Hair removal is a common beauty treatment that spans all cultures, generations and time periods. The best method depends on the amount and location of the hair, your skin type and your preferences. Whilst waxing, shaving, threading, sugaring and depilation remain the most common methods, they are only temporary. Choice is more limited for those seeking a permanent solution, and here electrolysis is the gold standard, especially for facial hair. This guide covers how electrolysis works, how it compares with IPL and whether the results are truly permanent. We also explore at-home electrolysis options and compare these to professional treatments.
Please note that City Skin Clinic does not offer electrolysis or any hair removal treatments. We are an online clinic providing personalised, prescription-strength topical treatments for skin and hair concerns. This article is for educational purposes only. If you are considering electrolysis, please consult a qualified electrologist.
What is Electrolysis Hair Removal?
Electrolysis is a hair removal method that has been around for over a century and can deliver permanent results. It is actually the only permanent hair removal method that has FDA approval. The process involves inserting a tiny probe into the follicle and applying a small electric current to stop it producing hair. Unlike laser or IPL hair removal, which target the pigment in the hair, electrolysis works by directly affecting the follicle itself. This makes it effective for all hair types and colours, including grey, blonde and red hairs that can resist laser treatments. It also works on non-contrasting combinations, such as dark hair on dark skin or light hair on light skin. Here the reduced contrast normally does not suit laser treatment. Exactly how electrolysis works depends on how the electric current is used. You can deliver the current in three ways:
- Galvanic electrolysis: uses a chemical reaction to destroy the hair follicle.
- Thermolysis: uses heat to damage the follicle.
- Blend method: combines galvanic and thermolysis for more effective results.
Studies show that most people get permanent results after completing their series of treatments. However, you may need occasional touch-up sessions, usually to address new hair growth from hormonal changes or other factors.
Electrolysis for Facial & Body Hair Removal
Facial hair removal is different from body hair, because it is both highly visible and very delicate. The skin on the face is also more sensitive than that on much of the rest of the body. Electrolysis offers a precise solution for unwanted facial hair, especially in Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS). Here, excess hair growth can be a major concern. It is especially popular on the upper lip, chin, eyebrows and cheeks. This is because the small probe can target individual hairs, which makes it ideal for shaping eyebrows or treating small, intricate areas. A typical facial session can last anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the area.
Although electrolysis is more commonly used on the face, it can remove unwanted hair on almost any part of the body. After the face, it is most commonly used on the legs, underarms and bikini line. The number of sessions varies depending on the area and your hair growth cycle. Each session typically lasts between 30 minutes and an hour, though this can be longer for larger areas. Results are gradual, with hair becoming finer and sparser over time until it no longer grows.
What to Expect from Professional Treatment
In general, electrolysis is best in a professional setting, due to the specialist equipment needed. It is also an extremely painstaking process. Whilst it is potentially permanent, the number of sessions, their length, the technique and maintenance differ from person to person. As a general rule, this is what the process involves on both the face and body:
- Consultation: your first step should be a consultation with a certified electrologist. They will assess your skin and hair type and discuss your goals. They will also advise on the likely number of sessions, how to prep, the risks and aftercare.
- Sessions: depending on the area, sessions can last from 15 minutes to over an hour. During the procedure you might feel a slight tingling or pricking sensation as the current is applied. Afterwards you may have some redness and swelling, which typically subsides within a few hours. Facial hair usually needs more frequent sessions than body hair.
- Results: you may see reduced hair growth after a few sessions, but complete removal usually takes multiple sessions over several months.
Preparation & Aftercare
You will need some preparation ahead of each session, and aftercare afterwards, to minimise risks and pain and improve your experience. Your practitioner will advise on the exact protocol, but this generally includes:
- Avoid hair removal: refrain from plucking, waxing or threading for at least 2 weeks before your session.
- Discuss medications: some medications can make your skin more sensitive, so discuss any you are taking with your electrologist.
- Skincare to avoid: stop using Retinol and Retinoids like tretinoin, and certain exfoliating acids, around the time of each session.
- Prep the skin: moisturise regularly, as keeping your skin hydrated helps reduce discomfort. Cleanse thoroughly beforehand, but avoid harsh exfoliants or products that could irritate your skin.
- Pain control: ask your electrologist about using a numbing cream before the session if you are concerned about pain.
- Aftercare: apply a soothing aloe vera gel or a mild, fragrance-free moisturiser to calm the skin. A cool compress immediately after treatment can also help reduce swelling or redness. Avoid sun exposure, swimming and heavy sweating for 24 hours. It is important not to pick at scabs or scratch the treated area, to avoid scarring.
Is it Possible to do Electrolysis Hair Removal at Home?
Due to the time and technical skill needed, it is generally best to have professional electrolysis, especially for sensitive areas like the face. However, there are a number of at-home devices available if this is not possible for you. The main draw of at-home electrolysis is that you can treat at your own pace and in the comfort of your own home. It can also be much cheaper than professional sessions if you can perform the treatments successfully yourself. However, it requires lots of time, patience, technical skill and consistent use. The main limitations of at-home electrolysis devices include:
- a higher risk of improper use, which can lead to skin damage.
- less effectiveness than professional treatments, due to lower power levels.
- a significant amount of time and patience to achieve results.
If you decide to try home electrolysis, it is crucial to follow all instructions carefully. Always start with a small area to test your skin’s reaction. Look for FDA-approved devices where possible. Have a low bar for stopping and seeking medical help if you suspect a problem.
Risks & Side Effects
Whilst electrolysis is generally safe, it is not without risks and potential side effects, and it is not suitable for everybody. In general, the main risks of professional and at-home electrolysis include:
- Redness and swelling: these are the most common side effects and usually subside within a few hours.
- Scarring: rare, but possible if the treatment is not performed correctly or aftercare is not followed.
- Skin discolouration: temporary hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation can occur, particularly in darker skin tones. This may need medical hyperpigmentation treatment if it is large, in a visible area or does not resolve.
- Infection: as with any procedure involving the skin, there is a risk of infection if proper hygiene is not maintained.
- Pain: whilst generally mild, pain can be a concern for some people, especially in sensitive areas.
Beyond these risks, electrolysis is not suitable for everyone. People with skin conditions like eczema or psoriasis, or those with pacemakers, should consult a doctor first. Pregnant women should also avoid electrolysis, due to the lack of research on its effects during pregnancy. Anyone susceptible to keloid scars or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation should seek advice from a dermatologist before proceeding, especially for the face.
How Does Electrolysis Compare With Laser or IPL Hair Removal?
There are several key differences between electrolysis and laser or IPL hair removal. For a start, electrolysis is the only method approved by the FDA for permanent hair removal. Because of this permanence and its precision, it is especially popular for facial hair. Unlike laser and IPL, which target the pigment in the hair, electrolysis directly destroys the follicle, regardless of hair colour or skin tone. This means it is effective on all hair colours and even darker skin tones, which are often resistant to laser or IPL.
Laser and IPL treatments typically cover larger areas more quickly, which can make them more convenient and cheaper for large body areas. Whilst they usually need fewer sessions to remove hair, they often require more maintenance over time. Laser and IPL may also be less painful, and each treatment is usually faster. Electrolysis, laser and IPL are available mainly as professional treatments, though there are also an increasing number of at-home devices.
Electrolysis offers a potentially permanent solution for unwanted hair on the face or body. It can treat all skin and hair types and can be invaluable for conditions like PCOS. Whilst the process requires patience and commitment, the long-term benefits make it worthwhile for many people. As a rule, professional treatments are the safest, most effective way to get the best results with the fewest risks. However, some at-home devices exist for those who cannot access professional treatment.
Whilst we do not offer hair removal, excess hair is sometimes linked to hormonal conditions like PCOS. So its best to start by seeing your GP. At City Skin Clinic, our doctors treat acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma, ageing and pattern hair loss with bespoke topical treatments. To discuss your skin or hair, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin, hair or treatment options.
