POSTED: 11 Aug 2024

Everything You Need to Know About Compounded Skincare & How it’s Revolutionising Dermatology

In recent years, the world of skincare has seen a shift towards personalised treatments. One of the biggest reasons for this is the increase of availability and access to compounded skincare. This is a bespoke method that provides tailor made prescription and non prescription skincare treatments. There’s nothing new about pharmaceutical compounding but, until recently in the UK and most countries, you could only get it through certain dermatologists and compounding chemists. It was also only available for compound prescription medicine rather than a wider range of skincare. The drive for personalisation is due to the explosion in compound skincare in the USA and embrace of telehealth since the pandemic. In this article, we explore pharmaceutical compounding and how it compares with standard prescription skincare. We also examine the regulations around compound pharmacies and medications in the UK.

What are Compounded Medicines?

Compounded medicines are custom-made medications prepared by a specialist pharmacist to meet the specific needs of an individual patient. Unlike mass-produced pharmaceuticals, which are manufactured in standard dosages and formulations, compounded medications are tailored to the unique requirements of a patient based on a prescription from a healthcare provider. This customisation can involve altering the dosage, combining multiple active ingredients, or modifying the delivery method. The underlying aim is to suit the patient’s preferences or medical condition. Compounded medications are particularly beneficial for patients who need a specific medication that is not commercially available, such as those with allergies to certain ingredients, children who require lower dosages, or individuals needing a different form of a medication, like a liquid instead of a pill. In the UK, and elsewhere, these medicines are carefully prepared in a compounding pharmacy, where trained chemists follow strict guidelines to ensure safety, efficacy, and quality.

How do They Differ from Regular Medicines?

Compounding has a long history in the UK, dating back to the early apothecaries who prepared medicines by hand for their local communities. This tradition of personalised medicine has evolved over the centuries, but the core principle remains the same—creating tailored treatments that meet the unique needs of individual patients.

Compounded medicines differ from regular medicines not only in their customisation but also in their regulatory and licensing frameworks. Regular medicines are mass-produced by pharmaceutical companies under strict regulatory oversight, including comprehensive clinical trials and approval processes by bodies like the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA). These medicines are manufactured in standard dosages and formulations, ensuring consistency and safety for the general population. In contrast, compounded medicines are custom-made by a licensed compounding pharmacist based on a prescription tailored to an individual patient’s specific needs. Although compounded medicines do not undergo the same extensive approval process as regular medicines (this is impossible given each treatment in theory differs for each patient based on their needs), they are still subject to extremely stringent regulations. This ensures that compounded medicines are prepared in controlled environments with meticulous attention to detail, from the quality of ingredients to the accuracy of dosage.

Regulation of Compound Pharmacies & the Role of a Compounding Chemist in the UK

In the UK, compound pharmacies operate under strict regulations set by the General Pharmaceutical Council (GPhC), which ensures that all compounded medicines are prepared safely, effectively and to the highest standards. The GPhC enforces guidelines that require UK compounding pharmacies to adhere to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP), ensuring that each medication is produced in a controlled environment with precise measurements and sterile conditions.

The role of a compounding chemist in this process is crucial in the UK. These pharmacists are specially trained to prepare bespoke compounded medications and skincare tailored to individual patient needs. They must possess in-depth knowledge of drug interactions, stability and appropriate compounding techniques to create safe and effective formulations. Beyond the technical aspects, compounding chemists are also responsible for maintaining detailed records, conducting quality control tests and ensuring that all compounded products meet the specific requirements of the prescription. Their expertise and adherence to regulatory standards ensure that patients receive personalised treatments that are both safe and precisely tailored to their health needs.

What’s the Difference Between Compounding & Regular Pharmacies?

Compounding pharmacies and regular pharmacies serve distinct roles within the healthcare system. This is primarily differentiated by the types of services they offer. Regular pharmacies focus on dispensing mass-produced medications. These are manufactured by pharmaceutical companies in standard dosages and forms, such as tablets, capsules or creams. These pharmacies ensure accurate prescription filling and provide patient counselling on the use of these ready-made medications. They do not make or modify medicines. In contrast, compounding pharmacies specialise in creating customised medications including skincare tailored to the unique needs of individual patients. Key differences include:

  • Customisation: Compounding pharmacists formulate medications in unique dosages or forms that are not commercially available. Examples include converting a tablet into a liquid for easier use or providing a gel instead of a cream.
  • Combination of Ingredients: They can combine multiple drugs into a single formulation to simplify treatment.
  • Specialised Equipment & Training: Compounding pharmacists require specialised equipment and training. They also need to adhere to stricter regulatory standards to ensure safety and efficacy.

In short, regular pharmacies offer standardised off-the-shelf solutions and compounding ones provide a bespoke approach. Each has its benefits and limitations as such their value is when used appropriately.

What is Compounded Skincare?

Compounded skincare is a bespoke approach to skincare treatment where products are custom-formulated by a pharmacist or compounding chemist to address the specific needs of an individual’s skin. Unlike off-the-shelf products, which are designed to suit a broad audience, compounded skincare is tailored to the unique skin type, condition and preferences of the patient. This personalisation can involve adjusting the concentration of active ingredients, combining multiple agents into a single formulation, or even altering the texture and delivery method of the product. Compounded skincare can be used for both prescription and non-prescription treatments.

For prescription treatments, a dermatologist or healthcare provider prescribes a specific formulation to target conditions such as acne, eczema, rosacea, skin ageing or hyperpigmentation, ensuring the treatment is precisely what the patient needs. For non-prescription treatments, compounded skincare can offer a more personalised approach to addressing general concerns like improving skin quality texture, hydration and brightening to provide tailored solutions that standard over-the-counter products may not be able to achieve. This highly individualised approach not only enhances the effectiveness of the treatment but also minimises the risk of adverse reactions. This makes compounded skincare the ultimate solution for those seeking an holistic approach to skincare centred around their individual needs and goals.

Differences Between Compounded Prescription Skincare and Standard Off-the-Shelf Prescription Solutions

The key differences between compounded prescription skincare and standard off-the-shelf prescription solutions lies in their level of customisation. Standard off-the-shelf prescription solutions are mass-produced and designed to cater to a broad audience with similar skin concerns. These products, while effective for many, come in fixed formulations and strengths. This means they cannot be adjusted to suit specific skin types, sensitivities or unique conditions. Off-the-shelf prescription brands like Obagi and generics offer products to target conditions such as acne or hyperpigmentation. However, the formulations are standard across all users. As such they may not accommodate someone with allergies to certain ingredients or the need for a different dosage.

In contrast, compounded prescription skincare is entirely bespoke. It is formulated by a specialist pharmacist based on a prescription designed to address the precise needs of each patient. This means that the active ingredients, their concentrations and even the base can be tailored to achieve this. For example, if a patient has both acne and sensitive skin, a compounding pharmacist can create a product that balances acne-fighting ingredients with soothing agents. Unlike standard solutions, compounded skincare can also be continually adjusted based on how the skin responds throughout the treatment journey. This offers a level of personalisation and effectiveness that off-the-shelf products simply cannot match. However, the standardisation of regular pharmaceutical products is based on extensive testing. So for the majority of people, they are likely to work and be safe if used appropriately.

What’s the Process of Compounding Skincare

Compounding skincare involves several steps to ensure that the final product is safe and effective for the patient. This process involves:

  • Consultation: The secret to successful treatment is a thorough consultation with a doctor or other healthcare provider. They need to have training and experience in prescribing compound skincare. They will assess the patient’s skin concern, medical history and skincare history. They will then design a treatment protocol catering to the patient’s specific skin needs, goals and preference.
  • Prescription: Your healthcare provider writes a detailed prescription outlining the specific ingredients, their concentrations and the desired formulation. This prescription is then sent to a compounding pharmacy who also review it for accuracy.
  • Compounding: Trained compounding chemists meticulously prepares the skincare product according to the prescription using GMP. This process involves precise measurements and mixing of ingredients to create a uniform and effective formulation.
  • Quality Control: Each individual compounded product undergoes rigorous quality control checks to ensure its safety, efficacy and stability. These checks may include testing for potency, purity and consistency.
  • Dispensation: Once the product has passed all quality control checks, it is dispensed to the patient. The patient also receives detailed instructions on how to use the product. This includes application frequency and any precautions to be taken from their doctor.
  • Monitoring: Patients receive ongoing aftercare and monitoring from their prescriber. Additionally, your doctor may adapt your next treatment to take into account how your skin responded to the first course. This usually involves adjusting strengths or ingredients or base.

Where to Get Compounded Prescription Skincare in the UK

For a long time, compounded medicines where the reserve of those with ability to see a specialist Dermatologist. This is because the number of available compounding chemists and providers in the UK were very small. However, in recent years, compound prescription skincare has become more accessible. This is in large part due to telehealth skin platform such as City Skin Clinic, Skin+Me, Hims and Dermatica. They offer treatments with prescription strength ingredients like Tretinoin and Hydroquinone. Through these online clinics, patient can access personalised treatments for a number of skin conditions following a consultation. These companies work directly with specialist compounding pharmacies in the UK whose chemists formulate and deliver treatments to the patients. This has made prescription strength compound skincare more easily accessible and affordable.

Compounding skincare is a real sea-change when it comes to providing personalised skincare treatments. It allows doctors and healthcare providers to design solutions that directly address each individuals needs and preferences. Traditionally, access to this has been for those with extreme needs or financial means. This is due to the level of specialisation and strict regulations governing compound pharmacies and chemists in the UK. However, with the growing adoption of teleheath in dermatology, compound prescription skincare treatments are more widely accessible and affordable. We also expect that this will usher in a new era of personalisation for non prescriptions skincare also.

At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare and hair regrowth treatments. Our online skin clinic offers safe and effective compound skincare treatments with prescription-strength ingredients including Tretinoin and Hydroquinone. Our doctors treat a range of conditions such as acne and scars, hyperpigmentationmelasmaskin ageing. We also provide prescription strength hair loss treatments using ingredients like Minoxidil, Finasetride and Dutasteride where appropriate. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.

Authored by:

Dr Amel Ibrahim
Aesthetic Doctor & Medical Director
BSC (HONS) MBBS MRCS PHD
Founder City Skin Clinic
Member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England
Associate Member of British Association of Body Sculpting GMC Registered - 7049611

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