Sometimes it is hard to know where to draw the line with skincare. From snail mucin to bakuchiol, the list of unusual beauty ingredients is seemingly endless. Licorice is now making its way into plenty of products thanks to its reputation for brightening and radiance. You would be forgiven for wondering how an old-fashioned confectionery became a coveted skincare ingredient, but there is method to the madness. Long before sweets and teas, licorice root was essential in ancient apothecaries for its healing properties. In this article we explore the science behind licorice root extract, how it benefits skin and how to use it.
What is Licorice Root?
Licorice root comes from the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant, a herb native to parts of Europe and Asia. Its root is rich in compounds like glycyrrhizin, flavonoids and saponins. These are thought to be behind its many medicinal and skin benefits. Licorice has substantial anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, which is why it is so valuable in both traditional and modern skincare.
The history of licorice in skincare spans several continents and thousands of years. In traditional Chinese medicine, it was a common remedy for redness, itching and various skin disorders. It was often applied directly to the skin as a paste to treat eczema and acne. The ancient Greeks and Romans also valued its healing effects and used it for skin swelling and in early cosmetics. Licorice fell out of favour for a while as medicine evolved. However, a trend towards natural products and the rise of Korean beauty have together sparked a revival.
How Does Licorice Root Work?
Modern science has given us a much better understanding of licorice’s components and how they work. The compounds behind its main skin benefits are:
- Glabridin: This is one of the most studied flavonoids in licorice root. It inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that produces melanin. This helps treat hyperpigmentation and age spots. Its antioxidant action also protects against free-radical damage from UV and pollution.
- Liquiritin: This also helps with hyperpigmentation, but it works differently. Rather than inhibiting melanin, it disperses it, which brightens and evens out tone. It also improves the penetration of other brightening agents.
- Licochalcone: This comes from the root’s oil and is highly effective against redness and inflammation. It has strong anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties and helps control oil. That makes it great for sensitive, rosacea-prone or acne-prone skin.
- Glycyrrhizin: This has powerful moisturising and soothing properties. It mimics the action of corticosteroids, which can help with eczema and other inflammatory conditions. It also supports the skin barrier, keeping skin hydrated and more resistant to irritants.
This research has made it possible to isolate these compounds and use them in skincare. As a result, there are now formulations that target specific concerns like hyperpigmentation, sensitivity and ageing.
What are the Benefits of Licorice Root for Skin?
The benefits of licorice root have been known for centuries, and recent research has shed more light on them. Here are the key effects licorice root can have on the skin:
- Skin Brightening: Its ability to regulate melanin makes licorice root a cornerstone ingredient for brightening and for treating melasma and sun damage. Products with licorice extract can noticeably improve brightness and fade unwanted dark patches.
- Anti-Inflammatory and Antimicrobial: Licorice root has calming effects that help manage conditions like acne, rosacea, eczema and sensitive skin. Its soothing properties reduce itchiness, redness and irritation.
- Protection and Repair: Pollutants and UV rays speed up skin ageing and damage. The antioxidants in licorice help defend against this by neutralising free radicals. It can also help repair the skin barrier, which improves hydration and plumpness.
How Do You Use Licorice Root in Your Skincare Routine?
You can find licorice root extract in cleansers, toners, essences, serums, creams and masks. It helps to first identify your skin concern and to consider any underlying conditions before deciding what form to use. As a general rule, here are the main ways to use licorice in skincare:
- Serums, toners and essences: These often have higher concentrations of active ingredients, so they are great for brightening and acne.
- Creams, lotions and masks: These are ideal for sensitive, irritated, dry or reactive skin.
- Cleansers: These work best if you are short on time but want to gradually improve overall clarity and radiance.
Is Licorice Root Safe?
Licorice root extract is generally safe and well tolerated in skincare, but a few side effects are worth knowing about. These are most likely with high concentrations or extended use:
- Excessive use can sometimes cause patches of skin to become lighter than the surrounding areas.
- Anyone with sensitive skin or an allergy to legume-family plants might get irritation, redness or an allergic reaction.
- Licorice root contains glycyrrhizin, which in large amounts could mimic the effects of corticosteroids. This could lead to skin thinning or hormonal effects if it is absorbed systemically over time.
- Anyone with high blood pressure should be cautious, since excessive licorice can affect blood pressure.
For these reasons, follow product directions carefully and patch test before full application. If you have existing health conditions or take any medications, speak with your healthcare provider about whether licorice skincare is safe for you.
As you can see, licorice root extract is a potential skincare champion with a centuries-old track record and emerging research behind it. Whether you want to clear acne, brighten, protect or soothe your skin, licorice might help. As with all things in skincare, there are no silver bullets, so it is best used as part of a personalised routine. It is also important to seek medical advice if you have any medical or skin conditions.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skincare treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as tretinoin and hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
