Chemical sunscreens are some of the most popular sun protection options on the market. They offer lightweight formulas and invisible finishes that suit a variety of skin tones. However, as popular as they are there are still some lingering questions about they’re and environmental impact. In this article, we’ll unpack everything you need to know about chemical sunscreens including how they work, their benefits and safety. We’ll also review the evidence around concerns as to whether chemical sunscreens cause cancer, if they’re safe for pregnancy and their effect on the marine ecosystems.
What are Chemical Sunscreens?
Unlike physical (mineral) sunscreens that sit on the skin’s surface and reflect UV rays, chemical sunscreens work by interacting with UV light to neutralise its harmful effects. Chemical (or organic) sunscreens contain active ingredients that absorb UV radiation to prevent it from damaging the skin and convert it into heat. The skin then releases this heat. The lightweight and invisible nature of chemical sunscreens makes them popular for daily wear especially under makeup or in humid climates. The tend to also look better and more natural in people with skin of colour.
Types of UV Filters in Chemical Sunscreens
UV filters are the active ingredients which make chemical sunscreens work. Different filters absorb specific wavelengths of light. As such, chemical sunscreens typically contain one or more UV filters to provide broad-spectrum protection. This allows chemical sunscreens to work against both UVA (which causes premature ageing) and UVB (which causes sunburn) rays. The most common types of UV filters in chemical sunscreens are:
- Oxybenzone: This is a chemical UV filter that absorbs both UVB and shortwave UVA rays. Oxybenzone offers partial broad-spectrum protection which is why it is often used in combination with other filters to enhance efficacy. However, there is some controversy around using oxybenzone due to potential hormonal effects and environmental concerns.
- Avobenzone: The main value of avobenzone is it provides excellent protection against UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin and contribute to ageing and skin cancer. However, it is often paired with stabilising agents, as it can degrade quickly when exposed to sunlight. Avobenzone is considered safe for most skin types, but some individuals may experience mild irritation particularly on sensitive skin.
- Octinoxate: This is a UVB filter that protects the skin from sunburn and UV-induced damage. It is lightweight and easy to incorporate into formulations which makes it a popular choice for chemical sunscreens. However, like oxybenzone, it has raised environmental concerns due to its impact on coral reefs. It is also not typically recommended for sensitive skin as it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals.
- Octisalate: Another UVB filter, octisalate is primarily used to stabilise other sunscreen ingredients (like avobenzone). It helps extend the effectiveness of the sunscreen by reducing the breakdown of active ingredients. Octisalate is gentle on the skin and rarely causes irritation so is suitable for those with sensitive or reactive skin.
- Octocrylene: This chemical filter absorbs UVB and some UVA rays that is photostable. As such, octocrylenealso helps prevent the breakdown of less stable sunscreen ingredients like avobenzone. Unfortunately, octocrylene has been associated with allergic reactions especially in those with sensitive skin. It is also under scrutiny for its potential environmental impact on marine ecosystems.
- Homosalate: Mainly a UVB filter, homosalate helps prevent sunburn and protects the skin from UVB-induced damage. It is used in combination with other filters to provide broad spectrum protection. Although considered safe in regulated amounts, there is ongoing research into its potential to disrupt hormones at higher concentrations.
Benefits of Chemical Sunscreens
There are number of reasons that make chemical sunscreens a popular choice in skincare. The chief benefits of chemical sunscreens centre around their for their effectiveness, versatility and ease of use. Here are the main benefits of chemical sunscreens in skincare:
- Lightweight & Invisible Finish (No White Cast): One of the biggest benefits of chemical sunscreens is their lightweight texture. Unlike mineral sunscreens, which can leave a white cast on the skin, chemical sunscreens fully absorb into the skin to leave an invisible finish. This makes them particularly suited for individuals with darker skin tones or those who prefer a smooth transparent base underneath makeup.
- Effective Broad-Spectrum Protection: There are a wide variety of UV filters and chemical sunscreens often contain several of these per product. This provides comprehensive broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays.
- Ideal for Everyday Wear & Easy Reapplication: Their lightweight formulation and invisible finish make chemical sunscreens perfect for daily use. They layer easily on top of other skincare and beneath makeup products. They are also available in a range of formulations including sticks, powders and sprays which makes for easy reapplication throughout the day.
- Water-Resistant: A lot of chemical sunscreens are water-resistant which makes a great choice for those active lifestyles. They’re less likely to rub off during outdoor activities, swimming or exercising. This ensures your skin remains protected even when exposed to sweat or water. However you still need to reapply your sunscreen throughout the day.
- Versatility: Chemical sunscreens are highly versatile and can suit different skin types. For a start they come in a range of bases including gels, lotions sprays, powders and blocks. Each of these can be made to address a variety of specific skincare needs. For example, sunscreens can contain ingrates that provide hydration for dry skin, oil control for acne-prone or oily skin and antioxidants like vitamin C or E to address skin ageing. They also come in tinted products for a lighter alternative to makeup.
Safety of Chemical Sunscreens
Several chemical sunscreen UV filters are approved for use by regulatory authorities like the FDA and European Commission. They are generally safe but like any skincare product they can have some side effects such as:
- Skin irritation
- Eye burning
- Allergic reactions
- Hormonal disruption may occur with high doses of oxybenzone and homosalate though more evidence is needed
Despite their benefits, popularity and approval status, there are some lingering concerns regarding the safety and long-term effects of chemical sunscreens. The main fears tend to focus on:
- Whether Chemical Sunscreens Cause Cancer: There is no direct evidence that chemical sunscreens cause cancer in humans. However, certain filters such as oxybenzone have raised concerns due to their potential for hormonal disruption in high doses. Regulatory bodies such as in the EU and USA have a maximum concentration that can be used safely for these filters.
- Chemical Sunscreens & Sensitive Skin: UV filters such as avobenzone and oxybenzone, can cause stinging, redness, or irritation, particularly around the eyes.
- Chemical Sunscreens During Pregnancy: If you’re pregnant the current advice is to avoid certain chemical UV filters, particularly oxybenzone. This is due to their possible effects on hormones. Instead, opt for oxybenzone-free chemical sunscreens or consider switching to pregnancy-safe mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.
Are Chemical Sunscreens Reef-Safe?
There is some scrutiny around chemical sunscreens and their environmental impact particularly on coral reefs and marine life. Ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate may contribute to coral bleaching and harm marine ecosystems. To address these concerns, many brands now offer reef-safe or ocean-friendly chemical sunscreens that exclude harmful ingredients. Look for products that:
- Have a reef-safe label
- Do not contain oxybenzone, octinoxate, or octocrylene
- Use alternative UV filters like Tinosorb or Mexoryl, which are safer for the environment
How to Choose the Right Chemical Sunscreen
Finding the right chemical sunscreen which will work best for you can feel overwhelming due to the wide amount of products. Focus on key factors like formula type, active ingredients and your specific needs to find the best product for you. When selecting a chemical sunscreen consider the following:
- Look for Broad-Spectrum Protection: Broad spectrum sunscreens protect against both UVA and UVB rays, helping to prevent premature ageing, sunburn and long-term skin damage.
- Check the Ingredients: Avoid products containing oxybenzone and octinoxate if you’re concerned about potential hormonal effects or environmental harm. Instead, look for safer alternatives like Tinosorb S/M or Mexoryl SX.
- Choose the Right Formula for Your Skin Type: For dry skin, opt for hydrating creams or lotion-based sunscreens with added emollients to lock in moisture. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, lightweight gels or fluid sunscreens are ideal for preventing clogged pores. Those with combination skin may benefit from hybrid formulations that blend chemical and mineral filters for balanced protection without a greasy feel. For sensitive skin, fragrance-free sunscreens with gentler filters like octisalate to minimise irritation.
- Pregnancy-Safe Options: If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, prioritise products that are oxybenzone-free or mineral sunscreens to avoid potential hormonal effects.
- Eye-Friendly Sunscreens: If chemical sunscreens tend to sting or burn your eyes, opt for formulas labeled “safe for eyes” or use stick sunscreens for precise application to avoid accidental migration into the eye area.
- Consider Your Lifestyle Needs: For active or outdoor lifestyles, choose a water-resistant sunscreen that remains effective during swimming or sweating. For daily use, lightweight formulations that layer well under makeup or tinted options can double as both sun protection and a cosmetic product.
Finding the Right Product
Chemical sunscreens come in various formulations to suit different preferences and needs. Lotions and creams are ideal for dry or normal skin. They offer hydration while being easy to apply evenly. For those with oily or acne-prone skin, gels and fluids provide a lightweight, quick-absorbing option that avoids clogging pores. Sprays are convenient for body application and reapplication throughout the day. However they are less precise and not recommended for direct use on the face due to inhalation risks. Finally, stick sunscreens are compact, mess-free and perfect for targeted application on areas like the face or neck. They are a great choice for on-the-go touch-ups.
Chemical sunscreens are lightweight, work well and great for daily wear. They offer invisible protection which makes them attractive for a wide range of skin tones. Despite the controversies around them, they are safe and have approval for use in skincare. Some UV filters may have risks related to hormonal changes, irritation and marine safety. You can avoid these risks by choosing reef-safe and oxybenzone-free options that protect your skin and the environment. regardless of what you choose, remember the best sunscreen is the one you’ll use every day. So choose whatever looks and feels good on your skin.
At City Skin clinic, we are super passionate about personalised skincare. Our virtual skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skin and hair loss treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such Tretinoin and Hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Connect with one of our doctors today with an online consultation. The journey towards great skin starts here.
