Petrolatum is a popular skincare ingredient with many uses and formulas, the most famous being Vaseline petroleum jelly. Although it has been a staple in dermatology for decades, it remains unfashionable and even controversial in the beauty industry. In this article we explore what petrolatum and petroleum jelly are and their benefits for skin. We also review their safety and the best way to use them in your routine.
What is Petrolatum?
Petrolatum is a semi-solid jelly that comes from petroleum refining. It is an occlusive agent that forms a protective barrier on the skin, reducing water loss and increasing hydration. Petroleum jelly is odourless, colourless and inert, which is why it rapidly became a common ingredient in skincare, medicinal ointments and cosmetics.
In the mid-19th century the chemist Robert Chesebrough noticed that oil workers used it to heal cuts and burns. In 1872 he patented the purification process and introduced Vaseline, the first petroleum jelly product for the skin. Since then, petrolatum has become a staple in moisturisers, healing ointments and lip balms. Today it comes in many formulas beyond traditional petroleum jelly, from rich healing balms to intensive creams and medicated ointments. You will also find it in brands like Aquaphor, CeraVe, Eucerin, E45 and, of course, Vaseline.
What are the Benefits of Petrolatum for Skin?
Petrolatum remains one of the most affordable and versatile skincare ingredients. This is largely thanks to its ability to lock in moisture, protect the barrier and aid healing. Here are its key benefits for skin:
- Intense moisturising: As an occlusive agent, petrolatum forms a barrier that prevents water loss. This makes it highly effective for dry, cracked or irritated skin, particularly in harsh weather.
- Soothes and heals damaged skin: Petroleum jelly has wide uses in wound healing, since it protects minor cuts, burns, breakouts and grazes whilst keeping the skin moist. This helps provide faster healing and less scarring.
- Strengthens the skin barrier: For those with eczema, psoriasis or a damaged skin barrier, petrolatum reduces moisture loss and reinforces the skin’s natural defences. This calms irritation and inflammation.
- Prevents chafing and friction: Thanks to its thick texture, petroleum jelly reduces friction. This makes it an excellent choice for reducing chafing on the thighs, under the arms and heels, especially in hot or humid weather.
- Versatile: Petrolatum is hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic, so it will not clog pores and suits most skin types, including sensitive, acne-prone and reactive skin.
How Do You Find the Best Petrolatum Product?
Not all petrolatum is the same. Before adding it to your routine, it helps to understand the different grades available:
- White petrolatum: This is the highest grade, thoroughly refined to remove any impurities. It is the safest form, and you will commonly find it in skincare and pharmaceutical products.
- Yellow petrolatum: This is a less refined version that retains some impurities, so it suits industrial use more than cosmetics.
- USP-grade petrolatum: This meets United States Pharmacopeia (USP) purity standards, which ensures it is safe for medical and dermatological use. It is best for wound care, post-procedure healing and sensitive skin.
For skincare, always look for white and, where possible, USP-grade petrolatum, as it is free from contaminants and safe for long-term use. Most reputable brands use purified petrolatum, but it is always best to check the label. You also need to consider which formula suits your skin:
- Pure petroleum jelly: Great for most uses, with intense moisture locking, wound healing, cracked skin and slugging.
- Petrolatum-based creams: Lighter and less greasy, so they suit daily hydration and barrier repair.
- Lotions: Their lightweight, spreadable nature makes them ideal for full-body hydration.
- Medicated ointments: Best for wound care, post-procedure healing and sensitive skin.
What are the Best Ways to Use Petrolatum?
Used correctly, petrolatum is an excellent multi-purpose ingredient that provides moisture, protection and repair. Here are the best ways to add it to your routine:
- Moisturiser for dry skin: Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or a petrolatum-based cream over damp skin to seal in hydration. It is particularly good for elbows, knees, feet and hands.
- Balm for chapped or cracked skin: Petrolatum is common in lip balms and foot creams thanks to its ability to prevent water loss and heal cracked skin. Layer it over something like a urea cream for best results.
- Under-eye hydration: Dab a tiny amount under the eyes at night to prevent dryness and fine lines. This helps in cold weather or if you are using retinoids.
- Healing wounds, burns and post-procedure skin: Dermatologists often recommend petrolatum after laser treatments, chemical peels or minor surgery, as it keeps wounds moist and speeds up healing.
- Preventing and treating irritation: Petrolatum is common in nappy rash creams because it creates a protective barrier against excess moisture. You can also use it for maskne or reactive skin.
- Protecting the skin barrier: A thin layer can shield the skin from harsh weather, reducing windburn, chapping and winter dryness. It is perfect for lips, hands and exposed areas of the face.
- Slugging: Slugging is one of the most popular uses. You apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly over your moisturiser at night to prevent transepidermal water loss. It helps restore hydration, repair the barrier and boost suppleness, so it is particularly good for dry, mature or rough skin.
Is Petrolatum Safe?
Petrolatum is widely considered a safe and effective skincare ingredient. However, as with any product, there are some points to keep in mind:
- Oily or acne-prone skin: Although petrolatum is non-comedogenic, its occlusive barrier can trap oil, bacteria and dead skin cells if applied over unclean skin. This may then contribute to breakouts. Always apply it over clean and well-exfoliated skin.
- Potential allergies: Rarely, some people experience sensitivity, irritation or an allergic reaction to petrolatum-based products. This is more likely when a product contains added fragrance or preservatives, so choose products without scent and patch test before wider use.
- Use only purified petrolatum: Low-grade or industrial versions may contain trace polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which can cause cancer. Always choose white, USP-grade petrolatum that meets pharmaceutical or dermatological standards.
What are the Myths and Facts About Petrolatum?
Despite its benefits, petrolatum has long been the subject of debate in the beauty industry. Concerns range from contamination to sustainability and misunderstanding about how it affects the skin. Here is what we actually know:
- Safety and contamination: The biggest concern is the potential presence of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, compounds found in unrefined petroleum that have been linked to cancer risks. Manufacturers strictly purify cosmetic-grade petrolatum to remove these. High-quality white USP-grade petrolatum also passes dermatological testing and meets strict safety regulations in the UK, EU and US.
- Environmental impact: Petrolatum is derived from petroleum, a non-renewable fossil fuel, which raises sustainability concerns. It is a by-product of oil refining, so it reduces waste from the industry, but its long-term footprint is still debated. For this reason, some eco-conscious consumers prefer plant-based alternatives with similar benefits like Shea butter.
- The “suffocating skin” myth: There is a common belief that petrolatum suffocates the skin and blocks pores. This is a misunderstanding. The truth is it forms a barrier on the surface that prevents water loss without penetrating into the skin or blocking pores.
Whilst some of these concerns are valid, petrolatum remains a dermatologist-approved ingredient with a safe track record over decades in medical and skincare formulas. As long as you choose high-quality, purified petrolatum, it can be a safe and effective addition to your routine.
What are the Alternatives to Petrolatum?
If you prefer a natural, plant-based or more eco-friendly option, several ingredients offer at least one or two of the same benefits. The below have the most similar moisture-locking and protective properties:
- Shea butter: A rich, natural emollient that deeply hydrates whilst also calming the skin. Shea butter is particularly good for dry, sensitive or irritated skin and is used in its pure form or in creams, balms and body butters.
- Beeswax: Like petrolatum, beeswax forms a protective barrier that locks in moisture and guards against environmental stressors. You will commonly find it in lip balms, ointments and protective creams.
- Propolis: Sometimes called bee glue, propolis is a resin-like substance with moisturising, healing and antibacterial properties. It soothes and protects the skin whilst aiding wound healing, so it is particularly good for compromised barriers.
- Squalane: A lightweight, non-greasy alternative that hydrates whilst providing support to the skin’s natural lipid barrier. Unlike petrolatum, squalane absorbs quickly and does not leave a heavy, occlusive feel.
- Coconut oil: A natural occlusive with antibacterial properties, coconut oil helps hydrate and protect the skin, though it has a high comedogenic rating, so it suits dry or eczema skin best.
- Lanolin: A natural wax from wool, prized for its moisture-locking ability. It works well on dry, cracked skin and appears in nourishing creams and lip balms, though some people are sensitive to it.
Petrolatum and petroleum jelly remain two of the most effective and affordable beauty ingredients. The ability to lock in moisture, aid wound healing and protect the skin barrier makes them a staple in many routines. Although there are debates about their origins and production, skincare-grade petrolatum has a long track record of safety. As always, it is key to use it correctly as part of a regular routine.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about bespoke skincare. Our online skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skin treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as tretinoin and hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult with a doctor or other health provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
