Lip lines (also called lipstick lines, smoker’s lines or perioral wrinkles) are a common sign of skin ageing. They are notoriously difficult to treat and, because of where they sit, they are very noticeable. This makes them a significant cosmetic concern for a lot of people. Below, we explain what causes lip lines and how to prevent them. We also review the skincare and professional treatments that can actually help soften and get rid of lip lines.
What are Lip Lines and How Do You Get Them?
Generally speaking, lip lines are the small vertical wrinkles that form above the upper lip. They can also appear below the lower lip as they progressively get worse. In the early stages these lines are dynamic, which means they only appear when you move your mouth. Left untreated, like any wrinkle, they become static and visible all the time. Because of the action of the orbicularis oris (the muscle that opens and closes your mouth) these lines are more pronounced when you pout or purse your lips. Over time they deepen. When combined with age-related lip thinning the overall effect is an aged appearance around the mouth.
Even though they are often called “smoker’s lines”, the main cause of lip lines is the natural ageing process. As we get older, the skin loses collagen and elastin. These are the proteins that give skin its structure and elasticity. This loss, combined with the repetitive movement of the muscles around the mouth from talking, eating and facial expressions, leads to lines and wrinkles. On top of this, there are several factors that increase the risk and severity of lip lines including:
- Sun damage: Chronic sun exposure is one of the leading causes of premature skin ageing, including lip lines. UV rays break down the collagen and elastin fibres that keep skin firm and flexible. Over time, repeated exposure depletes these supportive structures and the skin wrinkles and sags. The skin around the mouth and on the lips is particularly thin and delicate, which makes it more vulnerable to this damage.
- Smoking: The repetitive puckering action of smoking, combined with the toxins in cigarettes, contributes significantly to lip lines. Nicotine narrows the blood vessels in the outer layers of the skin, which impairs blood flow and deprives the skin of the oxygen and nutrients it needs to repair itself. On top of this, many of the thousands of chemicals in cigarette smoke damage collagen and elastin directly, causing the skin to sag and wrinkle prematurely. Persistent puckering from playing certain musical instruments or styles of singing can also cause lip lines, but not to the same extent as smoking.
- Genetics: Your genes play a significant role in how your skin ages. Some people are predisposed to develop wrinkles, including lip lines, at an earlier age. If your parents or grandparents had prominent lines around the mouth, you may be more likely to develop them too. Whilst you cannot change your genetic makeup, you can address the other risk factors and look after your skin to slow the process down.
How Do You Prevent Lip Lines?
When it comes to any type of skin ageing, prevention is far easier than cure. Lip wrinkles are no different. As such, the best way to prevent lip lines is to look after your skin and lead a healthy lifestyle. The most effective preventative measures include:
- Sun protection: Protecting your skin from UV is the single most important step. Wear a lip balm with SPF, use a daily facial sunscreen (even in winter and on cloudy days) and add a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses on sunny days.
- Healthy diet and hydration: A diet rich in fruit, vegetables, lean protein and healthy fats provides the nutrients skin needs. Staying hydrated keeps the skin supple and helps prevent lip lines.
- Avoid smoking: Avoid actively smoking and exposure to secondhand smoke. Both drive premature ageing and the formation of lip lines.
- Skincare: Retinoids boost collagen production to prevent lines forming. Gentle exfoliation with things like lactic acid around the mouth can also remove dead cells and soften fine lines. Moisturisers and lip balms containing hyaluronic acid, ceramides and vitamins A, C and E hydrate the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkling.
How Do You Get Rid of Lip Lines?
There are several effective treatments for lip lines, and you often need to use more than one to get rid of them properly. The options range from skincare through to professional skin treatments and injectables. The right approach depends on the severity of your lip lines, overall health, goals, lifestyle and condition of your skin. Whatever you choose, you will need to keep up with the preventative measures above to maintain your results.
Skincare is the place to start, whatever the severity of your lip lines. A good skincare routine is enough on its own to treat mild lines and prevent new ones forming. Even with moderate to severe lines, skincare improves your baseline so that other treatments work better, and it helps maintain those results afterwards. These are the main skincare ingredients that help get rid of lip lines:
- Retinoids: Retinol and prescription retinoids like tretinoin are derivatives of vitamin A and one of the most important tools against wrinkles, lip lines included. This is because collagen gives the skin its structure and elasticity, and its production falls naturally as we age. This is what leads to lines and wrinkles. Retinoids treat lip lines primarily by stimulating collagen production, restoring some of that lost firmness and volume. They also increase cellular turnover, which exfoliates dead skin cells, smooths the surface and helps fade both fine lines and hyperpigmentation around the lips. With consistent use, retinoids improve the overall texture and quality of the skin across the face and perioral area. Tretinoin is the best studied and most effective retinoid. It is available by prescription only in the UK.
- Exfoliating acids: This category contains a diverse group of acids that can suit almost every skin type and concern. They divide mainly into alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic acid, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid. These acids dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells together, so old damaged cells shed more quickly and reveal the fresher skin beneath. Regular use smooths the appearance of lines, improves texture and boosts radiance. Like retinoids, exfoliating acids also stimulate collagen production, and this dual action helps minimise wrinkles including the lines around the lips.
- Antioxidants: UV, pollution and tobacco smoke all generate free radicals. By neutralising them, antioxidants stop them breaking down collagen and elastin, which helps keep lip lines at bay. Agents like vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid, along with compounds like resveratrol and green tea extract, are a key defence against free radicals. They neutralise these unstable molecules before they can cause cellular damage and skin ageing. Vitamin C in particular also boosts collagen production directly, improving the skin’s firmness and suppleness. This both softens existing lip lines and helps prevent new ones.
- Moisturisers: Lines and wrinkles are most apparent on dry skin, so hydrating and moisturising improves their appearance. Moisturising also protects and repairs the skin barrier, which reduces redness and lets you use actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids without irritation. Humectant ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and urea draw water to the surface of the skin and increase hydration. This has a plumping effect that helps fill in and smooth lip lines. Emollient ingredients like squalane, ceramides and plant oils fill in small gaps and irregularities in the skin’s surface. They also lock in moisture, plump the skin and improve elasticity. Lastly, occlusive compounds like beeswax, lanolin and mineral and plant oils form a physical barrier that locks in moisture and prevents water loss. This plumps the delicate skin around the lips and softens existing lines.
The next step up after skincare is professional skin treatments and injectables. These can treat moderate to severe lip lines. However, you will need to see a qualified, experienced medical practitioner to work out whether these are appropriate for you and which will work best. The main professional treatments that can help smooth, fill and get rid of lip lines include:
- Microneedling: Minimally invasive treatments like microneedling and RF microneedling can help with lines and wrinkles. Microneedling creates tiny controlled punctures in the skin. These micro-injuries trigger the body’s natural healing response, which stimulates collagen and elastin production. The skin becomes firmer and more elastic, and lip lines soften. RF microneedling adds radiofrequency energy delivered into the deeper layers of skin, and this targeted heat boosts collagen and elastin further to help fill lip lines.
- Chemical peels: All peels work by removing the outermost layers of skin, most commonly using an acid solution. This increases skin turnover, reveals fresh new skin and boosts collagen and elastin production. It is an effective treatment for lip lines because it improves texture and elasticity and smooths fine lines. There are many types of peel (glycolic, salicylic and trichloroacetic acid among others) at different strengths. The type and concentration determine how much exfoliation is achieved. Lighter peels gently refresh the surface and reduce fine lip lines, whilst deeper peels penetrate further to address more pronounced wrinkles. Your practitioner will select the best peel for your skin as a careful approach is necessary, especially with skin of colour where peels can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Botox and dermal fillers: Injectables like Botox and dermal fillers are two popular options for lip lines. Botox temporarily relaxes muscles and smooths dynamic wrinkles. It can eliminate lip lines that haven’t set in and soften ingrained ones. The results are temporary, lasting around 3 to 4 months on average. Dermal fillers are gel-like substances injected under the skin to restore volume and fill wrinkles. Only hyaluronic acid fillers should be used on the face because they can be dissolved if there is a problem. Unlike Botox, hyaluronic acid filler can treat deep, ingrained wrinkles and support the lip border for a more refreshed perioral area. The results are immediate and can last from 6 to 24 months or more depending on the filler. Like Botox, it is minimally invasive but needs skilled administration by a medical practitioner. The two are often combined to target more advanced lip lines.
- Skin boosters: Injectable hyaluronic acid skin boosters like Profhilo can boost collagen and elastin production whilst hydrating, tightening and plumping the skin. This makes them useful for filling lip lines and preventing further wrinkling. A typical course is two sessions a month apart, with final results around six weeks after the second session and maintenance every six to eight months. Skin boosters work on the same principle as microneedling and prescription retinoids like tretinoin. They all stimulate the skin to repair itself.
- Laser: Resurfacing lasers can help smooth and fill lip lines by removing the outer layer of skin and stimulating collagen production. Lasers use focused light to remove damaged skin and encourage new healthy cells. Depending on the type of laser and severity of your lip lines, you can get dramatic long-lasting results. The options include ablative, non-ablative and fractional lasers. You must see a skilled medical provider. They will determine the safest and most effective laser and protocol for your lip lines, skin type and overall health. They can also advise on the number of treatments you will likely need and downtime involved.
Lip lines are a common concern that responds well to a combination of prevention and treatment. The best approach depends on the severity of your lines, your skin health, your goals and your lifestyle. It is always worth consulting a skin specialist to find the right one for you. Whichever treatment you choose, keep up the preventative steps above and a good anti-ageing skincare routine. This softens existing lip lines, prevents new ones forming and stops the ones you have from getting worse.
At City Skin Clinic, we are passionate about personalised skincare. Our online skin clinic offers safe and effective custom anti-ageing skincare treatments using ingredients like tretinoin, hydroquinone, azelaic acid, niacinamide and tranexamic acid where appropriate. Our doctors treat acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma, rosacea and skin ageing, including the fine lines and hyperpigmentation around the mouth. To start your personalised skincare plan, book a virtual video consultation or use our online consultation form. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
