Volufiline is gaining considerable attention as a topical alternative to fillers for not just the face but also the breasts, and even buttocks! Obviously this is in no small part to social media and particularly TikTok with endless videos showcasing supposed volume changes from simple at-home use. Whilst super exciting, is there anything to back up these bold claims? In this article, we’ll explore what Volufiline actually is and probe the evidence for whether it works. We’ll also review the best way to use it and how it compares with existing alternatives.
What is Volufiline & How Does it Work?
First things first, Volufiline is a cosmetic ingredient that was developed by the company Sederma and patented in 2013. It was initially created as a topical option for people wanting a fuller look in areas such as the breasts, buttocks or face without undergoing procedures. This was at a time when cosmetic surgery injectables were still relatively inaccessible. Although it obviously didn’t unseat injectables or surgery and seemed to disappear into the ether. However, there’s been a recent social media revival of Volufiline. This is now likely in response to reducing interest in injectables in favour of a more of a “clean girl” aesthetic. Creators are again amplifying these claims suggesting that Volufiline can deliver visible volume changes from simple daily application.
Volufiline itself is a blend of a lightweight moisturising base and an extract from the Anemarrhena asphodeloides plant. This extract contains sarsasapogenin which gained early attention in laboratory studies for its potential effect on fat cells. These studies suggested it might encourage these cells to store more lipids and hence get bigger. That’s what helped fuel the narrative that a topical cream could create a gentle filler-like effect. However, critics argue that real skin biology makes this claim a little difficult to believe. The key issue is that cosmetic ingredients like Volufiline generally can’t travel beyond the surface of the skin because the skin barrier is very effective at keeping things out. Without reaching the deeper layer of the skin like the dermis or the fat beneath it, a product cannot impact the skin or fat cells. It also can not create structural volume.
What Does the Evidence Show?
Despite the hype, there is actually very little clinical evidence for Volufiline. In fact it’s notable how little there is. The most cited study which everyone in the blogs and magazines cite but never link to is impossible to find (I’ve even tried looking at individual databases and the manufacturer’s website). This suggests it was not a peer review study and hence was published as a white paper. Based on circulating testimony, the study was funded by the manufacturer and they looked at breast application in a small group of participants. They found that a cream containing 5% Volufiline produced a modest 2.2% increase in breast volume after 56 days compared with the untreated side. This in itself is not a meaningful change and certainly doesn’t support the claims.
Since then other studies have shown improvement in lip plumping, skin ageing and under eye hollows. The limitation of most of these studies is that their size and design limit the strength of their findings. This absence of evidence aligns with the known limitations of cosmetic topical treatments. Simply, they can not penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. So far based on the evidence available, Volufiline is unlikely to meaningfully influence structural tissues in the face or body. Similar to ingredients like hyaluronic acid, any improvement in wrinkles, brightening or skin quality from Volufiline is far more likely to come from hydration and moisturisation. This gives skin a softer feel and smoother appearance.
How is Volufiline Used?
You can find Volufiline in face and body serums or creams mainly positioned as shaping and plumping treatments. However as we saw from the evidence, despite the way it is promoted Volufiline remains a cosmetic ingredient. It cannot create structural changes in the skin. As such, any effects are limited to surface hydration and softness rather than actual volume enhancement. Despite these limitations, the main uses of Volufiline skincare treatments are in:
• Breasts: It is marketed as a cream for subtle breast enlargement.
• Buttocks and hips: Volufiline shaping creams are sold to help increase contour and augmentation.
• Face: Serums containing Volufiline target cheek plumping and wrinkle smoothing.
• Under eyes: It is used in serums and creams for plumping under eye hollows and brightening dark circles.
• Lips: Volufiline is found in plumping balms.
Who Might Benefit from Volufiline?
So if you accept that Volufiline does not do what the marketers claim and instead is a superficial and temporary skin booster, then there are some benefits. The best way to use Volufiline is as a moisturising product which can boost skin hydration. In hydrating masks, creams or serums it can help give skin on the face, neck or hands as a quick pick-me up. This will make it look smoother and more radiant as well as provide a smooth base for makeup. It is also useful in lip plumping products to help improve the appearance of the lips. Where it is probably a waste of time and money is if you’re looking to use it to augment or contour your face or body.
Who Should Avoid it?
Due to its limitations and lack of adequate research, Volufiline is not suitable for everyone. It is probably not worth your while if you have:
• Sensitive or reactive skin that may be prone to irritation.
• Pregnancy or breastfeeding (due to insufficient safety data).
• People expecting noticeable volume enhancement from a topical product.
• Anyone trying to treat structural issues such as hollowing or contour loss.
How to use Volufiline
If you decide to try Volufiline, it is best to think of it as a supportive skincare ingredient rather than a stand-alone active treatment for volume loss. As a general rule, apply it to clean and dry skin. Avoid using it on irritated or broken skin and stop if redness or sensitivity develops. Most products recommend once or twice daily application but this varies depending on strength and the rest of your skincare routine.
Volufiline is a moisturising product so layer it mindfully with the rest of your skincare routine. As a general rule, it pairs best with ingredients that improve hydration or surface texture. The following ingredients help support the temporary plumping effect created by Volufiline:
• Hyaluronic acid: Enhances hydration and smoothness.
• Humectants: Ingredients like glycerin or panthenol increase water retention and soften the skin.
• Ceramides or squalane: These ingredients help to support the skin barrier and improve suppleness.
• Peptides: Can help boost hydration and firmness over time.
Alternatives to Volufiline that Really Work
As we keep saying, although Volufiline can soften and hydrate the skin, it cannot change the structure of the skin. The below treatments that act directly on the skin cells and tissues responsible for support and shape:
• Hyaluronic acid dermal fillers: These injectables can temporarily restore or enhance volume and contour features.
• Biostimulatory treatments: Injectable skin boosters and microneedling encourage collagen production for gradual improvement in skin firmness and elasticity.
• Retinoids: Over the counter products and stronger prescription retinoids to strengthen the skin, smooth wrinkles and improve texture.
• Niacinamide: Helps improve skin barrier function and brightens the skin.
• Antioxidants: Protect the skin, boost collagen production and improve brightness.
• Surgery: Of course, if significant changes in body contouring or shaping are needed then procedures like liposuction, fat transfer, implants and face lifts may be the only choice.
Safety & Risks
Volufiline is generally well tolerated but long term safety studies are lacking. It is sold wholesale to beauty companies from its main distributor. This means that the consumer product comes from a variety of brands. The biggest concern is that many products containing it are sold through online marketplaces through small retailers. These have variable quality control and concentrations are rarely disclosed. Even worse some formulations may not contain genuine Volufiline which makes it difficult to anticipate results or safety. If you do wish to incorporate it in your skincare, it is worth taking a few precaiutions:
- Purchase from a reputable brand.
- Read the back of the product for usage instructions and potential side effects which may include allergy and irritation.
- Patch test first especially if you have sensitive skin.
- Avoid applying these products to broken or irritated areas.
- Seek medical advice before using if you have an underlying skin condition like eczema, rosacea or psoriasis.
The idea of Volufiline is very appealing but the scientific evidence does not support the dramatic claims circulating online. That doesn’t mean its totally useless thought. In the right circumstances, it can subtly soften and improve skin hydration. What it can not do is structurally change the skin and underlying soft tissues. Luckily there are evidence based skincare ingredients and in-clinic treatments which may help increase collagen production, tighten and plump up the skin. As always, when it comes to beauty, take all claims with a pinch of salt, don’t expect miracles and known that the best path comes from using the right products for your skin consistently.
At City Skin clinic, we are super passionate about personalised skincare. Our virtual skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skin treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as Tretinoin, Hydroquinone and Azelaic acid to treat conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Start your online consultation today. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
