POSTED: 9 Sep 2024

Combining Ingredients With Tretinoin, Here’s What Works (and What Doesn’t)

Tretinoin is one of the most powerful and effective skincare ingredients. It has a broad range of benefits particularly for acne, hyperpigmentation and skin ageing. There are decades of studies showing its ability to clear skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, brighten and improve overall texture. However, there is increasingly widespread availability of both Tretinoin as a standalone treatment and formulas mixing it with other active ingredients. As such, it can be confusing to figure out what is the best way to use it. In this article, we’ll explore everything you need to know about which are the best active ingredients that you can mix with Tretinoin in a single treatment and which ones to avoid. We’ll also review when it might be beneficial to use these combination treatments.

What is Tretinoin?

Tretinoin, which also goes by Retinoic acid, is a derivative of Vitamin A that has a record of use in Dermatology for over 50 years as a topical skin treatment. It is prescription-strength retinoid that is highly effective in addressing a range of skin concerns including acne, hyperpigmentation and signs of ageing. It works by accelerating cell turnover. This helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores and encourage the production of collagen.

Despite its incredible benefits, Tretinoin can cause irritation, peeling and even post inflammatory hyperpigmentation if you don’t use it correctly or appropriately. Due to this potency and risks, there’s a lot of confusion around mixing Tretinoin with other active ingredients and in general people think they need to avoid other strong ingredients. This is actually far from the truth and there are ingredients which pair very well with Tretinoin and of course other’s that you shouldn’t mix with it. Below we will dive into which active ingredients actually boost the effects of Tretinoin and can combine together in a single treatment.

Why Bother Mixing Tretinoin with Other Active Ingredients

Tretinoin is powerful on its own, but when paired with the right ingredients, it can offer even more impressive results. You can use these ingredients as separate treatments alongside Tretinoin by layering them in your skincare routine. Increasingly, and this is what we’re going to focus on in this article, you can find them compounded with Tretinoin so that they are present in the same formula. The main reasons to mix other active ingredients with Tretinoin include:

  • Boost Effectiveness: Some ingredients can amplify the effects of Tretinoin. This makes it more effective at treating specific concerns like pigmentation or acne.
  • Improve Tolerance: Tretinoin can be harsh, especially when you’re first starting or if you have sensitive skin. Certain ingredients can help calm the skin and reduce potential irritation.
  • Target Multiple Concerns: Whilst Tretinoin addresses many concerns, combining it with other actives can allow you to target additional issues. This includes problems like inflammation, hormonal imbalance, large pores or reactive skin conditions like Rosacea.

Best Ingredients to Mix with Tretinoin in a Single Treatment

Compound skincare treatments, where specialist pharmacies mix multiple active ingredients into a single formulation, have become increasingly popular. This is because they can simplify a skincare routine whilst delivering targeted results. When you compound Tretinoin with the right active ingredients, the synergy can significantly enhance the treatment’s effectiveness whilsy minimising potential irritation. Below are the best active ingredients that can be mixed with Tretinoin in a single compounded treatment.

Niacinamide

Vitamin B3 or Niacinamide is a common choice for compounding with Tretinoin due to its skin brightening and pore tightening properties. It also has anti-inflammatory benefits and can help soothe the skin as well as strengthen the skin’s barrier. These benefits make Niacinamide a good booster for Tretinoin’s smoothing and skin tone evening benefits whilst helping to reduce its drying side effects.

Azelaic Acid

This is a gentle but highly effective active ingredient that can be compounded with Tretinoin to address multiple concerns including acne, hyperpigmentation, and inflammation. Azelaic acid’s anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties make it particularly beneficial for those with Rosacea, acne-prone or sensitive skin.

Hydroquinone

In general, Hydroquinone is a powerful skin-lightening agent often compounded with Tretinoin to target hyperpigmentation and melasma. In addition to its own skin brightening effects, Tretinoin also enhances Hydroquinone’s penetration. As such this duo work well together to tackle dark spots and uneven discolouration.

Spironolactone

This is an anti-androgen medication commonly used to treat hormonal acne. When compounded with Tretinoin, Spironolactone can help decrease oil production which alongside Tretinoin’s pore clearing actions can helps to clear and prevent breakouts.

Antibiotics

Topical antibiotics, such as clindamycin or erythromycin, are commonly used to treat acne by reducing bacteria and inflammation on the skin. Antibiotics help to kill the bacteria (specifically Propionibacterium acnes or P.acnes) responsible for acne breakouts and reduce inflammation to treat breakouts. When compounded with Tretinoin, you get a dual-action approach to acne treatment, where antibiotics fight bacterial infection while Tretinoin prevents clogged pores and accelerates skin cell turnover. For this reason, antibiotics are often more effective in this combination and there may even be a lower risk of developing bacterial resistance.

Benzoyl Peroxide

This is a powerful ingredient and is one of the most effective ingredients for reducing P.acnes bacteria on the skin and exfoliating the skin. When compounded with Tretinoin, this combination helps to clear out pores by exfoliating dead skin cells, reducing oil build-up and of course killing acne causing bacteria. However, mixing Benzoyl peroxide with Tretinoin can be tricky due to the potential for increased irritation and dryness so this combination is less commonly used.

Hyaluronic Acid

One of the most popular hydrating ingredients, Hyaluronic acid is excellent to pair with Tretinoin in compounded treatments. It helps to counteract the dryness and flaking effects of Tretinoin by drawing moisture into the skin, keeping it plump and hydrated. It can also help calm irritation which makes it a good ingredient especially for thsoe with more sensitive or dry skin.

Peptides

These are a group of amino acids that play a crucial role in skin repair and collagen production. When compounded with Tretinoin, peptides may enhance its anti-ageing benefits by helping to improve skin firmness and elasticity. They can also help reinforce the skin’s barrier and improve skin texture.

Ceramides

Quite simply, ceramides are essential lipids that help maintain the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Incorporating ceramides into a compounded Tretinoin formula can help to reinforce the skin barrier and prevent moisture loss. This combats against dryness and may even reduce the chances of irritation.

Ingredients You Should Avoid Combining with Tretinoin

Whilst some active ingredients work really well with Tretinoin, there are others that can cause irritation, dryness and skin damage. As such these ingredients should not be compounded in a single formula with Tretinoin. In fact, many should not even be used at the same time at all. Here’s a of the main ingredients you should avoid mixing with Tretinoin:

  • Exfoliating acids: These include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid and and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid. Use of these acids with Tretinoin can cause over-exfoliation and irritation which can lead to redness, dryness and peeling. To avoid this, use exfoliating acids at a different time of day to Tretinoin. If your skin is sensitive or dry, you may need to use only on days when you’re not applying Tretinoin. Opt for milder exfoliants like lactic acid or low concentrations and use at lower frequencies.
  • Vitamin C: This is a powerful antioxidant that brightens the skin and protects against environmental damage. However, it is best to not mix or use Vitamin C at the same time as Tretinoin. This will avoid causing irritation. If you have sensitive skin opt for forms of Vitamin C that are less irritating. In any case, if you’re starting out opt for lower strengths of Vitamin C. Begin with a few mornings a week then build up to daily.

Mixing active ingredients with tretinoin can enhance your skincare results, but it’s crucial to do so carefully. There are certain active and non active ingredients that can complement Tretinoin’s benefits and reduce its side effects. You can get it if appropriate by prescription as either a single treatment or in combination with other actives. For the latter, you will need a doctor who is able to prescribe compound treatments. They will then get your prescription formulated by specialist compounding pharmacy for you. This will ensure that the formulations created are effective and stable. On the other hand, there are some ingredients you should avoid using at the same time as Tretinoin. Since Tretinoin is a prescription only treatment, speak with your medical provider first. They will advise whether single ingredient Tretinoin, compound formulas or layering would be safest and best for you.

At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about individualised skincare. We offer safe and effective compound skincare treatments with prescription-strength ingredients. These include Tretinoin and Hydroquinone where appropriate through online skin clinic. Our doctors treat a range of conditions such as acne and scars, hyperpigmentationmelasmaskin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.

Authored by:

Dr Amel Ibrahim
Aesthetic Doctor & Medical Director
BSC (HONS) MBBS MRCS PHD
Founder City Skin Clinic
Member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England
Associate Member of British Association of Body Sculpting GMC Registered - 7049611

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