Malic acid is not a household name in skincare, but it’s quietly built a solid reputation as an effective yet gentle exfoliant. As a milder alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), malic acid can help brighten, smooth and hydrate the complexion. It also works across a variety of skin types and tones. In this article, we’ll explore the benefits of malic acid for skin, who its best for and risks. We’ll also advise how to use it into your skincare routine for best results.
What is Malic Acid?
This is AHA is found naturally in many fruits, particularly apples and pears. Malic acid is water-soluble, meaning it works primarily on the skin’s surface to exfoliate dead skin cells. This means it is also not very effective on pores (for that you’re better off with salicylic or mandelic acid). It works by dissolving the glue between skin cells. This action helps remove dead cells and unveil a new layer of skin. What sets malic acid apart from other AHAs like glycolic and lactic acids, is its molecular structure. It has a larger molecule size, which allows malic acid to mainly work on exfoliating the skin’s surface. This slower absorption rate makes it a milder exfoliant. This is great for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin who may struggle with stronger acids.
Benefits of Malic Acid for Skin
Malic acid offers a range of skin benefits which with a relatively low risk of irritation. It can help target specific skin concerns or simply boost skin for radiant complexion. Here are the main benefits of malic acid for skin:
- Brighter Complexion: Over time malic acid helps fades pigmentation and evens out skin tone.
- Improved Skin Texture: Malic acid can help reduce roughness and smooth the skin.
- Boosts Hydration Levels: A big benefit of Malic acid is that it also has humectant properties. This means it can attract and retain moisture in the skin.
- Balances Skin pH: Malic acid can also help regulate the skin’s natural pH levels. This is crucial for skin health and maintaining a resilient skin barrier.
- Fights Signs of Ageing: By promoting exfoliation and supporting hydration, malic acid can help smooth wrinkles, fade sun spots and plump up the skin.
- Supports Other Skincare Ingredients: Malic acid’s gentle nature makes it a good companion to use alongside other active ingredients. It pairs well with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and is usually safe to use with antioxidants like vitamin C, retinoids and even other exfoliating acids.
Who is it Best For?
The gentle actions of malic acid make it suitable for a broad range of skin types and concerns. The following groups are most likely to benefit from adding malic acid into their skincare routine:
- Sensitive Skin: Malic acid is one of the milder AHAs so it’s often well-tolerated by those with sensitive or reactive skin.
- Dry Skin: Thanks to its humectant properties, malic acid can be useful for dehydrated skin.
- Skin of Colour: The gentler nature of malic acid makes it less likely to cause post inflammatory inflammation and may be better tolerated by people with darker skin tones.
- Beginners: If you’re new to acid exfoliants or actives in general then this is for you. Gentle exfoliants like malic, azelaic or mandelic acid are usually good place to start.
- Mature Skin: The combined mild exfoliating and humectant properties make malic acid ideal for ageing skin which tends to be more sensitive, thin and dry.
Risks & Side Effects
Even though malic acid is generally safe compared to most popular exfoliating acids, there are still some risks. The main ones being allergic reaction, irritation, dryness/peeling, purging and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. You can reduce these risks by:
- Patch Test First: To check for allergy or irritation, always do a patch test before applying it all over your face.
- Avoid Combination with Other Acids: To reduce the risk of irritation, avoid using multiple exfoliating acids simultaneously.
- Sun Protection: Malic acid increases sun sensitivity, so diligent sunscreen use is essential to prevent sunburn, hyperpigmentation and protect your skin.
How to Use Malic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
Although it is not as widely available as salicylic or glycolic acid, there are a growing number of skincare products that contain malic acid. There are three main ways you can introduce to malic acid into your skincare routine:
- Cleanser: This is gentle enough for everyday use as they tend ti contain low concentration of malic acid which you wash off. This is a good option for people short on time, are using lots of actives or who have very sensitive skin.
- Toner/Serum: Leave on malic acid toners or serums are probably the most common way to use this treatment. Usually you would use it no more than 2-3 times a week and is a good option if your skin tolerates actives and you’re able to fit an extra step in your routine.
- Mask/Peel: If you’re short on time during the week but want intensive exfoliation then a weekly or twice a month malic acid mask or at home peel might be best. These will have a higher concentration so are best for people who do not have sensitive or reactive skin.
Whilst malic acid is gentle, it is still important to use it correctly in order to maximise its benefits without causing irritation. Here are some our tips on how to introduce malic acid into your skincare routine:
- Start Slowly: When introducing any new active ingredient, especially an exfoliating acid, it’s important to start slowly. Use malic acid products tonce or twice a week initially, then gradually increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
- Choose the Right Product: Malic acid is available in various skincare products, from cleansers to serums to masks. Pick a product that is suitable for your skin sensitivity and that you are able to use consistently.
- Avoid Over-Exfoliation: Although malic acid is gentle, overusing it or combining it with other actives can lead to irritation. Use it in the mornings if you’re using retinoids at night. You can layer it with actives like Vitamin C, arbutin and Niacinamide but do so gently initially by starting it at a lower frequency. If you are using other exfoliating acids then use them on a different day to malic acid and aim to use exfoliants no more than 3 times a week in total.
- Follow Up with Moisturiser: Use a hydrating moisturiser to lock in moisture and support the skin barrier. This step will enhance malic acid’s hydrating effect and reduce the risk of dryness or irirtation.
- Always Use Sunscreen: Exfoliants like malic acid can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 everyday regardless o f the weather to protect your skin from UV damage.
Malic acid’s gentle yet effective exfoliating and hydrating benefits make it a versatile addition to many a skincare routine. It works across a variety of skin types and has minimal side effects, which makes it especially attractive for people who may not tolerate stronger acid exfoliants. That being said, you still need to use it safely and mindfully. With cautious and consistent use malic acid can help you achieve smoother, brighter and younger looking skin over time.
At City Skin Clinic, we are super passionate about personalised skincare. Through our online skin clinic, our doctors offer safe and effective treatments using ingredients like Tretinoin and Hydroquinone where appropriate. We treat a range of skin conditions including acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
