Dry, rough or uneven skin can be super frustrating to deal with. Especially when even the fancy moisturisers don’t seem to do enough! Sometimes, you need to get back to basics. If you’ve been searching for an ingredient that deeply hydrates whilst also smoothing skin, urea might just be it. An oldie but a goodie, urea has a long history of use in dermatology. It is a massively underrated ingredient which both moisturises and gently exfoliates skin. Whilst not fashionable, look up any popular longstanding skin cream for uses like stubborn dryness or rough patches and you’ll find urea. In this article, we’ll take a deep dive into urea’s skin benefits and uses as well as the best way to use it in your skincare routine.
What is Urea?
Urea might not be the first skincare ingredient that comes to mind, but it has been a hero in dermatology for centuries. Whilst today’s urea is synthetically produced for consistency and safety, its origins can be traced back to natural sources. Historically, urea came from urine and animal waste, as these were rich in nitrogenous compounds. In fact ancient civilisations, including the Egyptians, Romans and Chinese, were known to use urine in medicinal treatments and skincare rituals due to its ability to soften and heal the skin. Records suggest that Roman physicians prescribed urine-based ointments for wound healing and skin ailments. In traditional Chinese medicine, aged urine was sometimes used as a remedy for burns, infections and dry skin conditions.
The true value of urea only became apparent in the 18th century. This is when it became the first organic compound to be synthesised in a lab by German chemist Friedrich Wöhler in 1828. This breakthrough eliminated the need for natural sources whilst making the ingredient more accessible and effective. Today, we also know that urea is also an important component of the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF). This a group of naturally existing molecules in skin that work together to keep it hydrated, smooth and resilient. As part of the NMF, urea plays a vital role in maintaining moisture balance, skin barrier function and skin health.
Due to its unique dual-action skin benefits, urea became a staple in skincare. It acts as an humectant by drawing moisture into the skin. It is also a keratolytic agent to gently soften and exfoliate rough or flaky patches. This makes it especially effective for treating conditions like eczema, psoriasis and keratosis pilaris. Urea creams are also popular in uses like tackling dryness, cracked heels and calluses.
Benefits of Urea for Skin
Urea is a multitasking skincare ingredient and is also naturally found in the skin. It works deep within the skin’s layers to support overall skin health through two key actions. Firstly, urea is a powerful humectant, meaning it attracts and holds water in the skin. Secondly, urea also has keratolytic properties so it dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells to help increase cell turnover. As such, the key skin benefits and uses of urea include:
- Deep Hydration: Urea provides intense hydration because it penetrates deep into the skin and binds moisture. This actively improves the skin’s ability to retain moisture thus ensuring long-lasting hydration and. As such, urea is useful for those struggling with chronic dry, dehydrated or flaky skin.
- Gentle Exfoliation: One of urea’s unique benefits is that it hydrates and exfoliates skin at the same time. It gently dissolves keratin bonds which helps your skin shed dead cells naturally. This makes it particularly effective for smoothing rough patches on the elbows, knees, and feet. Urea creams also have uses in smoothing dry uneven skin texture without causing irritation.
- Skin Barrier Support: A healthy skin barrier is crucial for keeping moisture in and irritants out. Urea helps support the skin’s protective barrier by improving lipid production and reducing transepidermal water loss. This means that with regular use, urea makes the skin more resilient.
- Tackles Chronic Skin Conditions: Urea is also a common ingredient in management of chronic skin conditions where dryness is a problem. This includes chronic conditions like eczema where it provides relief from itching and dryness and psoriasis where it reduces scaling and roughness. Similarly, in Keratosis Pilaris, urea softens and smooths the tiny bumps commonly found on the arms and thighs. It is also a star ingredient in creams for cracked heels and calluses where it helps soften thickened skin for easier removal.
- Improves Skin Texture & Dullness: Regular use of urea can make skin softer and smoother. It’s also effective at reducing the appearance of dull skin as well as fine lines by improving hydration and cell turnover.
How to Use Urea in Your Skincare Routine
The great thing about urea is it is available in a large number of skincare products. However, as its nor a trendy ingredient you may need to do a bit of searching as its often not marketed. The easiest way to find urea is to look for creams advertising uses like chapped, cracked, rough or bumpy skin then look at the label for the ingredients. If you need to use it on the face or for sensitive skin then look for it in the dry or eczema prone skin moisturisers section. Here are our top tips to get the most benefits out of urea skincare for your skin:
- Choose the Right Concentration for Your Skin Needs: Urea containing skin products come in a range of concentrations, each formulated to address specific skin concerns. Lower concentrations (5-10%) are ideal for daily hydration and mild dryness, particularly on the face and sensitive skin. They can help replenish moisture levels and maintain skin softness. Moderate concentrations (10-20%) are better for treating rough patches, keratosis pilaris (KP) and moderate dryness. These concentrations offer a balance of hydration and gentle exfoliation. For more stubborn concerns, higher concentrations (20-40%) are typically found in targeted treatments designed for severely dry, callused, or thickened skin. This includes things like cracked heels or chronic rough patches. These strong formulas work to break down hardened skin. You should use them selectively on problem areas rather than all over the body.
- Apply to Damp Skin: For maximum absorption, apply urea-based products to clean and slightly damp skin. This helps lock in moisture and enhances the urea’s ability to hydrate deeply. The best time to use urea creams or lotions is after showering or cleansing.
- Pair with Complementary Ingredients: Urea works best when combined with other moisturising and soothing ingredients that enhance its hydrating and skin-repairing properties. Formulations that include ceramides can help to strengthen the skin barrier and lock in moisture. Glycerin and hyaluronic acid further boost hydration by drawing water into the skin and enhancing its ability to retain moisture. For those with sensitive or irritated skin, aloe vera and niacinamide provide additional calming and anti-inflammatory benefits helping to reduce redness, and soothe irritation.
- Always Use Sunscreen: Since urea promotes gentle exfoliation, it can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) especially if you’re using urea on your face or other sun-exposed areas.
Side Effects & Precautions
Most people generally tolerate urea, but as with any active ingredient, there are risks or irritation and allergic reactions. Before starting urea, consider the below:
- Patch Test First: Do this if you’re using a urea product for the first time. Apply a small amount to a discreet area and wait 24 hours to check for any signs of irritation or sensitivity.
- Avoid Applying to Broken Skin: Whilst urea is great for softening rough patches, higher concentrations can sting or cause pain when applied to open wounds, severely cracked skin, or cuts. If have broken skin, consult a doctor or pharmacist before use.
- Start with a Lower Concentration: If you’re new to urea, wish to use it on the face or have sensitive skin it’s best to begin with a lower concentration (5-10%). Only use higher concentrations (20% and above) sparingly and on targeted areas. You should not use them on the face or sensitive skin.
Urea is the real deal. A rare skincare ingredient, urea skin cream delivers multiple actions and has decades of research behind its many uses. The main benefits of urea are that it hydrates, exfoliates and supports skin health. There are however a few tips and tricks to keep in mind to help you get the most out of urea in your skincare. As always, patience and consistency are the key to getting the benefits of urea for your skin.
At City Skin Clinic, we are beyond passionate about personalised skincare. We offer safe and effective custom skincare treatments using prescription-strength ingredients like Tretinoin and Hydroquinone where appropriate through our online skin clinic. Our doctors treat a range of conditions such as acne and scars, hyperpigmentation, melasma, skin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.