother and more vibrant.
How to Use Salicylic Acid in Your Skincare & Hair Routine
Salicylic acid is available mainly as an exfoliant in various forms of skincare. The most common are cleansers, toners, serums and spot treatments. Cleansers and toners are ideal for daily or every-other-day use. This gradually improves and maintains clear skin. Serums, masks, peels and spot treatments are best for targeting fresh acne breakouts and blemishes. If you are a beginner, start once or twice a week. Use a lower strength (around 0.5% to 2%) in a wash-off formula like a cleanser. This gives your skin time to adjust. As your skin builds tolerance, you can gradually increase the frequency or use a leave-on product. Whatever you do, be sure to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen, because salicylic acid makes your skin sensitive to sunlight.
There is still less hype about salicylic acid in scalp and hair care. As such, you will normally find it in specialised shampoos or scalp treatments for dandruff. It is also increasingly common in clarifying shampoos and scalp scrubs. These products are best used once or twice a week to avoid over-drying or irritating your scalp. If you are a newbie, it’s probably best to start with a shampoo once a week. You can then increase the frequency or move to a scalp mask or conditioner.
Potential Side Effects & Risks
Although salicylic acid is a well-studied and safe product, as with any active ingredient, it can cause some problems. The main risks are dryness, irritation and peeling, especially when overused. To avoid this, it’s important to follow product instructions and introduce it slowly into your routine. You should also be more cautious if you have sensitive skin, and always patch-test first to check for allergies. When using it on the scalp, those with dry hair might benefit from a moisturising conditioner to keep hydration balanced.
As with anything in life, salicylic acid is also not for everyone. You cannot use it if you are pregnant or breastfeeding. It is also off-limits if you have an allergy to aspirin or willow bark. If you have any skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis or rosacea, discuss with your doctor first. The same goes for any major health condition. There is also a risk of irritation if you use other actives like Retinoids, azelaic acid or vitamin C. So proceed with caution. Always check with your doctor before using it alongside prescription skincare or hair treatments.
So it turns out that salicylic acid is more than just another exfoliant. It has a number of benefits for the skin, scalp and hair. This multi-functional ingredient might be the secret to glowing skin and healthier hair. However, nothing works overnight and there are no silver bullets. It’s also not for everyone, and only works as part of a consistent skin, scalp and hair care routine. If you want to try salicylic acid, start with a cautious approach. Then build up as your skin and scalp tolerate it.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skin and hair care. Our doctors offer safe and effective custom treatments using ingredients like tretinoin, azelaic acid, niacinamide and minoxidil where appropriate, through our online clinic. Our doctors treat acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma, rosacea, skin ageing and hair loss through bespoke compounded treatments designed around you. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any health concerns or questions you might have.
