Sensitive or reactive skin can make finding the right anti-ageing skincare difficult. Retinol is a well studied skincare ingredient that improves fine lines, texture, acne and uneven skin tone. However, it can also cause dryness or irritation and is not suitable for everyone. Bakuchiol is a botanical ingredient whose many fans claim it offers similar results with fewer side effects. However, as always in skincare its important to separate myths from facts. In this article we compare the benefits of bakuchiol vs retinol for sensitive skin. We’ll also review their safety, how to decide which one is best for you and how to use them in a barrier friendly routine.
What’s the Difference Between Retinol & Bakuchiol?
Retinol is a topical form of vitamin A and one of the most common ingredients in skincare. It converts to retinal and then to retinoic acid within the skin. Retinol increases cell turnover and boosts collagen production. These actions clear pores, smooth skin texture, firm up skin and reduces fine lines. However, retinol can also cause irritation, inflammation and even compromise the skin barrier. This is what makes retinol use challenging for sensitive skin.
Whilst both ingredients target similar outcomes, they work through different biological pathways. Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol which comes from the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It activates pathways linked to collagen formation and pigmentation balance. It also has both antibacterial and anti-inflammatory actions making it also useful for acne, sensitive and reactive skin conditions like rosacea. Studies show improvements in skin tone, texture and firmness comparable to retinol but with fewer reports of dryness or irritation. This makes it potentially valuable for individuals with reactive or redness prone skin who may not be able to tolerate retinol
Although bakuchiol there is promising data showing that bakuchiol may present a gentler alternative to retinol, current evidence remains limited. Most studies are small, short term and compare bakuchiol to retinol of differing strengths or combine it with other actives. As such claims of equivalent or superior efficacy should be viewed cautiously. There are also few studies looking specifically at sensitive or reactive skin. This makes direct comparison of bakuchiol vs retinol for sensitive skin difficult. Long term, large and standardised studies are necessary to compare bakuchiol with retinol across a range of skin types.
Benefits of Bakuchiol vs Retinol for Sensitive Skin
Bakuchiol and retinol both improve skin texture, tone and fine lines but work through slightly different mechanisms. This difference affects how each ingredient behaves and tolerance by sensitive or reactive skin. Retinol has the strongest body of evidence for visible improvement in photoageing and skin texture. However, it can also cause dryness, flaking and mild stinging when the skin barrier is fragile as is often the case with sensitive skin. The main benefits of Bakuchiol vs retinol for sensitive skin include:
- Tolerance: Retinol often needs a gradual introduction and barrier support. Bakuchiol is usually well tolerated from the start and can be used more frequently on reactive skin.
- Skin Barrier: Bakuchiol may help support the skin barrier integrity and help hydrate the skin although data is still early.
- Pregnancy & Breastfeeding: Retinol and retinoids can not be used during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Although human safety data are limited, it is thought that bakuchiol is likely to be safe alternative to retinol during pregnancy.
For sensitive skin, frequent use of low strength actives with minimal irritation gives better results than an aggressive approach with stronger actives that disrupt the barrier. Bakuchiol provides this balance but it’s not really all or nothing. For those with sensitive skin, its possible to prime the skin with bakuchiol and then introduce retinol at lower strengths and frequencies.
Choosing Between Bakuchiol vs Retinol if You Have Sensitive Skin
Deciding between bakuchiol vs retinol depends on how sensitive or reactive your skin is and your underlying skin concern. Both can help reduce fine lines, brighten the skin and clear acne. Here are our top tips for choosing between them or even both:
- Bakuchiol: If you have previously had irritation or purging from retinol, then it may be worth considering bakuchiol. Also, if your skin is easily inflamed, very dry or you have an underlying condition like rosacea or eczema, then it may be best to start with bakuchiol.
- Retinol: You can start with retinol if your skin already tolerates actives like exfoliating acids or Vitamin C and you prefer the deeper evidence base. However, if you have sensitive skin always start with a low strength and increase frequency slowly.
- Combine Both: If your skin is tolerating regular use of one of them but you aren’t getting the results you desire, it is possible to combine both. You can start by alternating them by using bakuchiol on some evenings and retinol on others. If you’re tolerating that and wish to step up you can potentially use retinol at night and bakuchiol in the mornings.
How to Use Bakuchiol & Retinol in Your Skincare Routine
The way you use these ingredients makes a big difference in terms of comfort and results. Sensitive skin responds best to gradual changes, low concentrations and calming ingredients. Here are our top tips for using bakuchiol and retinol for sensitive skin:
- Choose One: Introducing one product at a time allows the barrier to adjust and helps identify what the skin can tolerate. If you have very sensitive skin or had problems with retinol before then it may be best to start with just bakuchiol first.
- Timing: You can only use retinol at night as it is light sensitive but can use bakuchiol at any time.
- Application: To reduce irritation from retinol, apply it after moisturiser or use the moisturiser–retinol–moisturiser sandwich to buffer the skin and reduce dryness. Bakuchiol can be applied directly to clean skin before moisturiser and generally does not require buffering.
- Frequency: Begin using two to three evenings a week and increase only when the skin is calm and tolerating treatment well.
- Pairing: Both these ingredients work best with hydrating and barrier-repair ingredients such as niacinamide, panthenol or ceramides.
- Combining: Once your skin tolerates one of them, you can combine both bakuchiol and retinol on alternate nights if you want the best of both worlds.
Aside from the above, ensure that your skincare routine focus on protection and hydration. Use a mild cleanser, hydrating serum or moisturiser and a broad-spectrum sunscreen. These will help support the skin barrier, minimise dryness and and enhance the anti-ageing results of both bakuchiol and retinol.
Bakuchiol offers impressive anti-ageing, brightening and acne clearing results with low risk of irritation on sensitive skin vs retinol. Whilst there are several studies comparing their effectiveness, they are still small in number and power. As such, retinol still remains the gold-standard in terms of size and long-term evidence. Whether to use one or the other or both depends on how sensitive your skin is and severity of concerns. Either way, it is best to use these ingredients cautiously and with the support of a hydrating and protective skincare routine.
At City Skin clinic, we are super passionate about personalised skincare. Our virtual skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skin tretaments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as Tretinoin and Hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Start your online consultation today. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
