The world of chemical exfoliation has long been dominated by salicylic acid when it comes to treating blemishes, oily skin and clogged pores. However, there’s a lesser-known member of the beta hydroxy acid (BHA) family that may offer a gentler but effective alternative. Trethocanic acid has been quietly amassing fans for its pore-clearing abilities but with less irritation. In this article, we’ll explore how trethocanic acid works, how it compares with other BHAs and the best way to use it in your skincare routine.
What is Trethocanic Acid?
Trethocanic acid is a BHA that was initially developed to lower cholesterol. It works similarly to salicylic acid by penetrating into the pores to dissolve excess sebum and exfoliate them from within. Like other BHAs, it’s oil-soluble, making it particularly useful for managing acne, blackheads and congested skin. Where sets Trethocanic acid apart is that it delivers exfoliation with a lower risk of irritation.
Although originally developed in the early 2000s, Trethocanic acid remained largely under the radar in skincare until recently. It is now starting to appear in formulations aimed at providing mild exfoliation with skin barrier support. Thus it offers a middle ground between effectiveness and tolerance. As such it could be a useful option for those needing pore-level exfoliation but unable to tolerate traditional BHAs. The key benefits of Trethocanic acid in skincare include:
- Minimal Irritation: Due to its gentle nature, Trethocanic acid minimises the risk of irritation, dryness and flakiness. This makes it suitable for everyday use and even for those with sensitive skin.
- Gentle Exfoliation: Trethocanic acid offers more controlled and gentle exfoliation. This makes it an excellent option for those new to chemical exfoliants or with reactive skin conditions like Rosacea.
- Reduced Pore Congestion: Like salicylic acid, Trethocanic acid penetrates pores to clear out impurities and reduce congestion. This helps reduce the appearance of sebaceous filaments, prevent blackheads and future breakouts.
- Smoother & Brighter Complexion: By gently removing dead skin cells, Trethocanic acid can help create a smoother texture. It may also help brighten the skin and even it out.
Comparison with Salicylic Acid
Whilst both fall under the BHA category, Trethocanic acid and salicylic acid differ in a number of ways. The main differences revolve around how they perform, who they suit and how they interact with the skin barrier. Key differences include:
- Molecular Structure & Mechanism: Both are oil-soluble and penetrate into pores to dissolve sebum and loosen dead skin cells. However, Trethocanic acid has a different structure that results in a milder exfoliating effect. This makes more useful for sensitive skin without sacrificing the key benefits of a BHA.
- Exfoliating Strength: Salicylic acid is known for its strong keratolytic action and is effective in treating moderate to severe acne. Trethocanic acid offers a gentler, lower-intensity exfoliation that supports smoother texture and clearer pores over time. Although it is less powerful, it has fewer risks of dryness or peeling.
- Tolerability: Salicylic acid can trigger irritation especially in dry or reactive skin types. Trethocanic acid is potentially a more barrier-friendly alternative. This may make it a better fit for those with sensitivity, mild rosacea or conditions like eczema where harsher acids are unsuitable.
- Anti-inflammatory Properties: There are a huge number of studies supporting salicylic acid’s anti-inflammatory properties. Although it seems like that Trethocanic acid also has this property, more research is necessary to conform this.
How to use Trethocanic acid in Your Skincare Routine
Although there are fewer products with Trethocanic acid compared with salicylic acid, it is slowly gaining traction. You may need to look at the ingredients list as often the product will just be labelled as having “BHAs” given its lack of name recognition. Here are our top tips for using it in your skincare routine:
- Choosing the Right Product: Look for leave-on formulations such as serums or toners. Gel or watery formulas tend to work best for combination or oily skin whilst hydrating lotion bases are better suited to dry or sensitive types.
- Frequency: Most skin types can tolerate Trethocanic acid several times a week or even daily. Start with 2–3 times per week and build up (or reduce) frequency based on how your skin responds.
- Pairing: Trethocanic acid works well alongside hydrating and barrier-supportive ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and ceramides. You can also use layer with strong actives like vitamin C with less risk of irritation than stronger BHAs. Avoid pairing with other exfoliants in the same step to minimise disruption to the skin barrier.
- Application: Apply after cleansing and before serums or moisturiser in the morning or evening. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 as even gentle acids can increase sensitivity to sundamage.
Side Effects & Precautions
Although Trethocanic acid shows great promise as a gentle BHA, it’s a less commonly used ingredient in skincare. As such there’s less data supporting its safety and efficacy which means you should proceed with caution. Here are few points to consider before adding it into your routine:
- Milder Exfoliation: Whilst this may be beneficial for sensitive skin, if you have normal skin you may prefer salicylic acid or a combination of AHAs and BHAs to get more intense exfoliation.
- Limited Research: As a newer ingredient, Trethocanic acid doesn’t have the extensive body of research that salicylic acid enjoys. However, as more skincare brands and dermatologists explore its potential, we can expect more data on its effectiveness and safety.
- Availability: Because it’s a relatively new ingredient, Trethocanic acid isn’t yet as widely available as salicylic acid. You may need to seek out specialty brands or newer retailers with a focus on innovative skincare ingredients.
If you do go ahead, remember that whilst it is gentler, it is not risk free. Trethocanic acid still has the same potential side effects as salicylic acid including flakiness, dryness, irritation and purging. Always to a patch test with any new skincare ingredient to check for allergy and start slowly then build up frequency as your skin tolerates it. As always if you have any existing skin or health conditions, reach out to a dermatologist your health provider before introducing any new skincare products.
Trethocanic acid might be the gentler BHA that sensitive skin types have been waiting for. With its ability to deeply penetrate and cleanse pores without the harshness of salicylic acid, it can provide exfoliating benefits to a wider range of skin types. However it is relatively new and is less common in skincare so only time will tell whether Trethocanic acid becomes a staple ingredient or remains a niche favourite in skincare.
At City Skin Clinic, we are super passionate about personalised skincare and beauty. We offer safe and effective custom skincare treatments using prescription-strength ingredients like Tretinoin and Hydroquinone where appropriate through our online skin clinic. Our doctors treat a range of conditions such as acne and scars, hyperpigmentation, melasma, skin ageing. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
