POSTED: 9 Jun 2023

Move Over Hyaluronic Acid, Is Polyglutamic Acid the new Skincare Icon?

As the beauty industry continues to evolve, it keeps introducing new skincare products. One such ingredient that’s been making waves recently is polyglutamic acid (PGA). PGA is a naturally occurring polymer that is even better at attracting and retaining moisture than hyaluronic acid. It can also bind to and remove heavy metals from the skin. Given all the hype, we’ve done a deep dive into PGA. We cover what it is, how it works, what benefits it offers and how to use it properly.

What is Polyglutamic Acid?

Polyglutamic acid is a natural polymer made up of chains of the amino acid glutamic acid. It is derived from fermented soybeans and is a potent hydrating ingredient. PGA is a water-soluble, non-irritating and non-sensitising substance. It is also a powerful humectant, meaning that it attracts and retains moisture. PGA is also a chelator. This means that it can bind to and remove heavy metals from the skin, which are associated with acne breakouts, skin ageing, hyperpigmentation and inflammation.

These properties make it a promising skincare ingredient, particularly for treating dry, ageing and sensitive skin. PGA has served the medical field for years. Yet it’s only recently made its way into the skincare world.

Benefits of PGA Skincare

The primary benefit of PGA is its exceptional hydrating ability. PGA can hold up to 5000 times its weight in water, making it a superior humectant. It forms a thin, smooth film on the skin’s surface that prevents water loss, keeping the skin plump, hydrated and supple. In addition to its hydrating properties, PGA can also help improve skin elasticity, chelate heavy metals, reduce the signs of ageing and promote brighter, smoother skin. The main benefits of using PGA for skin health include:

  • Improved hydration: PGA can help to improve skin hydration by attracting and retaining moisture. This can lead to softer, smoother and more radiant skin.
  • Reduced wrinkles and fine lines: It plumps up the skin and smooths the surface. This softens the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
  • Improved skin elasticity: PGA can help to improve skin elasticity by supporting collagen. This can lead to firmer, more youthful-looking skin.
  • Reduced inflammation: PGA has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to calm inflammation in the skin. This can lead to clearer, healthier-looking skin.
  • Stronger moisture barrier: By forming a film on the surface, PGA helps reinforce the skin barrier and reduce water loss. This supports the skin against everyday environmental stress, though it is not a substitute for sunscreen.
  • Brighter, more even tone: Heavy metals can prompt the skin to overproduce melanin, which leads to dark spots and discolouration. By binding these metals, PGA may help brighten the skin.

What’s the Difference Between Polyglutamic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid?

Polyglutamic acid often gets compared to hyaluronic acid (HA), another well-loved hydrating ingredient. However, there are some key differences. Whilst both PGA and HA are excellent hydrators, PGA retains moisture even better than HA. This is because it forms a larger, more flexible film on the skin’s surface, which locks in moisture more effectively. Furthermore, unlike hyaluronic acid, PGA helps increase the skin’s natural production of HA. This amplifies the hydrating effects and also improves the elasticity and plumpness of the skin. Moreover, PGA is also a powerful chelating agent, which means it can help protect skin from heavy-metal-associated damage, inflammation and ageing.

Suitable Skin Types for Polyglutamic Acid

One of the great things about PGA is that it’s suitable for all skin types. Its lightweight, non-sticky texture absorbs easily, making it ideal for oily and acne-prone skin. At the same time, its potent hydrating properties make it a great choice for dry and mature skin. It’s also gentle and non-irritating, which is great news for those with sensitive skin. Although PGA is largely safe and effective, it can cause allergic reactions in some people. If you have any concerns or a history of allergies, it is always best to talk to your doctor before using it. As with any new skincare ingredient, it’s always a good idea to patch test. Do this before applying it all over your face to check for any reaction. If you experience any irritation or signs of allergy, discontinue use and seek medical help.

How to Use Polyglutamic Acid Skincare

You’ll find PGA in various skincare products, including serums, creams and masks. PGA can be used both morning and night, and it’s safe to use with other active ingredients like retinoids, exfoliating acids and vitamin C. In fact, it can help enhance the absorption of other products, making your skincare routine even more effective.

For best results, use it as a serum and apply PGA after cleansing but before your moisturiser. Make sure your skin is a little wet when you apply it. This allows the PGA to draw water into the skin. After that, lock in this hydration with a moisturiser. You can use PGA in the mornings, evenings or both. If, however, you’re using a retinoid like Retinol or tretinoin at night, then use it in the morning instead. If you’re using an exfoliating acid, vitamin C or another toner or serum, apply PGA after these products and before the moisturiser.

Polyglutamic acid is a powerful hydrating and reparative ingredient that can be a great addition to your skincare routine, regardless of your skin type. It offers a significant boost in skin moisture, elasticity and overall health. PGA also works very well with other skincare ingredients and enhances their effects when used as part of a regular routine. Remember that skincare is personal and what works for one person may not work for another.

At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online clinic offers safe and effective treatments using ingredients like tretinoin and hydroquinone where appropriate. Our doctors treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.

This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin or treatment options.

Authored by:

Dr Amel Ibrahim
Aesthetic Doctor & Medical Director
BSC (HONS) MBBS MRCS PHD
Founder City Skin Clinic
Member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England
Associate Member of British Association of Body Sculpting GMC Registered - 7049611

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