Oily Skin

Our skin type is genetically pre-determined and tends to stay the same throughout life. Oily skin is caused by more active oil glands and higher sebum production. Whilst sebum protects and hydrates the skin, excess can enlarge and clog pores, leading to whiteheads, blackheads and acne breakouts. A common mistake is relying on harsh, drying products; they feel satisfying at first but strip the barrier and trigger even more oil production. Another pitfall is using comedogenic ingredients in moisturisers or make-up, which can worsen congestion.

“Oily skin is characterised by excessive production of sebum. This type of skin tends to be thicker, more prone to breakouts and the pores are usually larger. On the plus side, oily skin tends to show the signs of ageing less readily. The aim of your skincare routine should be to control oil without stripping your skin, keep pores clear and maintain a strong barrier so skin looks balanced rather than shiny.”

The Best Skincare Routine for Oily Skin

The solution is to treat oily skin with care and to ensure that you maintain its hydration. This can be done by using light-weight formulas. It’s also important to avoid harsh or drying ingredients and opt for hydrating skincare products. To put together the best oily skin routine, identify your skin concerns as well as goals. For instance, you may have oily skin and your major concern is large pores, breakouts or hyperpigmentation whilst your goal is to achieve bright dewy-looking skin. This is important because the best skincare routine for oily offers the essentials for a clearer and healthier looking complexion. The structure oily skincare routine always remains the same but the product selection can be adapted to target your skin concerns and goals.

Top Skincare Ingredients for Oily Skin

• Salicylic Acid/Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHA): Oil-soluble these exfoliants clear inside pores and reduce blackheads/whiteheads.
• Niacinamide (2-10%): Helps regulate sebum, refines the look of pores and evens out skin tone.
• Azelaic acid (5%+): Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and keratolytic actions. This is useful for congestion, redness and post-blemish marks.
• Vitamin C: L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives provide antioxidant support and protect the skin from free radical damage. Brightens skin and helps with uneven tone.
• Retinoids: Retinol and prescription retinoids like Adapalene and Tretinoin increase cell turnover. They can help smooth texture, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and clear up breakouts. They also fade hyperpigmentation and brighten the skin.
• Benzoyl Peroxide: this is a great spot treatment if you’re having breakouts. It kills the acne-causing bacteria (P.acnes) and reduces inflammation.
• Moisturisers: Ingredients like Hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid and lightweight ceramides provide non-greasy hydration. Zinc PCA also helps reduce surface oil and the look of enlarged pores. Opt for oil-free, gel or light cream formulas
• Mattifying Ingredients: Silica, mattifying polymers and micro-fine starches can help reduce shine. As can mineral sunscreen filters like zinc oxide.

Tip: Always patch test actives and introduce one at a time. If you suffer from frequent or cystic breakouts, speak to a clinician about prescription options.

Daily Skincare Routine for Oily Skin

Mornings

1. Cleanser: Gentle foaming or gel cleanser. Avoid overdoing it as cleansing more than twice daily can cause rebound oil production and irritation.
2. Exfoliating Toner (Optional, 3-5x/week): Opt for salicylic or azelaic acid to keep pores clear.
3. Spot Treatment (Optional): Apply a Benzoyl peroxide gel or lotion to breakouts to help clear them faster.
4. Targeted Actives: Serum containing vitamin C for brightness and photoprotection support. Consider niacinamide if large pores or uneven skin tone are your main concern.
5. Moisturiser: Light, oil-free gel or cream with zinc PCA for oil regulation and hyaluronic or polyglutamic acid for hydration. If you don’t have time for a separate active product, use a moisturiser that also contains vitamin C and niacinamide.
6. Sunscreen (SPF 30+ broad-spectrum): Choose matte or gel finishes. Look for silica or starch-based mattifiers for shine control.

Evenings

1. Double Cleanse (if wearing SPF/make-up): Cleansing balm/oil then your gentle foaming cleanser.
2. Actives: Retinol or, if appropriate, prescription retinoids like Tretinoin or Adapalene. Start 2–3×/week and build up frequency. If irritation occurs, sandwich retinoid with your moisturiser.
3. Moisturiser: Go for something slightly richer than your morning moisturiser to support the skin barrier.

Weekly Skincare Routine for Oily Skin

Once a week try this two-step facial to accelerate your skincare routine:

• Active Mask: Enzyme or exfoliating acid (AHA/BHA/PHA) mask to smooth texture and decongest.
• Reparative Mask: Hydrating/soothing mask with niacinamide, panthenol, centella, propolis or hyaluronic acid to calm and rebalance.

Special Concerns in Oily Skin

• Sebaceous Filaments: These are normal oil-lining structures that are often mistaken for blackheads. Consistent BHA use and retinoids can help regulate oil production and minimise their appearance.
• Visible Pores: BHA toners, retinoids and niacinamide can help regulate oil, clear pores and reduce their size.
• Shine: Wear a mattifying SPF and use blotting papers or a silica-based finishing powder throughout the day for extra control.
• Blackheads/Whiteheads: Regular BHA or azelaic acid and retinoids will help keep pores clear. Benzoyl peroxide targeted spot treatment helps treat inflammatory pimples.
• Scalp Oiliness/Flaking (Seborrhoeic Dermatitis): This can transfer onto the face and cause redness, blemishes and flaky patches. If your T-zone is oily and you have dandruff, use a medicated shampoo 2–3×/week (e.g. ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione or selenium sulphide). Then leave it on the scalp for 3–5 minutes before rinsing. See your GP if persists.

Professional Treatments

The above skincare routine should take good care of your skin and with time reduce breakouts, blemishes and pore size. If you want to boost your results, consider:

• Prescription Skincare: Adapalene and Tretinoin either alone or in combination with other targeted ingredients can help if breakouts, hyperpigmentation or texture remain problematic.
• In-Office Procedures: Chemical peels (e.g. salicylic, enzyme or Jessner’s) and laser can help target oil, breakouts, texture and hyperpigmentation. Microneedling is also useful if scars and texture are a key concern. These often require a course of treatment.

Safety: Professional treatments require assessment to ensure suitability. This is especially if you’re pregnant, breastfeeding, using multiple actives or are on acne medication like roaccutane (isotretinoin).

Skincare Recommendations for Oily Skin

Thankfully, there is a huge choice in terms of skincare for oily skin. At the moment we are very fond of the below skincare products for oily skin:

Cleansers

• Morning & Evening: CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser, Korres Greek Yoghurt Foaming wash, La Roche-Posay Effaclar Gel or Cetaphil DERMACONTROL Oil Control Foam Wash.
• Evening First cleanse: DHC Deep Cleansing Oil or a light balm to remove makeup or SPF then your foaming wash.

Exfoliating Toners

• Salicylic Acid/BHA: Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid, Farmacy Deep Sweep 2% BHA Toner and COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid.
• Azelaic acid: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster or The Inkey List SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Serum.

Spot Treatments

Neutrogena Rapid Clear Stubborn Acne Spot Treatment Gel and Acnecide 5% Gel both contain 5% Benzoyl Peroxide.

Actives

• Vitamin C: Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, Sunday Riley CEO, Paula’s Choice C15 Booster or Obagi Professional C-Serum.
• Niacinamide: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum and The Inkey List Niacinamide. Usually, 2–5% is enough as 10% may irritate some.
• Retinoid: Medik8 Retinol 3 TR and CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum for over the counter options or prescription retinoid like Tretinoin cream.

Moisturisers 

• Morning: La Roche Posay Effaclar or Toleriane Double Repair Matte, VERSED SKIN Dew Point Gel Cream, Obagi Hydrate or Typology Zinc PCA.
• Evening: The Ordinary Natural Moisturising Factors + HA, Illiyoon Ceramide Ato or Vanicream Moisturising Cream

Sunscreens (Matte/Lightweight)

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics (SPF50+ PA++++), CeraVe Hydrating Mineral Sunscreen and Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen.

Masks

• Active: Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial and The Ordinary Peeling Solution and Bliss Pumpkin Powerhouse Resurfacing & Exfoliating Enzyme Face Mask.
• Reparative: Youth to the People Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Overnight Face Mask, Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Overnight Hydrating Face Mask, Greek Yoghurt Probiotic Superdose Face Mask and Aesop Blue Chamomile Facial Masque.

Authored by:

Dr Amel Ibrahim
Aesthetic Doctor & Medical Director

BSC (HONS) MBBS MRCS PHD
Founder City Skin Clinic
Member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England
Associate Member of British Association of Body Sculpting GMC Registered - 7049611