Beyond food, the health benefits of fermentation are increasingly making their way to skincare. If you’ve spent anytime on this blog, you’ll know that the world of skincare is always evolving with the last few years seeing an explosion in innovative ingredients and technologies aiming to boost skin health. One of the hottest targets is using the skin microbiome to improve the appearance of skin. One of the star ingredients of microbiome-friendly skincare is Lactobacillus ferment. This probiotic may play a role in nurturing the skin microbiome to yield a healthier more radiant skin. As ever, we explore the science behind Lactobacillus ferment to find out exactly what it is and if it can really benefit the skin. We’ll also review the best way to use Lactobacillus in your skincare routine.
What Is Lactobacillus Ferment?
Fermentation has been a staple of human tradition for centuries. Its main use was to enhance the nutritional value and shelf life of perishable foods. This is how we ended up with things like yoghurt, kimchi and kombucha. Moreover, there is plenty of scientific evidence showing that fermented foods can actual support our gut microbiome which in turn has numerous health benefits including weight loss, brain function, metabolism and even the skin. Our skin also has its own microbiome. This is a delicate ecosystem of beneficial microorganisms that live on our skin and play a critical role in maintaining its health and function.
As our understanding of the function of the skin microbiome increased, it was only a matter of time before the beauty industry started looking at fermentation. In the skincare world, fermentation’s ability to break down complex molecules into bioavailable compounds has long been used to create formulations. The biggest pioneer of this is Korean beauty (K-beauty) where fermented ingredients like Rice water are widely used.
Throughout history, Lactobacillus bacteria has been used in creating yoghurt and other dairy products. Yoghurt, has long been a staple in natural skincare across cultures for its soothing, brightening, smoothing and hydrating benefits. This is largely due to Lactobacillus bacteria which is a probiotic known for its health benefits. However it is relatively impractical to manufacture yoghurt skincare at scale. So over time, scientists instead experimented with using advanced fermentation processes to extract beneficial compounds from yoghurt that support the skin microbiome. That’s where Lactobacillus ferment comes in. It is by-product of controlled fermentation of live bacteria. The Lactobacillus bacteria metabolise sugars to create lactic acid, peptides, enzymes and other bioactive compounds. This ferment is rich in nutrients and once extracted is then stabilised for use in skincare formulations.
What’s the Difference Between Live Lactobacillus Probiotics vs Ferment?
You’ll be forgiven for not knowing what the difference is between using live bacteria (probiotics) and fermented extracts in skincare. There are however some important differences:
- Live Probiotics are living bacteria meant to colonise the skin microbiome. Although effective, their fragility makes them difficult to formulate into stable shelf-ready products. They also often require refrigeration and have a shorter shelf-life.
- Lactobacillus Ferment is the by-product of fermentation containing bioactive compounds produced by Lactobacillus bacteria. These compounds nourish the skin and balance the microbiome without the stability challenges of live probiotics.
For most skincare routines, Lactobacillus ferment is a more practical option due to its stability, reproducible manufacturing techniques and wide-ranging benefits. As such, it is a more practical and powerful microbiome-friendly skincare ingredient.
Benefits of Lactobacillus Ferment for Skin
Lactobacillus ferment offers a host of skin benefits which is why it has become a core ingredient in microbiome-friendly skincare. Here are some of its main benefits:
- Balances the Skin Microbiome: The skin microbiome is home to a diverse array of microorganisms that protect against pathogens and maintain skin health. Research has shown that Lactobacillus ferment introduces beneficial metabolites, such as lactic acid and peptides, that help balance the microbiome. A balanced microbiome can help counteract skin issues like acne, sensitivity and dryness.
- Strengthens the Skin Barrier: A strong skin barrier is essential for locking in moisture and protecting against external irritants. Lactobacillus ferment has been shown to stimulate the production of ceramides and lipid molecules which are critical components of the barrier. A review of studies published in the Journal Nutrients showed that topical probiotics, including fermented extracts, improve skin hydration and barrier function reducing transepidermal water loss.
- Soothes Irritation: The anti-inflammatory properties of Lactobacillus ferment make it highly effective at calming irritation, redness and sensitivity. Fermented ingredients modulate the skin’s immune response, reducing inflammatory cytokines associated with conditions like rosacea and eczema. A 2020 review in the Journal Antioxidants highlighted that probiotics and their derivatives, such as Lactobacillus ferment, reduce inflammation and oxidative stress in sensitive skin.
- Improves Hydration: The fermentation process produces humectant-rich by-products, including amino acids and polysaccharides. These attract and retain moisture in the skin. There is good evidence that fermented ingredients, such as Lactobacillus ferment enhance skin hydration by increasing moisture levels.
- Brightens Skin: A 2022 study has shown that metabolites from Lactobacillus ferment can inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for making melanin. By regulating melanin production, Lactobacillus ferment can help reduce hyperpigmentation, even out the skin tone and brighten the skin.
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30368647/
- Protects Against Environmental Damage: Lactobacillus ferment produces antioxidants like ferulic acid and other polyphenols that can neutralise free radicals. These antioxidants protect skin cells from oxidative stress caused by pollution, UV radiation and other environmental aggressors. As such they can help protect the skin and prevent premature ageing.
How to Use Lactobacillus Ferment in Your Skincare Routine
Whether you’re looking to calm irritation, boost hydration or brighten your complexion, its fairly easy to add Lactobacillus ferment to your skincare routine. Here are our top tips:
- Choose the Right Product for Your Skin: If you don’t have much time for skincare or have very sensitive skin, opt for gentle cleansers that remove impurities without disrupting the skin microbiome. For most people, toners, essences or serums are the best way to deliver the concentrated benefits of Lactobacillus ferment without altering the rest of your skincare routine. If you have dry or ageing skin then Lactobacillus ferment moisturisers and masks are the best way to support your skin barrier and hydrate your skin.
- Use Correctly: Lactobacillus ferment is versatile and can be used in both morning and evening routines. Although ot plays well with most skincare ingredients, avoid using at the same time as strong exfoliants (AHAs or BHAs) or retinoids to prevent irritation. For daytime use, always follow up with a broad-spectrum SPF to protect your skin from UV damage and preserve the benefits of Lactobacillus ferment.
- Pair with Complimentary Ingredients: Lactobacillus ferment layers well with gentle, barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides, squalane or niacinamide. Products that combine Lactobacillus ferment with humectants like hyaluronic acid are perfect for plumping and moisturising. Additionally products that pair Lactobacillus ferment with brightening agents like vitamin C can boost radiance and promote an even complexion.
- Pace Yourself: Introduce Lactobacillus ferment gradually into your routine if you’re new to probiotic skincare. Once your skin is tolerating it well, combine it with other microbiome-friendly ingredients to boost its results.
Lactobacillus ferment is generally safe for all skin types. However there are risks including allergy and irritation. To minimise these, always perform a patch test to check for any sensitivity or allergic reaction. You also follow product instructions and start gradually as overusing even gentle active ingredients can irritate the skin.
The rise of microbiome-friendly skincare has propelled Lactobacillus ferment into the spotlight. It taps into a number of popular movements including clean and sustainable beauty and taps into growing demand for Korean skincare, fermented ingredients are now a staple in modern formulas. Beyond that, there is plenty of scientific research that supports the benefits of Lactobacillus ferment in skincare. As with anything in life, there are no silver bullets and what works for someone might not work for another. The best way to use Lactobacillus ferment is part of a regular skincare routine with complimentary ingredients.
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