Skin ageing occurs due to a mixture of genetics, hormonal changes, inflammation and UV damage. These factors all shape how the skin looks and behaves over time. As collagen levels decline and cell turnover slows, fine lines, uneven tone and changes in texture become more noticeable. Historically, retinoids have been the most effective topical ingredients for tackling these signs of ageing. However, not everyone can tolerate them and many people need more help. Over the last few years, peptides have been increasingly marketed as a gentler and sometimes even better alternative to retinoids. As always, we try to separate the facts from myths. In this article, we compare peptides vs retinoids for skin ageing. We explore what they can and can’t do, how they differ and the best way to use them.
What are Peptides & How do They Work?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as signalling molecules within the skin. There may different types and each has its own role and effects on the skin. Cosmetic formulations usually include a blend of these. The main types of peptides used in skincare include:
- Signal: These peptides include Matrixyl and they mainly help support collagen production.
- Carrier: Copper peptides are the most common example of these and they help deliver trace minerals to the skin which help repair it.
- Enzyme-Inhibiting or Structural: These types of peptides can help reduce collagen breakdown, suppress excess melanin production, mimic natural proteins and support skin structure. In skincare, common examples include Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 and Argireline.
There’s evidence that peptides can help improve skin firmness, hydration, tone and barrier function over time. However, a lot of the evidence for peptides comes from small or manufacturer-led studies. They don’t have an extensive body of research behind them to support some of the more dramatic claims. However from what we know they appear to be sage and as part of a targeted skincare routine, they can offer subtle gradual results.
What are Retinoids & How Do They Work?
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives and remain one of the most effective topical treatments for signs of ageing. There’s decades of research showing that they work by increasing cell turnover and increase collagen production. This helps smooth fine lines and wrinkles as well as firms up the skin. Over-the-counter options like retinol and retinal need conversion into their active form within the skin. Prescription retinoids, tretinoin and adapalene, are already in the active and therefore work directly on the skin cells.
A key part of retinoid function is helping shed old skin cells more quickly. This improves skin texture, fades hyperpigmentation and brightens the complexion. They can also reduce clogged pores and help manage acne. Whilst there are many different types of retinoids, they all largely do the same thing. The difference between them is in how effective they are. The main drawback is irritation, dryness, redness, purging and peeling especially in the early stages of use.
How Do Peptides Compare vs Retinoids for Skin Ageing?
Peptides and retinoids are often pitted against one another, but the truth is they work in different ways. As such, like other retinoid alternatives, comparison tends to be a bit misleading. Additionally, although there are claims that peptides are gentler alternatives, this is not always the case as depends on the type of peptide. Here’s what we actually know about retinoids vs peptides for skincare:
- Potency: Retinoids offer far stronger and more predictable improvements in fine lines, hyperpigmentation and texture. Whilst the evidence behind them isn’t as extensive as retinoids, peptides aren’t useless either. They do deliver results for skin ageing but these appear more slowly and are usually more subtle.
- Action: Peptides support collagen production and help protect against damage by supporting the skin barrier function. There are however many different types of peptides which do different things. Retinoids all work in a similar way to actively increase skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production.
- Tolerance: In general, peptides are very well tolerated even in people with sensitive or reactive skin though cautious use is advisable. Retinoids often cause dryness or irritation initially and usually need gradual introduction.
- Evidence: Peptide research is promising but still limited and in its early stages. Retinoids like tretinoin have decades of clinical evidence supporting their role in treating skin ageing and acne.
- Uses: So far, peptides appear very helpful for skin hydration and barrier support whereas retinoids work more directly to exfoliate. They can both help boost collagen production. Peptides like argireline also have special biomimetic actions which can help temporarily smooth fine lines.
Who Can Benefit from Using Both Peptides & Retinoids?
Instead of pitting peptides vs retinoids, its best to think of these two skincare ingredients as partners. A better use of peptides is to complement retinoids rather than replace them. People with signs of ageing can benefit from using peptides and retinoids together as they can be helpful for:
- Fine lines and texture: Retinoids can help smooth skin texture, minimise appearance of pores and firm up the skin by increasing collagen production. Peptides can also help support collagen production and help improve skin hydration as well as resilience.
- Dullness or uneven tone: The exfoliating effect of retinoids increases removal of old and hyperpigmented skin cells to even out and brighten the skin. Some peptides can also help brighten the skin by improving hydration and newer ones may even help prevent excess melanin production.
- Dry or sensitive skin: Peptides can help hydrate the skin and make retinoid use more tolerable.
- Mature skin: Slower cell turnover, dehydration and reduced collagen production such as occurs in menopausal skin respond well to a combined approach.
How to Use Peptides & Retinoids in Skincare
Despite a lot of the noise out there, you can use peptides and retinoids safely together as long as the routine is simple and the skin is given time to adjust. Improvements depend on consistency and a mindful approach. Here are our top tips:
- Frequency: Start retinoids at a low strength and frequency like two to three evenings a week. Increase frequency gradually and only go up in strength if skin tolerates it. You can usually use peptides daily but worth starting on a lower frequency then building up if you have sensitive or reactive skin.
- Application: It is usually best to apply retinoids to clean completely dry skin in the evening then follow with a hydrating moisturiser to support the barrier. Peptides can be used in the evenings or mornings either in serum or cream form.
- Layering: When starting, it is best to use peptides in the morning or on evenings you’re not using retinoids. As skin adjusts to both, most people can usually layer both at night (retinoids first then peptides).
- Pairing: Avoid using retinoids and peptides on the same night as strong exfoliating acids to reduce irritation. Once you tolerate these, consider boosting their effects by adding an antioxidant like vitamin C in the mornings.
- Sensitive skin: Buffer retinoids by applying moisturiser first and do not layer retinoids with peptides until you’re confident your skin can tolerate both.
- Sun protection: Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30+ everyday regardless of the weather to protect against further skin ageing and because retinoids increase sun sensitivity.
- Maintenance: Once your skin has adjusted, both peptides and retinoids can be part of a long-term skincare routine supporting firmer and smoother skin.
Risks & Precautions
Both peptides and retinoids are generally well tolerated by most people when used appropriately and correctly. However, even withs sensible use there are some potential side effects which include:
- Irritation: Redness, dryness or flaking can occur when starting retinoids because they speed up cell turnover. Peptides can also cause this though less commonly. Reducing frequency, lowering strength or sandwiching with moisturiser can help overcome this.
- Purging: Temporary increase in acne breakouts may appear in the first few weeks of retinoid use as cell turnover increases. This does not usually seen with peptides though some people may experience breakouts if the formulation clogs their pores.
- Sensitivity: Retinoids can make the skin more reactive, especially if applied to broken, inflamed or freshly exfoliated areas. Some types of peptides can also have this effect but not as commonly.
- Photosensitivity: The exfoliating action of retinoids can make the skin more vulnerable to sunburn and hyperpigmentation. Peptides do not usually increase sun sensitivity though sun protection is necessary to support their the anti-ageing benefits.
- Allergy: Allergic reactions are uncommon with either ingredient but can still happen. Any persistent redness, itching or swelling should be reviewed by a clinician.
- Pregnancy: Retinoids must not be used during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Although peptides are usually considered safe, it is crucial to check individual formulations since there are so many different types and formulations.
Peptides and retinoids work through different mechanisms to improve the health and appearance of ageing skin. However superficial comparisons of retinoids vs peptides are unhelpful and tend to miss the real value which in many case comes from using them together. Retinoids remain one of the most effective topical options for softening fine lines, improving texture and evening skin tone. Peptides can also provide similar benefits in addition to supporting hydration and the skin barrier, They can also make retinoid use more comfortable. Using both together, can help provide a targeted anti-ageing skincare routine to address wrinkles, firmness and sun spots. As with all things skincare, progress needs patience, consistency and diligent sun protection.
At City Skin Clinic we believe that effective skincare is never one-size-fits-all. The best results come from treatment that fits your skin type, routine and goals. This is why we provide personalised custom skin treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as Tretinoin and Hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Start your online consultation today. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any concerns about your skin or treatment options.
