Exfoliation seems to cause no end of grief to most of our readers because of all the mixed advice out there. There is a lot of noise about how to exfoliate. People wonder which products to choose, when to exfoliate and how on earth you know if you are over-exfoliating. Well, fear no more, because we’ve decided to settle this for good with our guide to exfoliating at home. We’ve simplified the whole process for you. You’ll get the essential facts about the differences between physical, enzyme and acid (chemical) exfoliants, plus how to choose one based on your skin type. We hope this tunes out some of the noise around the subject. So, sit back and learn how to choose the best exfoliant for your skin type and how to exfoliate just the right amount.
What is Physical Exfoliation?
The most basic and most common method of exfoliating is by using a physical exfoliant. This involves using a product or tool which mechanically buffs away dead skin cells. Widely used physical exfoliants include face scrubs, exfoliating mitts, sponges or brushes. Scrubs tend to contain microparticles like fruit stone fragments, small grains, coffee grounds, salt or sugar. Sponges and brushes also physically remove dead skin from the surface.
Physical exfoliation is a little harsher than chemical or enzyme exfoliants. However, it is very convenient and can work well on the thicker skin on the body. Products that contain fruit stone fragments can be a bit too harsh. They can even cause micro-tears in the skin, which can lead to scarring. Scrubs that contain coffee grounds, salt or sugar are effective but much gentler if you wish to use a physical exfoliant on the face. If you use sponges, brushes or exfoliating mitts, ensure you do so on wet skin to avoid injuring it.
Professional physical methods like microdermabrasion and dermaplaning also exist, but these are in-clinic procedures rather than at-home options. Both carry a risk of skin injury, so you should only have them done by a professional.
What is Enzyme Exfoliation?
This is one of the gentlest and most fun ways to exfoliate, and it can suit people with very sensitive skin. Most enzyme exfoliants are derived from fruit. Pumpkin, pineapple and papaya are the most popular ones. These fruits contain a specific enzyme. It breaks down dead cells and loosens their connection to the skin, causing them to fall off. They also usually contain a number of vitamins including B and C, which further brighten the skin and give a radiant complexion. They’re usually sold as a mask which you apply at home and wash off after a set period. This makes them an easy place to start.
What is Chemical Exfoliation with Acids?
This both excites and instils dread into the hearts of many a beauty aficionado. The idea of applying acid to your face does seem pretty scary, but it needn’t be, provided you select the appropriate product. Most exfoliating acids can be broadly divided into alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Both resurface the skin by removing dead cells on the surface. The difference is that AHAs are water-soluble. They loosen the connections that keep dead cells attached to the skin, causing the cells to fall off. BHAs, on the other hand, are oil-soluble and break down the connections between the dead cells, which hastens their shedding. They also penetrate deep into the pores and possess antibacterial and anti-inflammatory actions.
In general, BHAs are ideal for oily or acne-prone skin, whilst AHAs are best for ageing or dry skin. In reality, you can safely use them together to achieve many different effects. At higher concentrations, exfoliating acids are also used in professional chemical peels, which penetrate more deeply for more dramatic and longer-lasting effects. These need to be administered by a professional for safety and optimal results.
How Do You Choose the Right Exfoliant for Your Skin Type?
This is much easier than you might think and boils down to understanding your skin type. It also helps to know whether you have dry, oily or combination skin. From there, identify your main concerns (such as ageing, acne or uneven tone) and your goals (such as younger-looking, brighter or smoother skin). With that in mind, here is how to choose the right exfoliant for each skin type.
- Normal skin: If you fit into this camp, the world is your oyster. For the best results though, we would recommend passing over physical exfoliants in favour of enzyme or acid exfoliants for normal skin. That’s because the latter are far more effective and gentler. Papaya or pineapple enzymes or AHAs (chiefly glycolic acid) will remove dead cells, improve skin texture and brighten the face.
- Dry skin: Dry skin is very delicate, so avoid physical exfoliants as they can cause micro-tears in the skin. Opt for enzyme exfoliation or AHAs to smooth texture, remove flaking and tackle dullness. If your skin is quite sensitive, try a lactic acid based exfoliant, which is a very gentle way to chemically exfoliate.
- Oily skin: If you have oily skin, you have quite a fair bit of choice. Physical exfoliants can work well here, in particular to clear clogged pores. Opt for either a sugar-based polish, coffee-based scrub or even a sponge or brush. It’s a good idea to combine physical exfoliation with a chemical exfoliant. If you have blocked pores and acne-prone skin, then BHA exfoliants containing salicylic acid are your new best friend. If ageing is also a concern, you can add a glycolic or lactic acid exfoliant alongside the salicylic acid.
- Combination skin: Here’s where the fun starts. Combination skin usually involves a very oily T-zone with normal or even dry skin on the rest of the face. In this case, use a physical exfoliant on the T-zone. Then follow up with a salicylic exfoliant there and a lactic, glycolic or even enzyme exfoliant on the whole face afterwards. This will clarify your T-zone and also provide smoother, brighter and younger-looking skin to the rest of the face.
How Often Should You Exfoliate?
This depends on the product you use. Physical exfoliants, enzyme masks and acid masks should be used 1 to 2 times a week at most. Acid-based cleansers and toners can be built up to daily use if the product is designed for this. These will only contain a small concentration. If your skin becomes sensitive or starts to feel tight or uncomfortable, then reduce the frequency of your exfoliation. If you’re doing well on this routine but want to boost your results, some people also add professional in-clinic treatments like chemical peels every 6 to 8 weeks. These sit separately from an at-home routine. Above all, be patient and consistent. Head over to our skincare routine pages to learn how to build a routine around your skin type.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online clinic offers safe and effective treatments using ingredients like tretinoin and hydroquinone where appropriate. Our doctors treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin and hair starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin or treatment options.
