The Definitive Guide to Chemical Peels

Chemical peels use a controlled application of acid to exfoliate the skin and trigger renewal. Depending on their strength, they can brighten dull skin, soften fine lines, fade hyperpigmentation and improve acne and scarring. Superficial peels are gentle and need a course. Deeper peels do more but carry more downtime and risk. Like most resurfacing treatments, peels work best as part of a wider plan built around the right prescription topicals, rather than as a one-off fix.

Please note, we are an entirely online skin and hair clinic, so we do not offer chemical peels. We used to provide them at our former physical clinic, but we now exclusively offer topical skincare treatments that peels work best alongside.

What is a Chemical Peel?

A chemical peel is a solution of one or more acids applied to the skin to remove its outer layers in a controlled way. This sounds dramatic, but it is simply a faster version of something the skin does anyway. By dissolving the bonds between dead surface cells, a peel speeds up cell turnover and prompts the skin to regenerate. Deeper peels reach further and can even stimulate fresh collagen production. The acids for chemical peels fall into a few families:

  • Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid are water-soluble and work on the surface.
  • Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid are oil-soluble and so they get into pores.
  • Stronger peels like trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and phenol reach deeper.

The mechanism by which they work is why chemical peels vary so much in what they can do.

What Are the Different Types of Chemical Peels?

Peels are grouped by how deeply they work. Depth determines both what a peel can achieve and how much downtime and risk it carries. There are three broad categories:

  • Superficial peels: These work on the surface layer of the skin. They use gentle acids like glycolic (around 20 to 50%), lactic (20 to 30%) and mandelic acid or salicylic acid (20 to 30%) for oily and acne-prone skin. Gentle enzyme peels using papain or bromelain also sit at the mildest end. They brighten, smooth and refresh with little to no downtime, but they need a course to build results.
  • Medium peels: These reach the upper dermis and do more for hyperpigmentation, sun damage, fine lines and superficial scarring. They typically use TCA (around 15 to 35%) or a Jessner’s solution (a mix of salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol). A medium peel involves a week or so of visible peeling as the skin renews.
  • Deep peels: These use phenol to reach the deeper dermis and produce the most dramatic change for severe sun damage and deep scarring. However, they require sedation, weeks of recovery and carry serious risks. Laser resurfacing has largely replaced deep peels, so they are now uncommon.

A useful rule runs through all three. The deeper a peel goes, the more it can achieve, but the more downtime and risk it carries. This is why the right peel depends entirely on the concern, the skin type and the hands applying it.

What Do Chemical Peels Treat?

Because the family spans such a range of depths and acids, peels can address a wide spread of concerns. The trick is matching the right acid and depth to the problem. The main uses for chemical peels are to treat:

  • Dullness & texture: A superficial glycolic or lactic peel lifts dead surface cells to reveal brighter, smoother skin. Enzyme peels do the same job even more gently. This is the most popular use.
  • Hyperpigmentation & sun damage: Glycolic, mandelic and salicylic peels can fade sun spots, post-inflammatory marks and uneven tone by speeding up the shedding of pigment-laden cells. They are also useful for treating milder forms of hyperpigmentation.
  • Acne: Salicylic acid peels suit oily, acne-prone skin because the acid is oil-soluble, so it clears pores and calms inflammation. Glycolic and mandelic peels and Jessner’s solution can help too. We cover this in more detail below.
  • Fine lines & early ageing: Medium glycolic and TCA peels stimulate collagen, which can soften fine lines and improve skin ageing.
  • Scarring: Medium TCA peels can improve the texture of acne scars, particularly when combined with microneedling.

It is worth being realistic about results. Peels improve the skin you have, but they do not change its underlying tendencies. Acne, hyperpigmentation and ageing can return if the original triggers remain, so daily sunscreen and a good topical routine matter as much as the peel itself.

Are Chemical Peels Safe for Darker Skin?

Peels can be used safely in darker skin, but the choice of acid matters enormously. The reason is that any treatment which inflames the skin can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones. The deeper and more aggressive the peel, the higher that risk.

A few principles keep peels safe in skin of colour. Superficial peels are the safest choice. Of these, salicylic acid is both safe and effective for acne, melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in Fitzpatrick types V and VI, partly because it is anti-inflammatory in its own right. Mandelic and lactic acid are also gentle, because their larger molecules penetrate slowly and evenly. Glycolic acid is effective too, and serial glycolic peels improve post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in darker skin. However, it is a small, fast-penetrating molecule, so it irritates more readily. For that reason it is started at a lower strength, built up gradually and usually paired with a targeted topical skincare routine. By contrast, medium-depth TCA peels carry a documented risk of dyspigmentation in darker skin and need real caution. One review of high-strength glycolic and TCA peels in Fitzpatrick V to VI found irritation in over three quarters of patients and transient hyperpigmentation in around one in eight.

Two further things lower the risk. Priming the skin beforehand with a pigment-suppressing topical (such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid or niacinamide) can reduce post-peel hyperpigmentation. Also, the experience of the practitioner matters more than anything. If you have a deeper skin tone, choose someone who treats skin like yours regularly. Our posts on skincare for skin of colour and treating hyperpigmentation in dark skin go into this in more depth.

Do Chemical Peels Treat Melasma?

Melasma deserves its own note of caution. It is a chronic, relapsing form of hyperpigmentation driven by hormones, heat and UV light. It is also easily provoked. Superficial chemical peels can help fade melasma as part of a wider plan. Glycolic, salicylic and mandelic peels are the gentlest options. In fact, serial glycolic peels alongside topical azelaic acid and adapalene improve stubborn melasma. However, peels also cause inflammation, and inflammation can restimulate the very pigment cells that drive melasma. This is why an aggressive peel can leave melasma worse than before, and why medium-depth peels are generally considered high-risk here.

The bigger issue is that melasma comes back. In one study of peels in darker skin, melasma recurred in around 70% of patients within twelve weeks of stopping. For most people, then, melasma is better managed first with prescription topical treatment and strict sun protection. A gentle peel is a supportive adjunct but can never be the main treatment. Actives like hydroquinone, tretinoin and tranexamic acid target the pigment directly. Our posts on getting rid of melasma and melasma maintenance explain how to keep it under control for the long term.

Can Chemical Peels Treat Acne & Acne Scars?

Peels have two distinct roles in acne, and it helps to separate them. For active acne, salicylic acid chemical peels are the mainstay. As a beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it penetrates pores to clear debris, reduce sebum and calm inflammation. Glycolic and mandelic peels and Jessner’s solution can help here too. That said, peels are an adjunct to proper acne treatment, not a replacement, and most people get further with prescription topicals first.

For acne scarring, peels come into their own as part of a combination. Medium peels can soften the texture of pitted scars by stimulating collagen. Crucially, the evidence points to combinations working best. A 2024 network meta-analysis found that microneedling combined with chemical peels produced the best results of any combination tested for atrophic acne scars. We explain how the two treatments work together in more detail in our post on chemical peels and microneedling. For most people, the best results come from an approach that clears the acne first, then addresses any scarring once breakouts settle.

What Does a Chemical Peel Involve?

A professional peel always starts with a consultation to assess your skin and choose the right peel and strength. The treatment itself is straightforward. Your practitioner cleanses the skin and applies a prep to remove oils, then applies the peel with a brush, gauze or cotton pad. Sometimes they layer it for a stronger effect. The peel is left on for a set time that depends on its type and how your skin responds. A glycolic peel, for example, is usually left on for only a few minutes. Some peels are then neutralised to stop them working, whilst others self-neutralise.

Downtime depends entirely on depth. A superficial peel causes little more than a few hours of mild redness, so it suits a quick refresh. A medium peel involves visible flaking and peeling for around a week as the skin renews. A deep peel needs weeks of recovery and careful aftercare. Whatever the depth, the skin is more vulnerable to UV afterwards, so daily sunscreen is essential to protect the result and prevent further hyperpigmentation. Our guide to chemical peel aftercare covers how to look after your skin in the days that follow.

Can You Do Chemical Peels at Home?

At-home peels exist, but they are less powerful, and that is a good thing. Consumer products use low concentrations of gentle acids, so they work only on the surface. Used sensibly, they can brighten and smooth much like a mild superficial peel. They will not match a professional peel, and they cannot safely reach the depth needed for scarring or stubborn hyperpigmentation. The acids worth looking for, and the strengths to expect in safe at home chemical peels are:

  • Glycolic acid (up to around 10%): A good all-rounder for dullness and texture. Professional peels run far higher, so home versions are gentler by design.
  • Lactic acid (up to around 10%): Gentle and hydrating, which suits drier or more sensitive skin.
  • Mandelic acid: Slow-penetrating and well tolerated, mandelic is a sensible choice for sensitive or darker skin.
  • Salicylic acid (up to around 2%): Oil-soluble, so it suits oily, congested and acne-prone skin.
  • Polyhydroxy acids (such as gluconolactone): The gentlest acids of all, PHAs are useful if your skin reacts easily.

A few simple rules can keep home use safe. Always buy from reputable skincare brands and pharmacies, and steer clear of high-strength “professional” peels sold to the public online. These can cause burns and damage skin so belong in a clinic. AHAs work best at a pH of around 3.5 or above, so a well-formulated product matters more than a high percentage. Patch test first, start once a week or every other week and avoid using acids and retinoids on the same night. Never peel broken or irritated skin. Above all, do not chase visible peeling, because over-exfoliation damages the skin barrier and can trigger breakouts. Checkout our posts on exfoliating acids and at-home peels for more on how to use them properly.

What Are the Alternatives to Chemical Peels?

A peel is rarely the only way to treat a given concern, and it is often not the first choice. For most everyday skin concerns, topical agents do more of the heavy lifting. However, the right ingredient depends on what you are treating:

There are also a few skin procedure alternatives to chemical peels. Microdermabrasion is the gentlest, buffing away the surface layer with fine crystals or a diamond tip rather than acid. It has no downtime and helps with dullness and texture, though it cannot reach deep enough for scarring or stubborn hyperpigmentation. Microneedling stimulates collagen through controlled micro-injury rather than acid, and it pairs particularly well with peels for scarring. Laser resurfacing uses light to resurface and build collagen, and it has largely replaced deep peels for severe concerns. The right choice depends on your concern, your skin type and your tolerance for downtime.

Where to Get Chemical Peels in the UK

You can buy at home chemical peel products from most reputable skincare brands. Professional chemical peels are not available on the NHS but many private skin clinics and med spas offer them. They usually charge per session and often if you buy a course upfront, it works out cheaper. A deeper peel usually costs more than a superficial one. If you are considering a peel, the experience of the practitioner matters most, particularly for darker skin or for treating melasma. Look for someone who assesses your skin properly and explains the risks honestly. It is also worth knowing that a peel is often not the right first step. Many of the concerns people seek peels for, including acne, melasma and hyperpigmentation, usually respond well to topical treatment. This is frequently a safer and cheaper place to start.

At City Skin Clinic, we provide bespoke topical skincare treatments using ingredients like tretinoin, hydroquinone, azelaic acid and tranexamic acid where appropriate. Our doctors design a plan entirely around your skin. You can read more about our custom treatments for acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing, or book a consultation to start. The journey towards great skin starts here.

This article is for general information only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Chemical peels should only be carried out by a suitably qualified and experienced practitioner after an individual assessment. Always consult a qualified medical professional about your skin or treatment options.

Frequently asked questions

Yes, for the right concerns and at the right depth. Superficial peels reliably brighten and smooth, whilst medium peels do more for hyperpigmentation, fine lines and superficial scarring. The evidence is strongest when a peel is part of a wider routine rather than a one-off. A peel improves the skin you have, but it does not stop new sun damage or pigment forming, so results need maintaining.

Superficial peels are usually done as a course, often every two to four weeks, then spaced out for maintenance. Medium peels are done less frequently because the skin needs longer to recover. Your practitioner will set the interval based on the peel used and how your skin responds.

It depends on the depth and on your skin. A superficial peel gives a short-lived glow that fades over a few weeks, which is why a course works better than a single session. Medium peels last longer, but no peel is permanent, because the skin keeps ageing and pigment can return. Daily sunscreen and a good topical routine protect the result.

Most superficial peels cause only mild tingling or warmth for a few minutes. Medium and deep peels are stronger and more uncomfortable, and deep peels are done under sedation. Some redness and flaking afterwards is normal, and how much depends on the depth of the peel.

You can use low-strength acids at home, such as glycolic or lactic acid up to around 10%, or salicylic acid up to 2%. These gently brighten and smooth, but they cannot match a professional peel or safely treat scarring or stubborn hyperpigmentation. Patch test first, use once or twice a week, avoid pairing them with retinoids on the same night, and always wear sunscreen.

Yes, with the right choice of acid. Superficial peels, especially salicylic, mandelic and lactic acid, are the safest in darker skin. Stronger TCA and deeper peels carry a real risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The experience of the practitioner matters more than anything, so choose someone who treats deeper skin tones regularly.

A chemical peel uses acid to dissolve and remove the outer layers of skin, and it can be tailored from very gentle to quite deep. Microdermabrasion physically buffs away only the surface with fine crystals or a diamond tip, so it is gentler and more superficial. A peel can reach deeper concerns like hyperpigmentation and scarring, whereas microdermabrasion mainly helps dullness and texture.