Mandelic acid is one of the best gate-kept beauty ingredients and is popular with those in the know for its gentle yet powerful exfoliating properties. While it might not have the instant name recognition of glycolic or salicylic acid, mandelic acid exfoliant is a versatile skincare ingredient. It also works on a wide range of skin types and tones. In this article, we’ll explore the benefits of mandelic acid for skin, who it is best for and how to use it in your skincare routine for best results.
What is Mandelic Acid & How Does it Work?
Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that’s derived from bitter almonds. Unlike other AHAs, it has a larger molecular structure, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly. This slower absorption rate makes it less irritating than other AHAs like glycolic acid. For this reason, mandelic acid provides more gentle exfoliation with minimal irritation.
As an exfoliant, mandelic acid works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells. This allows their faster removal from the skin’s surface. By increasing the turnover of these cells, it helps to reveal a fresher layer of skin which manifests as brighter smoother complexion. It can also penetrate deeper layers of the skin and has antimicrobial properties. All this makes mandelic acid effective for addressing specific skin issues like fine lines, wrinkles, texture, acne and hyperpigmentation.
Benefits of Mandelic Acid for Skin
When it comes to skincare, mandelic acid offers several key benefits which can address a variety of skin concerns across different skin types. Here are some of the main benefits of mandelic acid for skin:
- Gentle Exfoliation: Mandelic acid’s unique molecular structure allows it to penetrate the skin slowly which reduces the risk of irritation. This makes it an ideal exfoliant for people with sensitive skin and those who experience irritation or post inflammatory hyperpigmentation with other AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid.
- Improves Skin Texture & Tone: Regular use of mandelic acid can smooth rough texture and even out skin tone. Its gentle exfoliating properties help to refine the appearance of pores and surface-level blemishes or imperfections. This all helps to make skin look smoother and brighter.
- Targets Hyperpigmentation & Dark Spots: Mandelic acid is effective at fading hyperpigmentation, dark spots and post acne marks.
- Helps Clear Acne: Due to its antibacterial properties, mandelic acid can help to prevent acne-causing bacteria from thriving. It’s also more lipophilic than other AHAs which means it can penetrate deeper into pores to unclog them and reduce breakouts. For this reason it is suitable for oily and acne-prone skin types where it can be a gentler alternative to salicylic acid.
- Anti-Ageing: By promoting cell turnover, mandelic acid helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps boost collagen production which can lead to firmer, elastic and younger looking skin.
Despite all the huge benefits, remember that nothing in skincare works over night. Results with mandelic acid can vary depending on the skin issue being addressed and your individual factors. Whilst some people may start noticing a smoother texture and more even tone within 2-4 weeks, most people will need to use it for at least 6-8 weeks to start noticing anything. For pigmentation or anti-ageing benefits, it normally takes several months of consistent use to see noticeable improvement.
How to Use Mandelic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
It’s pretty easy to add mandelic acid into your skincare routine. However, there are a few things you need to do ensure you use it correctly. Here are our top tips to maximise the benefits mandelic acid for your skin:
- Choose the Right Product: Mandelic acid is available in various formulations, including serums, toners and masks. Toners are most popular as they’re easy to use and you can easily layered with other. Typically, concentrations range from 5% to 10% and its generally best to start with a lower one before working up.
- Start Slowly: Even though mandelic acid is gentle, it’s still advisable to start slowly, especially if you’re new to chemical exfoliants. Begin by using it 1-2 times a week, gradually increasing frequency as your skin adjusts. Overuse can still lead to irritation and skin barrier damage, so monitor your skin’s response carefully.
- Timing Matters: Try to be consistent. Night time is best if you are not using any actives like Retinoids otherwise use it in the mornings.
- SPF is Mandatory: Like most exfoliants, mandelic acid makes your skin more sensitive to sunlight. Always use a broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day regardless of the weather.
- Pair with Hydrating Ingredients: After using mandelic acid, follow up with hydrating products like serums or moisturiser. Look for products containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, Vitamin B5, ceramides or Vitamin E. This helps to maintain moisture and reduces any risk of dryness or irritation.
- Be Mindful When Layering with Other Actives: While it’s possible to use mandelic acid and other actives in the same skincare routine, you will need to be more thoughtful. It’s best to avoid layering mandelic acid with other exfoliants or ingredients like retinol and vitamin C initially. Use them at a different time of day or on different dats until you know how your skin reacts. This will help reduce the risk of sensitivity or irritation.
Risks & Who Should Avoid it
So mandelic acid is generally safe for most skin types including sensitive skin due to its gentle nature. However, there are still risks of dryness, peeling, irritation and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. As with any new skincare ingredient, you should patch test first to check for allergies or reactions. If no problems, always introduce it slowly to your routine and monitor how your skin responds.
Also beware that depsite its gentle nature, mandelic acid is not be suitable for everyone. If you have severe skin conditions like eczema or rosacea for example, you should speak with your dermatologist first. Additionally, if you have any food or nut allergies, please check with your healthcare provider before using it, as it is derived from almonds. Lastly, if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding then check with your doctor before introducing any new skincare products to ensure they’re safe for use.
Mandelic acid is a powerful yet gentle exfoliant that’s ideal for people looking to improve skin texture, tone and clarity without the irritation. Its benefits extend to acne-prone, ageing, hyperpigmented and sensitive skin. This making it a versatile ingredient in any skincare regimen. As always though, patience is key! You will need to use it consistently as part of a good skincare routine to get healthier, smoother and more radiant skin.
At City Skin clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our virtual skin clinic offers safe and effective custom treatments. Where approriate we use ingredients such Tretinoin and Hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Book a virtual consultation with one of our doctors today. The journey towards great skin starts here.
