Although niacinamide is everywhere in skincare, its role in hair growth has only recently started to attract attention. As with most beauty trends, claims spread faster than evidence in this terminally online age. You’ll find countless videos, blogs and promos boosting niacinamide as the ultimate miracle treatment for thicker and shinier hair. However as always, the truth is a little more nuanced. In this article, we explore the actual benefits of niacinamide for hair growth, quality and scalp health. We’ll also review the best way to use niacinamide in your hair care routine.
What is Niacinamide & How Does it Work on Hair?
Niacinamide (aka vitamin B3) is a water-soluble vitamin that is widely used in skincare for its barrier-supporting, pigment fading and anti-inflammatory properties. When used on the scalp, it appears to improve the environment in which hair grows. Early research suggests that niacinamide may support hair health and growth through the following mechanisms:
- Barrier support: Niacinamide helps increase ceramide production which strengthens the skin barrier on the scalp. This reduces water loss, which can improve dryness, irritation and discomfort beneath the hair.
- Inflammation control: Low-grade inflammation contributes to many scalp problems and can even lead to hair loss. Niacinamide can help calm this and support a healthier follicle environment.
- Sebum balance: Excess oil flattens the roots and makes hair look thinner. It can also encourage overgrowth of yeast leading to dandruff and even hair loss. Niacinamide can help regulate sebum levels and balance oil levels.
- Antioxidant support: Studies suggest that niacinamide might protect hair follicles from antioxidant damage and slow down their entry into the catagen phase which is when hair stops growing. These actions potentially slow down hair loss.
- Keratin quality: Early studies show that niacinamide can help expand keratin protein in the hair shafts which may lead to improvements in tensile strength and smoothness. This can help make the individual hair strands look and feel thicker. They also break less easily.
Benefits of Niacinamide for Hair
It is best to view niacinamide as a supportive scalp active rather than a stand-alone hair growth treatment. As such, its key benefits centre around improving the health and condition of the scalp, hair follicles and strands. To date, the known benefits of niacinamide for the hair and scalp include:
- Hydration: Niacinamide helps moisturise the scalp and reduce dryness or flaking. It is especially useful in colder months or dry environments.
- Strength: By improving keratin quality, niacinamide can make strands more resilient and help reduce breakage.
- Comfort: Niacinamide can calm the scalp making it less prone to irritation, itching and redness. It also balances oil production. This provides an ideal environment for hair growth and reduces hair loss due to inflammation.
- Thickness: By improving hydration, hair shaft strength and reducing collapse at the roots, niacinamide can make hair look and feel fuller.
- Compatibility: Niacinamide is a gentle active that pairs easily with other hair care ingredients like caffeine, peptides and hyaluronic acid. It can also support more irritating medical treatments like minoxidil and tretinoin.
What Can’t Niacinamide Do?
Niacinamide can support hair growth by improving scalp health. It can also make hair look shinier and thicker through hydrating and smoothing hair shafts. However it is not a treatment for hair loss which is more commonly due to genetic, hormonal or systemic medical problems. Sadly, marketing often blurs the line between what it can actually so and what it can’t do. As a general rule the key limitations of niacinamide for hair include:
- Create new follicles: It does not regrow hair in areas where follicles are inactive or miniaturised.
- Reverse pattern hair loss: Androgenetic hair thinning usually requires treatment like as minoxidil, finasteride, dutasteride or spironolactone.
- Replace medical care: Sudden patchiness, rapid shedding or scalp symptoms require diagnosis. You should always seek medical help as they may be signs of an underlying condition like thyroid dysfunction, autoimmunity, scarring alopecia or infection that requires medical treatment.
Who Might Benefit Most from Niacinamide?
So, for advanced thinning or ongoing hair loss, niacinamide by itself will not be enough. However, niacinamide can be useful addition to hair care for:
- Mild thinning: Especially when caused by breakage, dryness or scalp imbalance rather than true hair loss.
- Scalp sensitivity: It helps soothe irritation from styling, frequent washing or harsh products.
- Greasy roots with dry lengths: Niacinamide helps with sebum regulation at the scalp and hydration along the shaft. It helps balance oil.
- Transient shedding: A healthier scalp environment may support recovery during transient shedding phases such as post-partum or stress related hair loss.
- Adjunct treatments: Niacinamide can complement hair growth treatments like minoxidil, caffeine, melatonin or microneedling by supporting scalp comfort and tolerance.
How to Use Niacinamide for Hair & Scalp
Niacinamide is easy to add into a hair care routine, but results depend on choosing the right formulation and using it consistently. Scalp-specific products are far more effective than facial serums because they are designed for better penetration and tolerance. A simple approach works best:
- Leave-on serums: These offer the most meaningful benefit. Apply to a clean, dry scalp once daily or a few evenings per week. Concentrations between 2 and 5 per cent are generally well tolerated and sufficient for supportive effects.
- Shampoos and conditioners: Useful as an adjunct but contact time is short, so they tend to provide hydration and comfort rather than targeted scalp benefits. They’re better suited or those with sensitive scalps or very fine hair.
- Combination formulas: Serums that include niacinamide alongside things like caffeine, peptides or other hydrating ingredients can simultaneously improve scalp health, follicle growth and strand quality.
- Keep routines light: Avoid layering several serums at once as this can lead to lead to build-up, which weighs the hair down, flattens the roots and causes irritation.
Side Effects & Precautions
Generally, niacinamide is usually well tolerated. However, the skin on the scalp can react differently to that on the face so it is best to approach it with caution even if you are already using it for skincare. Here are some potential risks of using niacinamide for hair care:
- Irritation: This is rare but possible, especially if the formula includes fragrance or essential oils.
- Build-up: Heavy or silicone-rich niacinamide serums can weigh the hair down and make it appear greasy or limp.
- Poor combinations: Strong acids can cause irritation whilst heavy oils or occlusive balms can cause interfere with absorption.
Stop using the product if you develop redness, itching, flaking or increased discomfort. If symptoms persist, it is sensible to seek medical advice to rule out underlying scalp conditions.
Niacinamide is not a miracle solution for hair regrowth but it can be a helpful supporting ingredient for healthier-looking and feeling hair. It works best for people with mild thinning, dryness or irritation rather than those with ongoing hair loss. It can however complement more established hair growth treatments.
We believe in a personalised approach to hair care which is why we offer custom topical hair loss and growth treatments for men and women through our online skin clinic. Our doctors provide hair growth treatments which may include actives such as Minoxidil, Finasteride, Dutasteride, Spironolactone, Melatonin, Caffeine and Tretinoin where appropriate for each and every patient. Start your virtual consultation and begin your journey to great hair today.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
