Retinoids are amongst the most effective topical treatments in dermatology. They can benefit the skin in a number of ways and are particularly good for improving texture, evening out skin tone, tackling anti-ageing and clearing acne breakouts. However, with their strength comes a few risks and side effects. Retinoids can also cause dryness, flaking and irritation. This can even lead to skin barrier damage if you don’t properly support the skin whilst using them. In this article, we explore how retinoids can affect the skin barrier and how to repair as well as protect it whilst using them.
What is the Skin Barrier?
The skin barrier, or stratum corneum if you want to be fancy, is the outermost layer of the top layer of the skin (the epidermis). It is made up of tightly packed cells called corneocytes which are embedded in a matrix containing lipids like ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Together, these components create a protective layer that limits water loss and blocks entry of irritants, allergens and microbes. In short, your barrier is you’re skin’s first line of defence against the outside world. When something injures or disrupts this barrier, small cracks form between the cells and moisture escapes more easily. The skin then becomes dry, tight and prone to redness, stinging or flaking.
How do Retinoids Affect the Skin Barrier?
Retinoids work by speeding up cell turnover and normalising how new skin cells develop and move to the surface. In the first few weeks of use, this rapid renewal can disrupt the organisation of the stratum corneum (aka the skin barrier). The cells at the surface may shed faster than the skin is able to produce new lipids to fill the spaces between them. This leads to leakiness of the skin barrier which causes more transepidermal water loss than usual. As a result, the skin feels dry, tight or slightly sore. It may also appear red or flaky. If severe, this leakiness can also lead to irritation as the skin barrier is less able to protect against things like pollution or microbes.
Thankfully, these effects are usually short lived and resolve as the skin adjusts to retinoid use. However, they can be more severe and persistent in people with dry, eczema-prone or rosacea-prone skin. Supporting the skin barrier whilst using retinoids can help protect it against damage and repair damage.
Signs Your Skin Barrier Needs Help
When the skin barrier is injured or damaged, it can no longer retain moisture or protect against irritants in the same way. The result is increased sensitivity, dryness and discomfort. It’s important to understand the early warning signs in order to prevent further compromise and heal the skin. Below are some of the most common signs that your skin barrier needs help:
- Tightness or dryness after cleansing: If skin feels stretched, rough or papery within minutes of washing, then it is likely due to excess water loss and dryness.
- Stinging or burning from simple products: Tingling or discomfort after applying a mild moisturiser or hydrating serum suggests that the protective layer is weakened and less protective of the the nerves in the skin.
- Flaking or peeling: Small, dry patches or visible scales usually mean that the cells are shedding faster than the new layers of the skin barrier are being regenerated.
- Redness & warmth: Widespread redness or heat often indicate inflammation.
- Slower healing or higher sensitivity: If the skin remains reactive for several days or new products sting immediately, it may mean that the skin barrier is injured.
If these signs develop, then you should stop your retinoid and any actives to try and focus on helping repair your skin barrier. During this period, focus on gentle cleansing, hydration and barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. If you experience ongoing irritation, skin cracking, swelling or pain then urgently seek medical help.
Skincare Tips to Protect & Repair the Skin Barrier Repair Whilst on Retinoids
Retinoids and actives generally work best when the skin barrier is intact. You can easily achieve this with a simple and thoughtful skincare routine. Here are our top tips to help protect and repair your skin barrier whilst using retinoids:
- Start right: First of all not all the term retinoids covers a wide range of compounds in skincare. This can include over the counter forms like retinol, retinal and prescription treatments like adapalene or tretinoin. Start by choosing the right retinoid for your skin. The general principal is to start low and go slow. So begin with a low strength and frequency of two or three times per week then gradually build up as your skin tolerates. Remember that a higher strength isn’t necessarily better. Using a lower strength regularly is usually more effective than a higher strength less frequently.
- Mornings: Cleanse your skin with lukewarm water and a gentle hydrating cleanser. Follow with a hydrating serum and moisturiser. Look for products containing hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and glycerin as well as barrier supporting compounds like ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher as retinoids make the skin more sensitive to the sun. If your skin is sensitive or prone to hyperpigmentation then consider sunscreens containing zinc oxide or iron oxide respectively.
- Retinoid nights: use a gentle cleanser and if you are prone to irritation, apply a thin layer of hydrating serum, essence or moisturiser first to buffer the retinoid. Apply a small amount of your retinoid cream or serum and finish with a rich moisturiser or occlusive like vaseline to seal in hydration.
- Recovery nights: If you are starting on retinoids then you will likely introduce it gently and alternate with “off nights”. During this time don’t be tempted to use another active. Instead focus on barrier protection and repair to allow your skin to adjust to increasing retinoid use. Use a hydrating cleanser and serum followed by a rich moisturiser or face mask.
Environmental changes can also have a strong effect on how the skin tolerates retinoids. Cold or dry air and indoor heating increase water loss, whereas heat and humidity can trigger shine or congestion. Adjusting your routine to seasonal or lifestyle factors helps maintain balance and comfort. In winter or dry conditions, choose richer moisturisers, reduce shower length and consider using a humidifier. During warmer months or in humid environments, lighter emulsions and hydrating serums to maintain moisture without clogging pores.
Best & Worst Ingredients for the Skin Barrier
When you start retinoids, the focus should be on products that strengthen and replenish the barrier. These keep moisture in, calm inflammation and help the skin adapt. At the same time, it is important to avoid ingredients that strip or over-stimulate the skin until you develop tolerance. Once the barrier feels stable, stronger actives can be added back gradually. Here are the best skincare ingredients to look for that while help support and repair your skin barrier whilst on retinoids:
- Lipids: Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are the essential lipids that form the skin’s protective matrix. They fill the spaces between cells and reduce water loss. Using a moisturiser that contains all three helps restore skin suppleness and comfort.
- Humectants: Ingredients like glycerin, polyglutamic and hyaluronic acid draw water into the outer layers of the skin and relieve tightness. They are particularly useful after cleansing or in drier climates. Applying a hydrating serum with these ingredients after cleansing can help maintains hydration and prevents flaking.
- Niacinamide: This supports skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation. It pairs well with retinoids and enhances their overall effect on skin texture and clarity.
- Soothers: Panthenol, allantoin, centella and colloidal oat extract can all help calm mild inflammation and promote skin barrier repair whilst on retinoids.
In contrast, there are a number of skincare ingredients that you should be careful with using whilst introducing retinoids. The below actives can cause increase the chance of skin barrier damage if not used correctly:
- Exfoliating acids: Strong products like AHAs and BHAs accelerate exfoliation and can worsen dryness or peeling when combined with retinoids. Use these sparingly when you’re on retinoids (e.g. 2-3 times a week in the mornings). When you’re starting retinoids, it is best to initially use them on non retinoid days.If you have sensitive skin, it may be best to wait until the skin adjusts before introducing exfoliating acids.
- Benzoyl peroxide: This may form a key part of acne treatment plans but can cause excessive irritation if initially used alongside retinoids. Try to use it at a separate time of the day or on alternate nights until tolerance improves.
- Irritants: Physical scrubs, alcohol-based toners, fragrance and essential oils can all irrit and inflame sensitive or reactive skin. This can damage an already fragile skin barrier and make it even less tolerant of retinoids. Its generally best to avoid these ingredients entirely or at the very least until your skin adjusts to retinoid use.
A thoughtful approach routine can allow you to use retinoids whilst helping protect and repair the skin barrier. This is the easiest and quickest way to get results from retinoids with minimal dryness, purging or irritation. With patience and consistency, most people can use retinoids long term while maintaining a strong, resilient barrier. If however you experience severe or persistent irritation or suffer from an inflammatory skin condition, its best to seek medical help first to ease you into your skincare journey.
We are super passionate about personalised skincare. Our virtual skin clinic offers safe and effective custom skin treatments. Where appropriate our doctors use ingredients such as Tretinoin and Hydroquinone to treat skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma and skin ageing. Start your online consultation today. The journey towards great skin starts here.
This article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical provider for any medical concerns or questions you might have.
