Essential fatty acids (EFAs) play a crucial role in skin hydration, elasticity and barrier function. Since the body cannot produce essential fatty acids, you have to obtain them through diet or skincare. In this article, we’ll explore the benefits of essential fatty acids for skin and how to use them. We’ll also review how they compare to other similar skincare ingredients.
What are Essential Fatty Acids?
EFAs are polyunsaturated fats that play a crucial role in skin health by helping with repair, hydration and barrier function. Unlike other fats, your body can’t make essential fatty acids, so you have to get them through diet or skincare. The two main types of essential fatty acids for skin health are:
- Omega-3 Fatty Acids: commonly found in fish oil, flaxseeds, walnuts and algae. These fatty acids help reduce inflammation and improve skin moisture.
- Omega-6 Fatty Acids: most common in sunflower oil, evening primrose oil and nuts. These help maintain the skin barrier and prevent water loss.
The importance of essential fatty acids for skin was first recognised in the early 20th century. Researchers discovered that fat-deficient diets lead to severe skin issues such as scaling, inflammation, dehydration and infections. By the 1970s, further studies revealed their role in strengthening the skin barrier and reducing inflammation. In particular, linoleic acid (a type of omega-6 EFA) was identified as a key component of ceramides. These are vital for locking in water and protecting against the environment. Around the same time, doctors also found that omega-3 essential fatty acids could play a role in reducing inflammation. As such, they could help treat skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis and even acne.
By the 1990s and early 2000s, essential fatty acids made their way into mainstream skincare. The main source of these was plant oils rich in omega-3 and omega-6, which targeted dryness, sensitivity and inflammation. Today, you can easily find fatty acids in moisturisers, serums and facial oils. They are also used as ointments in dermatology for treating atopic dermatitis and wound healing. Whilst both these EFAs are necessary for healthy skin, they need to be used properly. For example, an excessive intake of omega-6 without sufficient omega-3 may contribute to inflammation. This can potentially make conditions like acne, eczema and rosacea even worse.
What Are the Benefits of Essential Fatty Acids?
Essential fatty acids play a vital role in the healthy function and appearance of your skin. They work at the cell level to affect skin barrier function, hydration, inflammation control and collagen production. Here are the key benefits of essential fatty acids for skin:
- Strengthening the Skin Barrier: EFAs contribute to the formation of ceramides, which are crucial for keeping the skin barrier intact. Linoleic acid in particular is necessary for preventing water loss and strengthening the skin’s protective layer. Low linoleic acid levels are linked to increased sensitivity, dryness and irritation.
- Hydration & Moisture Retention: omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids help maintain the lipid balance in the skin. This reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Research suggests that applying EFAs onto the skin, or taking them through diet, can improve hydration levels. It can also prevent conditions like xerosis (abnormally dry skin).
- Anti-Inflammatory: omega-3s, particularly eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), have well-documented anti-inflammatory effects. These compounds reduce the production of inflammatory molecules like prostaglandins and cytokines, which are linked to acne, eczema and rosacea.
- Acne Control: acne-prone individuals tend to have lower levels of linoleic acid in their skin. This may contribute to clogged pores and breakouts. By controlling sebum production and reducing inflammation, omega-3s can help manage acne.
- Anti-Ageing & Collagen Support: omega-3s, especially EPA, help protect against UV-induced skin damage by reducing oxidative stress and inflammation. Research suggests that EPA can prevent collagen breakdown caused by UV exposure, helping to maintain skin elasticity and reduce premature ageing signs.
- Wound Healing & Skin Repair: EFAs aid in skin regeneration by increasing cell turnover and reducing inflammation. Research indicates that topical application of omega-6-rich oils, such as evening primrose oil, can improve wound healing and reduce scars.
How Do You Use Essential Fatty Acids?
There are two ways you can use essential fatty acids in skincare. You can either “eat your skincare” by adding them to your diet. Alternatively, you can apply them onto your skin during your routine. The main ways to add essential fatty acids to your diet are:
- Food: a balanced diet rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids provides essential lipids that support skin hydration, strengthen the barrier and reduce inflammation. Include omega-3-rich foods like fatty fish (salmon, mackerel or sardines), flaxseeds, walnuts, chia seeds and algae. Also add in omega-6-rich foods like sunflower seeds, almonds, evening primrose oil, safflower oil and hemp seeds. Don’t forget that keeping a proper balance between these fatty acids is crucial. An excess of omega-6 without enough omega-3 may contribute to inflammation.
- Supplements: if you find it hard to get enough essential fatty acids from food alone, good quality supplements can help bridge the gap. Omega-3 supplements like fish oil, krill oil or algae-based DHA/EPA are particularly beneficial. They improve skin hydration, reduce inflammation and boost overall skin health. Omega-6-rich supplements such as evening primrose oil or borage oil contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). These may be especially helpful in calming irritation.
It is also very easy to add essential fatty acids into your skincare routine. Although you can find them in a wide variety of products, here are the best ways to use them (in our opinion):
- Face Oils: for hydration and repair, look for oils packed with omega-3, omega-6 and omega-7 fatty acids to deeply nourish and restore the skin. Rosehip oil supports skin repair and hydration, whilst evening primrose oil helps calm inflammation and redness. Linoleic acid helps regulate sebum, making it ideal for acne-prone skin. Sea buckthorn oil, a rare source of omega-7, is particularly beneficial for mature or damaged skin. Look for cold-pressed oils or formulas that preserve the integrity of the essential acids for maximum benefit.
- Moisturisers & Serums: these can help reinforce the skin’s natural lipid barrier to prevent moisture loss and provide lasting hydration. Combining essential fatty acids with other hydrating ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide works well. Together, they enhance skin barrier function, soothe irritation and support long-term hydration.
- Masks & Balms: if you have dry, rough or cracked skin, essential fatty acids in masks and balms can provide an extra layer of nourishment. These products work by restoring lipid levels, sealing in moisture and smoothing skin texture. Masks can be used alone or layered over a moisturiser to lock in hydration. Omega-rich balms are particularly useful for calming irritation, reducing flaky skin and protecting against environmental damage, especially during colder months.
Are Essential Fatty Acids Safe?
Essential fatty acids are generally safe for most people, whether used in skincare or taken in through diet and supplements. However, like any skincare ingredient or food, they can have potential side effects, which vary depending on the method of use. The main risks of essential fatty acids in skincare include:
- Breakouts or clogged pores: some heavier omega-6-rich oils, like soybean or sunflower oil, may cause breakouts, especially in skin prone to acne.
- Skin irritation or allergic reactions: though rare, some individuals may experience redness, itching or sensitivity to certain plant-based EFA oils.
- Oxidation concerns: certain EFA-rich oils (like flaxseed oil) are prone to oxidation. This can reduce their effectiveness and potentially irritate the skin if they turn rancid.
Again, whilst rare, there are some potential side effects of adding essential fatty acids to your diet through food or supplements:
- Digestive issues: high doses of omega-3 can sometimes cause nausea, diarrhoea or bloating.
- Blood thinning: omega-3 supplements, especially in high doses, may increase bleeding risk, particularly for those on blood thinning medicines.
- Imbalance concerns: excessive omega-6 intake without enough omega-3 can contribute to inflammation, which may worsen conditions like acne or eczema.
Additionally, essential fatty acids are vital for foetal brain and eye development, making them beneficial during pregnancy and breastfeeding. However, omega-3 supplements, particularly fish oil, should be from pure sources to avoid harmful chemicals like mercury. Pregnant individuals should avoid high doses of omega-3s or omega-6s without medical advice, as they can affect blood clotting. Always check with a medical professional before adding EFAs during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
How Do They Compare to Similar Ingredients?
Essential fatty acids offer a single easy solution for deep hydration, strengthening the skin barrier and reducing inflammation. However, they’re not the only option. Here’s how they compare against their main skincare rivals:
- Hyaluronic Acid: this attracts water to the skin, whilst essential fatty acids seal in moisture by making the lipid barrier stronger. Combining both can plump up the skin and provide longer-lasting hydration.
- Ceramides: both essential fatty acids and ceramides support the skin barrier. However, essential fatty acids also offer anti-inflammatory benefits, making them particularly useful for irritated or acne-prone skin. You can use both together for maximum protection against dryness and environmental damage.
- Niacinamide: this helps control oil, reduce redness and improve skin texture. Essential fatty acids work deeper within the skin barrier to enhance hydration and strength. Together, they can soothe inflammation whilst controlling oil production and strengthening the skin.
- Squalane: both essential fatty acids and squalane mimic the skin’s natural oils. However, essential fatty acids can also actively repair and strengthen the skin barrier. Squalane is lighter and great for sealing in hydration, whilst essential fatty acids provide deeper nourishment, so may be better for damaged skin.
- Shea Butter: this provides intense hydration and forms a protective barrier. Essential fatty acids offer lighter hydration, so may be better suited to oily skin. Using both can deliver deep nutrition without blocking pores.
- Glycerin: like hyaluronic acid, glycerin draws water into the skin, whilst essential fatty acids lock in that moisture. As such, EFAs prevent dehydration and strengthen the skin barrier over time. You can use them together for greater hydration and better skin barrier function.
Essential fatty acids are an important ingredient for healthy, better-looking skin. Better still, you can get their benefits by adding them to your diet or using them in skincare. They’re incredibly versatile and can have a place in almost any routine, including for those with dry, sensitive, acne-prone or mature skin. As with anything in life, there are no silver bullets. Essential fatty acids work best as part of a comprehensive, personalised skincare routine.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online clinic offers safe and effective treatments using ingredients like tretinoin and hydroquinone where appropriate. Our doctors treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin or treatment options.
