In the world of skincare, it can be confusing what different products do and which is right for you. Beta hydroxy acids are a good example. Beta hydroxy acids seem to be everywhere, yet few people know how and when to use them. Commonly known as BHAs, these are a type of exfoliant widely available across a variety of skincare products. BHAs are most commonly derived from salicylic acid and are particularly beneficial for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. Below we shed some light on how beta hydroxy acids work and how to use them for best effect.
How Do BHAs Work in the Skin?
One of the main benefits of BHAs is that they are oil-soluble. This gives them the ability to penetrate deep into the pores. Unlike alpha hydroxy acid exfoliants, which mainly work on the surface, BHAs reach the layers underneath. There they remove excess oil, dirt and other impurities that can clog pores and lead to breakouts. They also help to reduce the secretion of sebum. This deep-cleansing action helps to prevent the formation of new acne and improve the overall appearance of the skin. For a fuller picture of how BHAs sit alongside AHAs and PHAs, see our guide to the different exfoliating acids.
Are BHAs Anti-inflammatory and Antibacterial?
In addition to their ability to cleanse the pores, BHAs also have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. This makes them effective at reducing the redness and swelling associated with acne. They can also help reduce the bacteria that contribute to acne breakouts. This combination is part of why salicylic acid has such a long track record in treating acne.
Can BHAs Improve Texture and Ageing?
A key benefit of BHAs is that they can work on both the superficial layers of the skin and reach deep into the pores. Through this mechanism they speed up the shedding of dead cells and unclog pores. This helps smooth out rough, uneven skin and improve overall skin texture. The same action can also fade dark patches due to hyperpigmentation caused by acne or sun damage. BHAs are also able to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They do so by exfoliating the skin and supporting collagen production. All this helps to give a more radiant and youthful-looking complexion.
How Do You Use BHAs Safely?
Unlike some exfoliants that can be harsh and irritating, BHAs are relatively gentle and effective. This can make them a good choice for people with sensitive skin and for routines that include other active products. They are, however, generally best avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding, especially in leave-on or higher-strength products, and should not be used if you have an allergy to salicylic acid. Although BHAs are generally considered safe for most people, they can cause some side effects. The most common are dryness, redness and irritation. As with any skincare product, there is also a small risk of an allergic reaction. As with any topical treatment, you should always perform a patch test to check it agrees with your skin. If you experience any of these side effects, you should stop use and consult a doctor.
What Are the Main Types of BHAs?
BHAs are found in a wide variety of products including cleansers, toners, serums and moisturisers. They can be found alone or formulated in combination with other ingredients, such as other exfoliating acids, retinol and vitamin C. The main types of beta hydroxy acid in skincare are:
- Salicylic acid: this is by far the most common BHA in skincare. It comes from willow bark and is an oil-soluble acid that can penetrate the skin to dissolve dead skin cells and excess oil. Salicylic acid is effective in treating acne, blackheads and whiteheads. It can also help to reduce inflammation and improve the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
- Betaine salicylate: this is a newer BHA that derives from sugar beet. It is similar to salicylic acid in its properties, but it is less irritating to the skin. Betaine salicylate is a good option for people with sensitive skin who are looking for a BHA.
- Trethocanic acid: this less common BHA originates from pine bark. It is similar to salicylic acid in its properties, but more potent. Trethocanic acid may be a good option for people with severe acne who have not responded to other treatments.
How Do You Use BHAs with Other Products?
One of the main benefits of BHAs is their ability to work well with other skincare products, such as tretinoin, to treat conditions like acne, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. BHAs also work alongside pigment suppressors such as arbutin, kojic acid and hydroquinone or brightening agents like vitamin C. This helps fade dark patches and even out the skin tone.
When introducing BHAs into your routine, it’s very important to take stock of any other active products you’re using, as that will impact how often and when you can use beta hydroxy acids. For example, if you regularly use a retinol or retinoid at night, then it makes more sense to use a BHA in the morning or on nights you aren’t using your retinoid, to avoid irritation. The same is true if you are using a vitamin C in the morning but no active products in the evening. In that case, you may find it best to use your BHA in the evenings.
Regardless of when you use it and what other active products you have, exfoliating acids can have a drying and irritating effect on the skin. To counteract this and maintain the skin’s barrier, it’s best to introduce them gradually and use them alongside hydrating serums and occlusive moisturisers in your routine.
The benefits of BHAs for the skin are numerous. They are able to penetrate deep into the pores, removing excess oil and impurities that can cause acne breakouts. They also have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making them effective at reducing the redness and swelling associated with acne. BHAs can also improve the texture of the skin and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles. They can even be gentle enough for individuals with sensitive skin. Overall, BHAs are a powerful and effective addition to any skincare routine if used responsibly and introduced gradually.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online clinic offers safe and effective treatments using ingredients like tretinoin and hydroquinone where appropriate. Our doctors treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin or treatment options.
