Vitamin C vs Niacinamide, Which is Better for Your Skin?

Vitamin C and niacinamide are two of the most effective skincare ingredients. Both are often on the top of the list for glass skincare routines because of their brightening and anti-ageing benefits. Despite their overlapping effects, they are very different ingredients with unique actions and are not interchangeable. In this article, we explore how vitamin C and niacinamide work and what they do for skin. We’ll discuss the differences between niacinamide vs vitamin c, how to decide which one is best for you and best way to use them in your skincare routine.

Why use Vitamin C & Niacinamide in Skincare?

Both vitamin c and niacinamide sit at the heart of brightening and anti-ageing skincare routines. The main reasons for this include:

• Hyperpigmentation: They can help reduce sunspots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
• Brightness: They help reduce dullness and even out tone so that the skin looks fresher and more radiant.
• Texture: They can reduce roughness and fine lines for smoother skin.
• Skin Quality: They can boost overall skin health and support its integrity.

Despite these overlapping and complementary actions, vitamin C and niacinamide work very differently on the skin. Each has its own strengths and limitations.

What Does Vitamin C Do?

Vitamin C is one of the most researched topical antioxidants. It plays a key role in protecting the skin from oxidative stress thereby protecting skin from some of the effects of sun damage and supporting collagen production. This makes it particularly helpful for those concerned with early signs of photo-ageing such as fine lines, skin laxity and sunspots. There are many different types and formulations of vitamin C in skincare:

• Ascorbic Acid: This is the most common form of vitamin C. It works best at concentrations of around 10% to 20% but can be unstable. It can also cause tingling, stinging or dryness especially in sensitive or reactive skin.
• Vitamin C Derivatives: These include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. They tend to be more stable and gentler so as such may better suit those with sensitive skin.
• Fancy Formulations: In addition to the type of vitamin c, the formula can be further adapted for additional benefits. Low pH serums and those combined with ferulic acid or vitamin E can be more potent for brightening and anti-oxidant protection. However, they may not suit those with sensitive or reactive skin.

What Does Niacinamide Work?

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a truly multi-tasking ingredient in skincare which is generally well tolerated in appropriate strengths. Its main benefits are that it helps fade hyperpigmentation, supports the skin barrier and improves the appearance of visible pores. Niacinamide also reduces inflammation and helps regulate oil which helps calm redness and treat acne-prone skin. Whilst there aren’t many different types of niacinamide (unlike vitamin C), strength really matters. Most people usually tolerate niacinamide 2-5% which is enough for hydration, barrier support and supporting acne skincare. Higher niacinamide strengths of up to 10% can help target hyperpigmentation and visible pores but may be very irritating for some people.

Differences Between Vitamin C vs Niacinamide

Whilst both vitamin C and niacinamide can help with brightness and hyperpigmentation, they differ in how they work and where they are strongest. Understanding these differences will help you decide which to focus on or whether to use both. Here’s how vitamin C vs niacinamide compare for treating key skin conditions:

• Hyperpigmentation: Vitamin C can influence the steps involved in melanin formation through its anti-oxidant action. It is particularly helpful for preventing and fading sun-induced hyperpigmentation and uneven tone. Niacinamide helps reduce excess pigment transfer to the upper layers of the skin and calms inflammation. As such it is useful for both sunspots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Neither are useful alone for more severe or deep hyperpigmentation or melasma.
• Brightness: Both vitamin C and niacinamide can brighten the skin mainly by evening it out and improving its hydration and quality.
• Texture & Pores: Vitamin C can help smooth fine lines by boosting collagen production. Niacinamide tends to be more effective for reducing appearance of large pores and roughness due to its effects on oil regulation and skin barrier repair.
• Firmness & Elasticity: The ability of vitamin C to boost collagen synthesis helps improve firmness and bounce. Niacinamide also helps protect existing collagen by reducing oxidative and inflammatory stress but does not stimulate collagen to the same degree.
• Tolerability: Niacinamide is usually easier to tolerate especially at lower strengths and is suitable for sensitive, rosacea or acne-prone skin. Vitamin C can cause irritation in some people particularly at higher concentrations or ascorbic acid.
• Stability: Vitamin C, especially ascorbic acid, can easily oxidise and requires careful formulation and storage. It tends to have a lower shelf-life once open. Niacinamide is generally stable and works well in a wide range of products;

Which One Should You Choose?

So here’s the thing. There is no single “better” ingredient. When it comes to deciding between vitamin c vs niacinamide, the right choice depends on your skin type and concerns. As a general rule of thumb choose:

• Vitamin C if your main concerns are sun-induced hyperpigmentation, fine lines and your skin can tolerate active ingredients well.
• Niacinamide if your skin is sensitive, dry, reactive, acne-prone and you have large pores and mild hyperpigmentation.

Can You Use Vitamin C & Niacinamide Together?

You can use both these ingredients together if you have a number of concerns, such as hyperpigmentation, dullness, rough texture, large pores and lines or wrinkles. You should however make sure that your skin is comfortable with multiple actives. If layering or using them together in one formula is too irritating, you can use them at separate times. Using vitamin C in the morning and niacinamide in the evening might make pairing them more comfortable. Vitamin C and niacinamide also work well alongside other active ingredients that are commonly used for hyperpigmentation and skin ageing:

• Retinoids: Both can complement retinol or prescription retinoids like tretinoin by targeting hyperpigmentation and lines or wrinkles. Niacinamide also supports the barrier and can help reduce dryness or irritation when starting retinoids.
• Exfoliants: Lactic, mandelic, polyhydroxy and azelaic acid provide gentle resurfacing that can also enhance radiance, improve uneven texture and support better penetration of both vitamin c and niacinamide though those with sensitive skin should avoid layering them.
• Brightening Agents: Ingredients like high strength azelaic acid, arbutin and kojic acid can be paired with vitamin C and niacinamide to target more stubborn hyperpigmentation. Hydroquinone may also be useful short term for more resistant dark patches, particularly in melasma or marked hyperpigmentation. It is however available by prescription only.
• Peptides: These can support hydration and skin repair, making them useful in routines aimed at maintaining elasticity and overall skin quality. They can also help with smoothing fine lines and wrinkles.
• Sunscreen: This is non negotiable. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 is essential when using any brightening or anti-ageing ingredients or treating photo-ageing.

Vitamin C and niacinamide are both extremely versatile ingredients than can help protect against and treat early signs of skin ageing. They can both brighten, smooth and boost the quality of the skin. However, they’re two different treatments and offer a range of separate benefits and limitations. Rather than crudely trying to pit vitamin C vs niacinamide, it is best to understand these differences and choose which one is best for your skin. It may also be useful to combine them if you have a range of skin issues and as always look at your whole skincare routine. These two ingredients pair well with a number of crucial skincare ingredients that help with hyperpigmentation, acne and skin ageing. Regardless of what you choose, remember that as with all skincare, the best results come from patience and consistency.

At City Skin clinic, we are always passionate about personalised skincare. Our virtual skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skin treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as Tretinoin and Hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Start your online consultation today. The journey towards great skin starts here.

This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.