Retinol is probably the holy-grail ingredients of the skincare world due to its anti-ageing, skin brightening and acne-clearing benefits. However, for those with sensitive or dry skin, incorporating Retinol into a routine can be challenging if not impossible. This is because of the potential for side effects like irritation, purging, redness and dryness. It doesn’t have to be this way though! It is actually possible or people even with the most sensitive skin to get all the benefits of Retinol safely. In this article we’ll explore the best types of Retinol for sensitive skin like Retinyl esters and how to introduce these gentle products into your routine with minimal risks.
Why Is Retinol So Problematic for Dry or Sensitive Skin?
Retinol and its derivatives (Retinoids) are forms of Vitamin A. The Vitamin A family is one of the most studied ingredients in skincare. They work by promoting skin cell turnover, stimulating collagen production and fading pigmentation. This makes Retinol and Retinoids ideal for addressing concerns like fine lines and wrinkles, acne, hyperpigmentation and uneven texture.
However, whilst Retinol’s effects are impressive, they often come with side effects especially for those with sensitive skin. The main problem is that it can cause a period of adjustment known as “retinoid dermatitis”. This phase usually causes redness, peeling, dryness and increased sensitivity as your skin adjusts to the increased cell turnover. For those with sensitive or dry skin, this reaction can be particularly intense as it is typically more reactive to environmental triggers, such as allergens, fragrances and harsh ingredients like Retinol. There may also be a period of purging (increased breakouts) in those with acne which can be more severe and persistent if your skin is sensitive.
The Best Types of Retinol for Dry or Sensitive Skin
When it comes to choosing a Retinol for dry or sensitive skin, 3 things matter. First is the type of retinoid, second is the formulation and last is the strength. Here’s what to look for when choosing a Retinol for your dry or sensitive skin:
- Type of Retinol: Luckily Retinol it self comes in multiple forms (derivatives). Retinyl esters are the gentlest form of Retinol derivatives and are ideal for sensitive skin. They are less potent than pure Retinol, but they still offer gradual improvements in skin texture and tone with minimal risk of irritation. Retinyl palmitate is one of the most common forms of Retinyl esters and is perfect for beginners with sensitive skin.
- Formulas: Some advanced Retinol formulations reduce the risk of Retinol side effects by employing a slow-release delivery system. This means the Retinol is released gradually into the skin over time. This helps to minimise irritation by avoiding a large burst of active ingredient that could overwhelm sensitive skin. Additionally, cream formulations of Retinol tend to be better for sensitive or dry skin than serums or gels. This is because they hydrate the skin and reduce the drying effect of Retinol.
- Low-Strength: Higher concentrations may be too strong, especially during the initial stages, and can lead to unwanted irritation and dryness. If you’re just starting out with Retinol or any Retinoid and have sensitive skin, always start with a lower concentration. Look for products with 0.25% Retinol or less or the equivalent strength for other Retinoid forms like Retinyl esters.
How to Start Using Retinol Products
You can successfully introduce Retinol into your skincare routine even if you have sensitive or very dry skin. All you need is the right product and a gentle gradual approach. Here’s how to do start using Retinol if you sensitive or dry skin:
- Start Slowly: For sensitive skin, slow and steady wins the race. Begin by using Retinol just once or twice a week to allow your skin time to adjust for a few weeks. Over time, you can gradually increase to three times a week (every other night) then nightly eventually if your skin tolerates it.
- Retinol at Night & SPF in the Day: Retinol is best applied at night as this is when your skin turns over most and because Retinol is sensitive to light. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 during the day (every day no matter the weather) to protect your skin from UV damage as Retinol will make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
- Sandwich Technique: If you have sensitive skin, sandwiching Retinol between two layers of moisturiser (or a hydrating serum then Retinol then moisturiser) will reduce its irritating effects and slow down absorption.
- Hydrate & Moisturise: Dry skin types are often more prone to the flaking and peeling that Retinol can cause. Apply a rich moisturiser after your Retinol product. Look for moisturisers with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, Vitamin E, niacinamide, squalane and glycerin which help restore and protect the skin barrier.
- Use a Gentle Cleanser: Opt for a hydrating cleanser that will clean without stripping your skin of moisture.
- Avoid Other Actives: When using Retinol on sensitive skin, it’s essential to avoid combining it with other potentially irritating ingredients like exfoliating acids or strong antioxidants (such as Vitamin C) until your skin has adjusted. Try to use other actives in the mornings and at strengths and frequencies appropriate for sensitive skin.
Most people can use some form of Retinol even if they have sensitive or dry skin. You just need to employ a mindful and careful approach. Start by choosing the right product and consider formulations like Retinyl esters or slow-release formulas that can help with sensitive skin. Also begin your journey with a low strength and slowly build up the frequency. You can also employ a few application tips that will help reduce irritation and minimise the dryness or flaking side effects. Just remember to always listen to your skin and take the time to build your skin’s tolerance.
At City Skin Clinic, we are devotees of personalised skincare. We offer safe and effective compound skincare treatments with prescription-strength ingredients including Tretinoin and Hydroquinone where appropriate through our online skin clinic. Our doctors treat a range of conditions such as acne and scars, hyperpigmentation, melasma, skin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
