When it comes to managing chronic scalp conditions like psoriasis, eczema or persistent dandruff, few ingredients have stood the test of time quite like coal tar. Despite being a traditional remedy, it continues to earn its place in modern hair care. Coal tar shampoos and topical treatments can help soothe inflammation, reduce scaling and even improve the overall health of the scalp. Even better, coal tar has also long been the beauty insider’s secret for treating hair loss and boosting growth. However, how much of this is fact vs legend? In this article, we’ll explore what coal tar is, the evidence for its scalp and hair benefits as well as the best way to use it.
What is Coal Tar & How Does it Work?
This is a black thick substance that’s actually a by-product from the carbonisation of coal. Despite it being an industrial waste product, it has a surprisingly long and respected history in medicine going back centuries. Its therapeutic properties were first properly explored in the 19th century, where it proved effective for treating chronic skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema. As such it is especially useful for managing scaly, inflamed or irritated skin.
Its role in scalp health emerged not long after, especially for conditions like scalp psoriasis and seborrhoeic dermatitis which can lead to itching, flaking and hair shedding. Coal tar shampoos and topical treatments can help calm irritation, reduce build-up and improve overall scalp health. There’s also growing interest in coal tar for treating hair loss and improving quality. Coal tar works on the scalp and hair through several key mechanisms:
- Slows Skin Cell Turnover: Coal tar reduces the rate of skin cell production and shedding. This helps prevent the build-up of thick scaly patches on the scalp.
- Reduces Inflammation: It possesses anti-inflammatory and antipruritic (anti-itch) properties. These effects can calm and soothe irritated or itchy scalps.
- Breaks Down Scale & Build-Up: Coal tar has mild keratolytic effects. This helps to loosen and remove the crusty layers of flaky skin that occur in conditions like psoriasis or seborrhoeic dermatitis.
Benefits of Coal Tar for Scalp Health
The most popular uses for coal tar is as a treatment for chronic inflammatory scalp conditions like psoriasis, eczema, seborrhoeic dermatitis and stubborn dandruff. This is largely due to its anti-inflammatory and keratolytic effects. The main benefits of coal tar as a scalp treatment include:
- Scalp Psoriasis: Coal tar helps to slow down the excessive production of skin cells, reduce inflammation and soften thick scaling. This not only relieves discomfort but also makes it easier to remove plaques. Coal tar shampoo is frequently recommended for mild to moderate cases of scalp psoriasis as a first-line option before progressing to stronger prescription treatments.
- Scalp Eczema: Here coal tar helps to calm inflammation, reduce flaking and relieve itching. Whilst it doesn’t cure eczema, regular use can help improve symptoms and reduce flare-ups especially in more persistent cases.
- Seborrhoeic Dermatitis (Dandruff): Coal tar can be highly effective especially in cases that are resistant to normal anti-dandruff shampoos. It works by slowing the rate of skin cell shedding, breaking down stubborn build-up and easing irritation. Compared with other ingredients like ketoconazole (which targets the underlying fungal cause) or salicylic acid (which exfoliates), coal tar offers broad anti-inflammatory action. This makes it useful for long-term scalp maintenance.
Can Coal Tar Really Treat Hair Loss & Stimulate Growth?
Coal tar is not a hair growth stimulant in the traditional sense. It doesn’t directly trigger follicular activity or stimulate new growth like minoxidil or finasteride. However, it may indirectly support hair health by improving overall scalp condition. It also play a valuable supportive role in managing certain types of hair loss, particularly where inflammation or chronic scalp conditions are contributing factors.
Issues such as scalp psoriasis, seborrhoeic dermatitis, and chronic eczema can compromise scalp health. This can then lead to excess hair shedding and loss. In these cases, coal tar may help slow down hair loss by:
- Reducing Inflammation: This is what weakens or damages hair follicles.
- Stopping Itching: If persistent, itching can lead to scratching and mechanical hair loss.
- Clearing Scale & Build-Up: These can block follicles or interfere with treatment absorption.
- Restoring a healthier scalp barrier, creating a better foundation for hair retention
Although coal tar won’t regrow hair on its own, it can support the effectiveness of targeted treatments by optimising scalp health and reducing flare-ups that might otherwise hinder progress. It has also been shown to improve the condition of hair making it appear fuller and glossier. There is evidence that using coal tar as a scalp treatment can help regrow hair in alopecia areata. However this data is based on small studies and larger trials are needed to further explore this.
How to Use Coal Tar Shampoos & Treatments
You can easily find coal tar in over the counter medicated shampoos. Tthe standard guidance is to use them 2-3 times per week, although this can vary depending on the severity of your symptoms and the concentration of it in the product. Here’s how to get the most out of a coal tar shampoo:
- Apply to wet hair concentrating on the scalp.
- Massage gently, working the product through for even coverage.
- Leave on for 5–10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly
- Avoid contact with eyes, and rinse immediately if irritation occurs
Coal tar also available in creams, ointments, and gels for more persistent or localised scalp issues. Closely follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for these and avoid getting them on the face or rest of the body. For stronger formulations or long-term use you should discuss with your medical provider to reduce risks and side effects.
Safety & Precautions
Coal tar has a long history of use in dermatology and is generally considered safe when used as directed. However, like any active ingredient, it’s not suitable for everyone. Some people may experience irritation, particularly with prolonged use or if it’s applied to broken or inflamed skin. If you have sensitive skin or a history of contact allergies, it’s sensible to carry out a patch test before using it more widely.
There are valid concerns about the carcinogenic potential of coal tar. Industrial workers with long term exposure to it who have increased rates of certain cancers. Although there are some concerns that it may increase the risk of skin cancer on patients who undergo UVB therapy alongside using coal tar ointments, the evidence is not conclusive. However, there’s plenty of evidence that appropriate use of coal tar in dermatology is safe and doesn’t cause an increased risk of cancers. This is probably because the pharmaceutical-grade coal tar used in medicated shampoos and topical treatments is highly refined. At approved concentrations, they are considered safe for short- to medium-term use. If you’re considering using coal tar for your scalp and hair, here are a few things to keep in mind:
- Regulation: Coal tar treatments available in counties like the UK are approved for cosmetic or medicinal use and meet safety standards.
- Side effects: These may include skin irritation, increased sensitivity to sunlight, and temporary staining (especially on light-coloured hair or grey hair).
- Precautions: Don’t use during pregnancy, breastfeeding or if you’re allergic to coal tar. Also avoid applying it to damaged or infected skin.
Ultimately if you’re unsure whether coal tar is right for your scalp or hair condition, speak to a dermatologist or healthcare provider. In particular, seek medical help in advance if you’re managing a chronic skin condition or using other treatments alongside it.
Comparison with Other Scalp Treatments
As you can see by now, coal tar is a long-standing treatment for managing chronic scalp conditions especially those with inflammation and scaling. That said, it’s not the only ingredient available and depending on your specific concern and severity, other treatments may be more appropriate instead of or alongside it. Here’s how it compares against other popular scalp treatments:
- Ketoconazole: This antimicrobial ingredient is especially effective for seborrhoeic dermatitis and dandruff, which may be due to overgrowth of Malassezia yeast. It also has anti-inflammatory properties. Although coal tar offers broader anti-itch and anti-scaling benefits, ketoconazole is more targeted. However, it may be less effective for non-fungal conditions like psoriasis.
- Salicylic Acid: This exfoliating agent is useful to soften and remove thick scaling like in psoriasis. It works by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to clear scale and improve penetration of other treatments. Unlike coal tar, it doesn’t have anti-inflammatory effects or help slow down skin cell turnover. As such, it’s usually used in combination with other ingredients rather than as a standalone treatment.
- Topical Corticosteroids: These are powerful anti-inflammatories are useful for moderate to severe scalp inflammation, especially during acute flare-ups. They offer rapid relief but are not for long-term use due to potential side effects like skin thinning. In contrast, coal tar offers a milder, steroid-free option that is safer for regular maintenance use especially in milder or chronic cases.
Coal tar is the absolute opposite of a trendy ingredient but has a staying power that is rare in modern scalp and hair care. For those struggling with persistent scalp issues or inflammation-related hair loss, coal tar may be a valuable addition. However for optimal benefits always use it as part of a routine and seek medical help if you’re struggling with chronic scalp or hair conditions.
We know that hair loss is a deeply personal journey. This is why we created personalised hair loss and regrowth treatments through our online skin clinic. Our doctors create custom hair loss treatments using actives such as Minoxidil, Spironolactone and Tretinoin where appropriate for each and every patient. We also treat skin concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and signs of skin ageing with bespoke skincare treatments. Start your virtual consultation and begin your journey to great hair today.
