Acne remains one of the most common skin concerns. Yet, despite the number of treatments available, it is often difficult to manage. Over the counter and prescription retinoids are widely considered the cornerstone of acne care. This is because they help prevent clogged pores, reduce inflammation, smooth texture and fade hyperpigmentation. Together these actions not only help reduce breakouts but also improve post acne marks and scars. However, not everyone can tolerate or use retinoids. The good news is that you can still treat acne without retinoids. In this article, we explore the best retinoid alternatives and how to build a retinoid-free acne skincare routine.
What Causes Acne?
Simply put, acne develops when pores become clogged and inflamed. This usually starts with a build-up of oil and debris inside the pore, which forms a microcomedone. This is the earliest stage of acne. As oil production increases, it causes overgrowth of normal bacteria and the skin becomes more reactive. The microcomedones enlarge and can progress into whiteheads, blackheads or inflamed spots. Hormonal fluctuations, stress, friction, certain skincare or hair products and changes in weather can all trigger or worsen this process. This is because these factors affect oil production, pore clearance, skin barrier integrity and the balance of the microbiome. All this determine whether a pore becomes clogged and inflamed. Understanding these triggers and pathway is important because any treatment needs to target at least one part of this cycle to improve breakouts.
Retinoids help treat acne by normalising how skin cells shed inside the follicle. This prevents microcomedones from forming and speeds up the removal of existing ones. Prescription topical retinoids like tretinoin can also reduce inflammation whilst oral isotretinoin also reduces oil production. This is why they are considered a core treatment for breakouts and long-term acne control.
Why Can’t Some People Use Retinoids?
Whilst retinoids help many people with acne, they are not suitable for everyone. This is because they can cause side effects such as purging, dryness, peeling, irritation and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This makes them harder to tolerate for people with sensitive skin or reactive conditions like eczema or rosacea as well as those with an impaired skin barrier. If the usual approach of lower strength, reduce frequency and barrier support fail then an alternative way to treat ace without retinoids becomes necessary. Furthermore, retinoids are not safe for use during pregnancy, breastfeeding and people with allergies to them. Even in people who do not have these issues with tolerance, some still prefer to avoid the retinoids due to the initial adjustment period that can sometimes occur with them.
Best Alternatives to Treat Acne Without Retinoids
Although retinoids are an important and effective treatment approach for acne, there are some alternatives for those who can’t use them. The main ingredients that that can help treat acne without retinoids include:
- Benzoyl peroxide: This is one of the most effective treatments for inflammatory acne. It reduces inflammation and kills the bacteria that cause breakouts. You can find it in cleansers or leave-on gels. Benzoyl peroxide can however be drying so ensure that you introduce it gradually.
- Salicylic acid: A fat soluble exfoliating acid, this helps to clear clogged pores and reduce surface oil. It is particularly helpful for blackheads, whiteheads and congestion. It can be used as a cleanser, toner or serum depending on your skin’s tolerance.
- Azelaic acid: This exfoliant is an excellent option for sensitive or reactive skin. It helps reduce redness, inflammation and hyperpigmentation whilst also offering mild pore clearing effects.
- Sulfur: The main benefit of this ingredient are is has mild exfoliating and anti-inflammatory effects. It can be useful for oily or combination skin types.
- Niacinamide: This is not a primary acne treatment on its own. However, niacinamide complements other products by supporting the barrier, calming inflammation, shrinking pores and helping regulate oil production.
- Hypochlorous acid: A gentle ingredient that can help reduce inflammation. It can support the skin during flare ups especially when the barrier is compromised or the skin is too sensitive for stronger actives.
- Zinc: This mineral has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and can help calm redness and mild breakouts. It is often included in formulations for acne-prone skin to support barrier function and reduce irritation.
- Prescription medicines: Treatments like antibiotics, winlevi or spironolactone can help treat some cases of acne without the need for retinoids.
- Light and Laser treatments: LED therapy or certain laser treatments can support acne care by reducing inflammation or helping clear mild congestion. These are usually used alongside topical treatments rather than as stand-alone therapies.
- Chemical peels: In-clinic treatments such as salicylic or Jessner peels can provide a deeper exfoliating effect that helps clear pores and improve overall skin quality.
How to Build a Retinoid-Free Acne Routine
Although acne is a complex condition, it doesn’t mean your skincare has to be. A targeted and simple skincare routine often works best. As long as you choose the ingredients that support your skin’s needs and target the acne pathways. Below are our top tips for building skincare routine to treat acne without retinoids:
- Mornings: Cleanse with a gentle product ideally containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide if you’re experiencing a flare-up. Apply a toner containing niacinamide or azelaic acid to help reduce redness and support the barrier. Use a light moisturiser that suits your skin type and finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30. Zinc oxide and niacinamide are good ingredients to look for in moisturisers and SPF.
- Evenings: Cleanse thoroughly with a hydrating product to remove SPF, oil and makeup. This is a good time to use an exfoliating product like salicylic acid as a leave on toner 3-4 times a week. Follow with a moisturiser containing centella, ceramides or fatty acids to support the skin while it repairs overnight.
- Spot treatments: Benzoyl peroxide creams or gels work well as a spot treatment for fresh breakouts. As does a hypochlorous acid spray on freshly cleansed skin.
- Weekly additions: Once or twice a week, a clay or sulfur mask can help reduce surface oil and congestion. At home LED devices with blue light can also offer anti-bacterial actions.
The key to acne care is to focus on consistency. Acne improves gradually over weeks, not days. A retinoid-free routine can still work extremely well when used consistently and adjusted to your skin’s tolerance. Also, remember that acne-prone skin needs an intelligent and gentle approach. Try to avoid harsh scrubs, over-washing, excessive exfoliation, heavy or fragranced skincare, sleeping in makeup or using too many actives at once. These habits can disrupt the barrier and worsen congestion or sensitivity.
Lifestyle & When to Seek Medical Help
Certain changes can help support your skin while you treat it. Managing stress, improving sleep and keeping a balanced diet may reduce flare ups for some people. Reducing high glycaemic foods or excess dairy may be helpful for a subset of people. Lastly, avoid making things worse. Try to keep hair clean and away from the face, avoid tight head wear and whatever you do, don’t pick at spots! These can all worsen breakouts by spreading bacteria and cause dark marks as well as scarring.
If your acne persists, is severe, causes scars or does not respond after 8-12 weeks of a structured over-the-counter routine, then you may need medical treatment. Prescription skincare, antibiotics, hormonal therapy or oral retinoids may be necessary.
Retinoids are effective, but they are not for everyone and there are other ways to treat acne without them. Many people achieve meaningful improvement with a retinoid-free routine built around anti-inflammatory, pore-clearing and barrier-supporting ingredients. The most important thing is to choose treatments that your skin can tolerate consistently and giving them time to work. If you feel unsure about the best approach or are not seeing progress, then consider seeking professional help.
At City Skin clinic, we are fanatical about personalised skincare. Our virtual skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skin treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as Tretinoin, Spironolactone, Azelaic acid and Hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Start your online consultation today. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
