Combination Skin

Our skin type is genetically pre-determined and tends to stay the same throughout life. Combination skin presents a unique challenge. The central T-zone (forehead, nose and chin) behaves like oily skin, whilst the cheeks and outer face are normal or even dry. This dual behaviour means excess oil, clogged pores and shine in the middle of the face can coexist with flaking or tightness at the edges. Another characteristic of combination skin is that there is an association between this skin type and dandruff.

Like other skin types combination skin can be affected by internal and external factors. As with oily skin, oil production in combination skin can be affected by hormonal changes, diet or external factors. As with dry skin and normal skin, combination skin can be irritated and lose its hydration by harsh treatment. A common mistake is to treat the whole face as one type. Others include over-drying the T-zone which triggers rebound oiliness or over-moisturising thereby clogging pores. Another pitfall is using products that aren’t balanced so either too harsh, too occlusive or loaded with comedogenic ingredients.

“Combination skin can sometimes feel like having two skin types at once. The best skincare routine should balance both ends. You should aim to control oil in the T-zone, keep cheeks and the outer face hydrated and maintain a strong barrier overall.”

Best Skincare Routine for Combination Skin

The main aim of your skincare routine should be to restore balance to both the oily and dry portions of your face. This will hydrate and protect your skin. It will also allow you to regulate oil production without stripping the face of its natural oils yet prevents excess sebum from clogging up pores and causing outbreaks.  As for any skin type, your skincare routine should always pivot around cleansing, hydrating and protecting combination skin. Additionally, actives should focus on addressing skin concerns or goals like pores, wrinkles, uneven tone or dullness.

Top Skincare Ingredients for Combination Skincare

• Salicylic Acid & BHAs: Keeps pores clear and reduces blackheads and whiteheads especially in the T-zone.
• Azelaic Acid: Useful for redness, pigmentation and mild breakouts. Also a good alternative to salicylic acid if you’re pregnant, breastfeeding or allergic to it.
• Niacinamide (2–5%): Refines pores, regulates oil and strengthens the skin barrier.
• Retinoids: Retinol or prescription retinoids like Adapalene or Tretinoin regulate oil, smooth texture and help with both breakouts and fine lines.
• Vitamin C: Brightens dull areas and supports collagen helping brighten skin and protect against premature ageing.
• Hyaluronic Acid & Polyglutamic Acid: Provide weightless hydration for dry and oily zones.
• Ceramides: Strengthen skin barrier preventing over-dryness at the cheeks without clogging oily areas.
• Zinc PCA: Balances sebum and reduces the shiny look of enlarged pores.
• Mattifying Ingredients: Silica or starch powders and mineral sunscreen filters like zinc oxide can help reduce shine in the T-zone.

Daily Skincare Routine for Combination Skin

Mornings

1. Cleanser: Gentle foaming or gel cleanser. Avoid oil-stripping formulas.
2. Exfoliating Toner (2–3×/week): A salicylic or azelaic acid toner to keep pores clear and prevent congestion.
3. Targeted Actives: Vitamin C for brightness and photoprotection and/or niacinamide for pores and oil regulation.
4. Moisturiser: Use a light, oil-free gel/cream with humectants (e.g. hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid) ceramides and zinc PCA). Avoid heavy occlusives which can clog pores.
5. Sunscreen (SPF 30+): Lightweight, broad-spectrum light cream or lotion formulas. Mattifying bases, gels and filters like zinc oxide can help reduce shine in the T-zone.

Evenings

1. Double Cleanse (if wearing SPF or makeup): Start with a cleansing oil/balm then follow with your gentle foaming cleanser.
2. Actives: Retinol serum or if appropriate prescription retinoids like Adapalene or Tretinoin. Build up gradually (2–3×/week initially) and increase as tolerated to minimise purging.
3. Moisturiser: Use a slightly richer (but still non-comedogenic) cream than in the morning to restore balance and prevent trans-epidermal water loss overnight.

Weekly Skincare Routine

Once a week try the following two-step facial as part of your weekly skincare routine:

• Active Mask: Gentle enzyme or AHA/BHA exfoliating mask to refine texture and decongest.
• Reparative Mask: Hydrating mask with niacinamide, centella, ceramides or hyaluronic acid to alleviate dryness and reinforce the skin barrier.

Special Concerns in Combination Skin

• Enlarged Pores (T-zone): Regular use of BHA toners, niacinamide and retinoids can reduce their appearance.
• Shine Control: Mattifying sunscreens, blotting papers or silica finishing powders help balance oil during the day.
• Dryness on Cheeks: Lightweight humectants and ceramides support barrier, treat dryness and hydrate without heaviness.
• Sebaceous Filaments: Often mistaken for blackheads in the T-zone, sebaceous filaments are a normal part of skin but appear prominent in oily areas. Regular use of salicylic acid and retinoids help clear them.
• Scalp Oiliness/Flaking (Seborrhoeic Dermatitis): If you get dandruff or flaking scalp, use a medicated shampoo (e.g. ketoconazole or zinc pyrithione) 2–3×/week.

Professional Treatments

The above daily and weekly skincare routines should help you balance your combination skin and address specific concerns. If you want to further boost your results, consider the following advanced treatments:

• Prescription Skincare: Tretinoin and a number of other ingredients can help manage persistent congestion, oiliness, redness as well as concerns like skin ageing or hyperpigmentation.
• In-Office Procedures: Chemical Peels (e.g. salicylic or enzyme-based) and advanced facials can help with breakouts and congestion. A course of microneedling can also help tackle texture, scars and wrinkles.

Authored by:

Dr Amel Ibrahim
Aesthetic Doctor & Medical Director

BSC (HONS) MBBS MRCS PHD
Founder City Skin Clinic
Member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England
Associate Member of British Association of Body Sculpting GMC Registered - 7049611